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  1. #1
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    Default Automated Router table

    Over 8 months since a serious accident and I’ve finally able to make the new Router table top I was about to start back then. This thread carries on from here:

    Yet another Router table build.

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    The Fence travels back past rear edge of table top allowing the top to be lifted off exposing all mechanical and electronic components, the fence does not need to be screwed down and cannot move once in place. There is no physical connection between the Table top bottom and the cabinet components below. The fence is fully automated and self supporting. Everything can be run, tested adjusted and worked on with the top off.


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  3. #2
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    Default Insert rings

    In this design the insert rings control both the fence and router bit dust extraction flow.

    As before, the area behind the bit is completely exposed and combined with high speed air flow past the bit from the combined fence - bit intake and below table air from the intake port flowing between the underside of the table and the router top deflecting plate into a 150mm high mounted extraction port giving absolute 100% dust extraction including all invisible dust above the table – not guessed but actually measured.

    The router collet and Cutter sit inside a ducted air path.
    Large open (full width) dados produce no dust or chip blowout.

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  4. #3
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    Default

    Bullet Resistant Polycarbonate sheet serves two purposes:

    1 : Redirects the router motor exhaust fan to stop it fighting both intake paths, this high speed fan output is a major cause of dust and chips being blown around the router dust extraction housing.

    2: It connects to the previously shown air intake and creates a smooth air path across the underside of the table top that amplifies the venture effect across the cutter / table opening.

    The image below is an optical illusion in that the screw drive rod is actually below the intake path, the port at the rear is a 150mm extraction port.



    Below: Router motor lift.

    The Digital scale slide is towards the bottom middle of the photo, it sends router (bit height) positional data back to the controller.

    The Ball and Nut screw-drive and the stepper motor that drives it just visible projecting through the bottom of the cabinet.
    This is also an intake path for the router motor cooling air. Also shown are the top and bottom limit micro switches.



    Better picture of the stepper motor and screw-drive ball-nut router lift drive.



    BELOW:

    Linear Bearing rails either side and screw drive at the front completes the router lift. Again nothing hangs off the table top or connects to the table top.

    The micro switch near the left side rail is the Bit change position sensor. To change the bit you select "bit change" from the Touch screen menu and the
    router is automatically raised to the correct position which engages the shaft lock on the router for single spanner bit changes.

    The controller trips the router table NVR the instant the router position changes by more that a few mm, and instantly if bit change is selected.

    This is a safety feature in case the router is still spinning.




    NOTE The router lift is greatly simplified if a Spindle motor is used instead of a plunge router, however the Polycarbonate sheet should still be fitted to create an undisturbed intake path across the bit and table opening.

    The opening at the rear is a 152 mm extraction port running to a 3HP DC and is mounted as high as I could get it in the cabinet, this position is critical for correct dust extraction.

  5. #4
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    Helensburgh
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    Default

    Thanks Mike, I think you have done a super job in changing how router tables are built.

    I understand that 99.9% of people will look at all the electronics, their eyes glaze over and they decide it is all too hard. Forget the electronics for a moment and understand what this table is all about. Mike has removed the expensive router lift from the equation, added a totally removeable top and will eventually add a CNC spindle instead of the Triton.

    I have all the bits to make the electronic version but I am about to make a manual version. It will utilise the rails for the fence as on Mike's with an above table lift and if a router was used instead of a spindle the mechanical bits of rails and lead screw for the lift cost under $100 all up. A spindle kit will cost about $500 if you choose to use a spindle which you can do without all the electronics so for about $600 you get all the parts to build a table. Compare that to buying a lift and a router if need be, we are over a $1000 already without anything else. The electronic version will store jobs, store settings for multiple bit sets such as mitre bits, lipping bits for edge banding etc and once set up you would never need to do more than put the first bit in the router/spindle, call up the setting and route, wash and repeat for the second bit and any repetitive setting for any bit can be treated the same way.

    I am going to document the building of the manual table as we go to show the differences between the two.
    CHRIS

  6. #5
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    Nov 2013
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    Default Table inserts

    A few photos of one of the Table inserts, these can be simply made for any bit or task, the insert is 170mm long and 95mm wide at the rear.

    I'll be making these from Bullet Resistant Polycarbonate sheet when I get a chance. BTW the table has been in use for 8 months by my wife and lately by me again, it just works brilliantly.

    .

    .

    Showing once again how the plunge router base has been removed to open up the area around and below the BIT, the Polycarbonate sheet running across the top of the router body can be seen extending back towards the 150mm port.

    Not shown is a baffle / ramp coming from the back wall just below the 150mm port and sloping up towards the back of the Polycarbonate sheet. This keeps cabinet turbulence from disturbing the flow across the BIT and forces all intake air from the bottom of the cabinet to rise vertically across the router motor up to the 150mm port.

  7. #6
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    Default

    I'm trying to consolidate the RT build in one thread, so I'm adding the pictures I've posted before of the Fence bearing rails and drive here as well. Most pictures were of the prototype test mounting and this has since been rebuilt but is still the same layout, just a thicker and larger mounting base was use for the final build.

    Note that the RH side is almost the same with the exception of the Scale slide, micro switches and fence home sensor. Only the Screw drive, Stepper and bearing rail is used on the RH side. The motors are connected in parallel and make fence stability exactly the same as if the fence was clamped to the table, it's that solid, when the motors stop it is impossible to move the fence even a fraction on the screw drives, there is ZERO backlash or movement, if you push hard enough you can actually flex the Fence a fraction of an inch, exactly as you could when the fence was clamped to the table top, and this a is a heavy fully box sectioned fence.

    The fence movement is as smooth as silk, the motors have never got out of sync in over 8 months of use, combined with automated ramp up/down speed and auto micro movement for the last mm, the fence is fast accurate and a joy to use, I could neve go back to a normal router table after this, manual controls (fast in / out and rotary encoder for fine adjustment) are also a joy to use, but then again punching in the fence position or an offset from current position on the touch screen is also joy to use.

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    .

    .

    The last two pictures show how the drive unit is hidden under the table top overhang, you forget it's there in everyday use. Note also the old table top in these photos with fence locking inserts and a big router plate cutout, all gone in the new top shown at the start of this thread.

    The control panel in the last photo is the Manual control panel for Router lift and Fence movement, it also incorporated an Emergency Stop and illuminated limit switch back-off buttons. There is also a small socket for the Touch plate used to set BIT Zero and BIT cutting edge.

  8. #7
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    Default Accuracy of the Table.

    A few notes about the accuracy of the Table.

    The accuracy of the Fence and lift are ultimately determined by the resolution of the Digital Scale slide. I'm using low cost iGAGING EZ-VIEW DRO units at around $65.00 here in AU

    Accuracy:

    0-150mm range accurate to 0.025mm (0.0098") over its length.
    0-300mm range accurate to 0.038mm (0.0015") over its length.

    That variation is over the complete length of the scale, however once the Bit or Fence is Zeroed, the movement relative to Zero is over a small part of the total travel. There is no way you can get that kind of accuracy with clamps, rulers or shims. This is not a CNC running fine bits and cutting fine patterns to 0.001mm or better. The level of accuracy for a Router table with this setup is amazing and limited only by the construction of the router table and fence.

    The iGAGING DRO comes with a small digital readout head unit that drives the scale unit and decodes the data, this head unit is not used as I have coded an ARM micro controller running at 400Mhz to drive and decode the dual scales in Realtime and with faster update speeds that the supplied small LCD Head units.

    The ARM H7 based Touch screen controller can run either a 5" or 8" colour Touch screen, the controllers are around $39.00 in AU, Touch screen display start at $50.00, the software was created and written by me.

    There are numerous safety features built in:

    I mentioned previously the Triton Router has a mechanical shaft lock mechanism and normally you have to turn the Router power switch off before you can engage the shaft lock.

    The Triton is modified with no base plate and the inbuilt power switch is permanently on. The router power is controlled by an NVR switch, if power is removed the switch releases and has to be manually pressed to restart. The NVR switch is under Software control so that any unexpected movement of the Fence or Router lift cuts power to the Router and it has to be manually pressed (turned on) by the user to restart.

    And I added another failsafe safety feature, a micro switch that trips the NVR if the router lift gets to close to the Auto Shaft lock ramp (bit change position).

    The Software incorporates full error control of movement. Given the current speed of movement and the expected position rate of change, any change greater than expected trips Full Auto Stop of all movement and cuts power to the router. Normally this is caused by an electrical glitch or hardware failure - I HAVE NOT HAD a SINGLE NOISE GLITCH in this system - I have had a faulty DRO SCALE cable (supplied with the unit) they make use of a micro-B USB cable to connect their Heads to the displays, I also used the same cable so I simply replaced it.

    Other safety features are selectable and programable Movement of the Fence back from the Bit when BIT change is selected, this automatically moves the fence back enough for the BIT Guard or whatever you use to clear the Bit opening before the Bit is raised to the BIT change position, both the Fence and Router Lift can move simultaneously.

    Fence and Bit positions are entered via a BIG on screen keypad, the position and be entered as an absolute position or as an offset from the current position, to move the fence 0.01mm you would enter 0.01 and press the OFST key. Readout and entry in mm or inches is selectable.

    The Fence Zero position is fully automatic utilising an adjustable Optical sensor - Press Home and the fence always returns to EXACTLY the same position from anywhere on the table. No silly moving from end to end limit switches to calculate home position. I set my Home position to be the center of the Collet (BIT)

    The BIT home position utilises a simple Touch Plate, with this system it makes no difference how deep the bit is seated in the collet, the BIT zero position is always the same relative to the cutting surface for a given BIT.

    All BIT and FENCE positions can be saved and recalled for 100's of jobs with the touch of a button, Fence and BIT positions can be also updated at any time with the touch of a button. All data is saved to an standard formatted Windows readable SD card. If a job position is selected (recalled), just press GO and the Fence and Bit move to the saved positions and you're ready to go.

    There is no operating system with this controller, it's an instant on Router table controller.

  9. #8
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    Default Manual Control.

    FYI for anyone interested.




    1: Fence position fine adjustment rotary encoder

    2: Emergency Stop - Locks down when pressed - Turn to release.

    3: Touch Plate socket, single wire connection

    4: Height position fine adjustment rotary encoder

    5: Height Fast UP / DOWN switch, spring return to centre

    6: Height limit Back OFF, push button, lights GREEN when height Limits are tripped

    7: Fence limit Back OFF, push button, lights GREEN when fence Limits are tripped

    8: Fence Fast IN / OUT switch, spring return to centre

    The Emergency stop physically interrupts the Stepper motor Drive controllers and is the ONLY WAY to STOP the stepper motors if the Main Touch screen controller has a fault while driving the Motors. Emergency Stop also trips the NVR relay and removes power to the Router motor.

    When the Emergency stop button is on, the two green Limit Back off switches (6 and 7) flash along with the FENCE, BIT and STOP buttons on the controller LCD screen.

    Of course switching OFF the power rocker switch located on the RH side of the Router table will also stop the system.

  10. #9
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    Default

    Touch Plate connnector is the square Black socket at the top RH side of the panel.

    .

    The Touch Plate is simply a piece of aluminium or steel with a countersunk hole on the underside in one corner to take a small screw and nut, this holds an eyelet attached to a single flexible wire lead. When needed, the touch plate is plugged into the Manual control panel. The Plate should be long enough to sit flat on the Router table top across the widest opening you would be likely to have in the top of the table.

    Lower the router lift until the bit is below the top of the table and the Touch plate. Press Bit Home then press GO. The software moves the bit upwards until it touches the plate, it then performs a very fine adjustment of the router lift in both directions until the top of the Bit is exactly level with the underside of the Touch plate (level with the top of the table).

    The Touch plate can also be used "edge on" to set any part of the Bit Cutting edge level with any reference point you choose.

  11. #10
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    Default

    Very Rough and short on detail but gives an idea of extraction in this table.

    Typical table design:





    This Design: Modified Table, Fence, Router Mounting and Cabinet with ONE Dust extraction port:




    One of the things that I don't think is really apparent from the photos is the huge shift in dust extraction performance. First: Opening up and combining the extraction paths from in front and below the bit, and all the way back through and into a "through the table" fence extraction port, thus making them act as one. Secondly: Moving the router cabinet to dust collector 150mm port up high in the cabinet behind the router, and channeling air intake from an intake at the top of the cabinet door and across the underside of the table intake opening, you now have all extraction flowing in the SAME direction through and also across the underside of the table.

    I wonder how many have thought about fence extraction and have realised that when you pull air through the front of the fence from the typical small fence collector box and use an extraction hose connected to the top or back of the box, that you are actually pulling that air through the fence and around the bit in almost the "opposite direction" to through table air flow, it's actually fighting below table dust extraction right at that critical extraction point - the router bit.

    Now when you add the limited collection intake area around the bit with typical insert ring design, thus creating very low air flow volume, and the partly blocked and disturbed below table air-path caused by typical router base plates, and the router motor fan that pushes high speed air back up past the router bit and outwards below the table, also scattering any dust that does make it below the table outwards and everywhere around the dust enclosure, then it's no wonder it's a crap shoot. A Spindle motor "with an appropriate lift" - eliminates two of the three issues -> the base plate and router fan, otherwise you need to modify the router base plate and mounting along with the table top and insert design.

    As an example when using a fence. The work piece often covers the insert ring and on a standard table setup the only extraction you basically have left is through the fence, now if you are using a typical zero clearance fence then IMHO, you now have virtually NO dust extraction because of the problems outlined above.

    However in this table design, you still have dust extraction. The air travelling across the underside of the table and past the completely exposed back and underside of the bit, and behind and below the fence, now extracts everything thrown out by the bit, and if you open the zero clearance fence up above the bit zero clearance cutout, then you have above table extraction working again, and this time NOT fighting against but combining with below table air flow.

    If the work piece is set so that it's completely covering the fence, once again table bit dust extraction flow is maintained across the underside of the table, effectively removing all dust and chips.

  12. #11
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    Default

    I love your work!!

  13. #12
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    Default

    Just a bit of an FYI for the Parts used on the Fence and Lift, the prices change with the wind but most of this was bought from AU suppliers.

    Stepper parts from Steppers on Line. stepperonline.com/ Make sure to select Australian supply for each item.

    3 x Nema 23 Bipolar 3Nm (425oz.in) 4.2A 57x57x114mm 4 Wires Stepper Motor CNC 23HS45-4204S $38.54 each. Could use smaller motors but there was not much in price difference at the time (on special I think) so I went with the larger units.

    3 x 8mm -10mm Flexible Jaw Coupling 20x30mm CNC Stepper Motor Shaft Coupler. $11.18 each

    3 x Nema 23 Bracket for Stepper Motor and Geared Stepper Motor Alloy Steel Bracket. $5.04 each

    1 x 400W 36V 11A 115/230V Switching Power Supply Stepper Motor CNC Router Kits, S-400-36. $47.87

    2 x Digital Stepper Driver 1.0-4.2A 20-50VDC for Nema 17, 23, 24 Stepper Motor DM542T. $49.00 each


    Linear Rails and Screw Drives.

    Fence:
    2 x SBR16-750mm Linear Support Bearings Rails with 4 Slide Blocks SBR16UU 16mm. $45.00 at the time.
    2 x L400mm 12mm Antibacklash Ball Screw SFU1204 BF/BK10 With Single Ballnut.

    Router Lift:
    1 x SBR16-750mm Linear Support Bearings Rails with 4 Slide Blocks SBR16UU 16mm, I cut one in half and ordered - 4 x SBR16UU 16mm Aluminum Open Linear Motion Bearing Block Slide for CNC. This gave me two short rails and a spare set of bearings.

    1 x AU Antibacklash Ball Screw SFU1204 12mm L250mm + Ballnut BF/BK10 End Machining.

    Mike.

  14. #13
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    Default

    In keeping with the task of putting all the Router table build in one thread:

    Here again is the basic circuit of the Right Hand control panel shown in the photos. It powers the Router and has the NVR switch and the control relay switching AC power.

    For anyone not familiar with the old build, this Router Table has a Vacuum switch that will not allow the Router Motor to start unless the Table has enough vacuum to remove Dust, in other words, the Dust Collector is running and the Blast Gate to the Router table is open. The Vacuum switch is mounted in a small compartment in the back of the Router Table, a small plastic tube protrudes into the Router compartment and senses DC Vacuum.



    Note: The Automation Micro Controller interfaces to the low voltage ground side of the relay control that powers the Router Motor and NVR switch, in case of an error it TRIPS the NVR cutting power to the Router.

  15. #14
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    Default

    After I finish the manual version I will be replicating Mike's RT in a separate build. I note the lack of response to this thread but for the price of a router and lift you get the result here.
    CHRIS

  16. #15
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    After I finish the manual version I will be replicating Mike's RT in a separate build. I note the lack of response to this thread but for the price of a router and lift you get the result here.
    Chris
    Chipping in to see how it all goes.
    I’m quite interested in all of this.

    Cheers Matt

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