Thread: Benchtop Router Table

Don't buggerise around with it, it's pretty much perfect as it is.

Originally Posted by aldav

Don't buggerise around with it, it's pretty much perfect as it is.

What aldav said.

The larger size won't take up much more space in your workshop but you'll probably be glad of it if you're working with anything much longer than about 600mm.

Originally Posted by 419

What aldav said.

The larger size won't take up much more space in your workshop but you'll probably be glad of it if you're working with anything much longer than about 600mm.

Ok...I'm convinced....lol
I've got some 18mm and 12mm marine ply ( for drawers) , for the rest of it so I can plow ahead.

Whats the general 'norm', if there is one, for locating the Router Plate on a table?

A google revealed a wealth of different opinions. I can understand that.....But nothing was more prominant than others.
I was thinking, centrally left to right, but maybe pushing it back some to give more room at the front.
No idea what I will predomantly doing on this table, so can't use that as a guide. I may fit a T slot across the front at some stage.....not sure, if I'll use it.
Sound reasonable?

Drawing is to scale.

Steve

Plate Placement.jpg

My table is 700mm deep and mounted as an outfeed table for when required on my tablesaw. The router is mounted in the centre giving 350mm from front to router bit. I find this a good distance back as there is plenty of surface for your workpiece and the majority of my work is on the front side of the bit with the fence over the bit. As your table top is only 450mm wide you might need to come a bit further forward so you have enough room behind the bit for the fence to travel, or don't make your fence as bulky as mine.
I do have a mitre track in my table and find it comes in handy for the odd occasions I want to use a mitre gauge but it hasn't always been there, so not a necessity.
Depending on how high your tabletop is going to be might also determine how far back you want your router too. You don't want to be reaching way back if the top is quite high which could be the case if you are making a benchtop router table. As you can see, mine is only the height of the tablesaw so fairly low which makes reaching back pretty comfortable and easy to see what's happening at the bit.
I agree with others, if you have the room leave the table length as it is for work support. I wouldn't be concerned about the radiused front as you don't use the edge for anything critical.

Router table.jpg

Have finished making the 'legs' of the table. Just have to seal and varnish. Drawers now have nice little knobs on them now....

My router lift didn't come with a metal plate for the height adjusting screws to sit on and I have read them that the plate 'settles' over time if one doesn't use one, so have asked a local cnc laser business to cut one out for me.

metal plate.jpg

I'm waiting for that before I cut out the benchtop for the lift to fit.
Have ordered some Down Cut bits for that.

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steve

A piece of perspex makes a good base for the router. If you need to increase the hole size you just use the router bit to cut it.
Do yourself a favour and knock up a Racing Router (450X450x16 melamine top, 16mm thick sides and back to suit standard router size, base from 16mm melamine and 50mm larger than footprint of router box. Bore a hole in one side of the box, just above the base for a suction hose. Perspex mounting plate to suit router and a spare to suit a trim router. 16mm melamine L shaped fence with triangular brackets and capped to form a suction cavity behind cutter. Cut out fence to clear cutter. Bore hole in hood to attach suction hose. 50mm G clamps are enough to hold fence.
Quick and easy to make. Light and portable. Clamp to a bench or screw in a vice. Bloody things last for ages. I've got one I made 25years ago and it still gives good sevice and has had a lot of use.

I made some progress over the last couple of days, despite breaking my little toe and putting my back out....lol ( don't ask....lol )
Both uprights are done.
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The metal spacer that goes under the router lift is cut out. Very nice and alot easier than trying to cut one out myself. Its even the right size....
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I did a test cut to prove my drawing and test depth I require. I had to tram the MDF on the table as I haven't finalised the a permanent bed for my Router yet.

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Router lift fits nice so when the router bits arrive I can do final cut.

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I need to order some t slot next.
I have a Fence from a triton router table and I'm thinking of using that on this bench. It has a dust port already so will save some mucking around.
Seems stiff enough.

Slow progress as I had a stint in Hospital.

Down Cut bits finally arrived so I can setup to cut the router plate opening soon.

Finished off the NVR Switch. Ready to mount.

Hope all is okay now and I look forward to the end result when you get to it.

I got some more done today.

I got the cut out for the router lift done.
and bought some brackets from Bunnings and mounted them
on the draws ready to screw to the top.

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I mounted the top to the drawers.

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Installed the Trimmer Router

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Before I mount the NVR switch , I'm going to order a speed control. Maybe not.....lol

Was going to ask why you want a speed control but I see you are now questioning it. Only router bits over 25mm need to be slowed down according to charts online.
Table is looking good but I think you are cheating cutting out the recess with a CNC (only jealous)

Originally Posted by Treecycle

Was going to ask why you want a speed control but I see you are now questioning it. Only router bits over 25mm need to be slowed down according to charts online.
Table is looking good but I think you are cheating cutting out the recess with a CNC (only jealous)

Yes, after doing some research( which I should have done before posting....) I discovered they are also lame, except, if it uses speed feedback.
There is one that seems good, but , as you say, I probably don't need it.
I may look at it later as I sometimes get some burning when routing.

Re: recess
LOL...yeah, I am cheating, but if ya got it, use it!

I am wondering if I need to / should, fit a T slot across the front? I see some tables have one and some don't.
I guess its for using a mitre square on the router table? Can't think of a compelling reason to have one, but that doesn't mean anything....

I'd hate to not fit one and then come across a situation where I can use it.

thoughts?


Steve