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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
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    Hastings, New Zealand
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    Default Bit Selection For Dado's? How to...?

    Hi everyone.

    I'm currently updating my router and looking at what size bits to use for Dado's amongst other things when using on MDF and Pine etc..

    If we set this thread up for the "Standard" for those who are also looking then this will help more than just me.

    If we want a good fit using 12mm stock in the Dado - what size is best 12mm or 12.5mm? Are there any "rules"?

    Same again in 16mm and Impreial sized wood stock.



    Please post here

    Thanks everyone for your experiance and knowlege to share here.

    "Man Caves NZ rock"

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
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    2,178

    Default

    I would suggest spiral upcuts for both. You'll get really great clean cuts. I would buy 1/2 in h shanks as well, particularly for the 16m. A router that takes half inch shanks is more flexible anyway. You can buy collets for 1/4" 8mm and 12mm shank bits.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Canberra
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    3,260

    Default

    Also measure. Just because the board says '16mm' don't assume it actually is 16mm OR that you can make a perfect straight cut without any wobble in the non-guided side. Corollary - if you hold the router real hard up against a guide to stop wobble, don't assume the guide won't deflect under pressure. Don't ask how I know this...

    Also (if you are going to do this regularly) consider making a captive guide (gives two guide edges for the router) and use an undersize bit (ie if cutting 16mm wide, do it with a 10mm bit, with one pass along each side and 4mm of crossover in the middle)

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Queensland
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    2,947

    Default

    Not sure if this will help you out, but, it may give you another idea. Instead of trying to match bit size to timber sizes this jig allows me to get exact matches. I use straight bits and will certainly get spirals when I finally exhaust the old ones.

    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f44/ugly-34437

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Hastings, New Zealand
    Posts
    73

    Default Upper cuts...

    Quote Originally Posted by LGS View Post
    I would suggest spiral upcuts for both. You'll get really great clean cuts. I would buy 1/2 in h shanks as well, particularly for the 16m. A router that takes half inch shanks is more flexible anyway. You can buy collets for 1/4" 8mm and 12mm shank bits.
    Thanks. Question "H" Shank?

    Like the Linbide SC12.7M8UC ? - Up cut prevents burning in plunge cuts. Requires good vacuum. Suitable for slotting, grooving.

    They (Linbide) dont seem to have too many sizes avail - so may need to look elsewear?

    On the Linbide site I can see compression routers with upcut and downcut. 12.7M4CC for example - these sound good?

    "Fitted with sub-micron grade tungsten, they are designed to be easily sharpened with out using expensive spiral grinders. Compression routers are just the tool for double-sided laminate boards like Formica and Melamine, plastic coated boards, hardwood or veneered plywood where a clean cut is needed on both top and bottom surfaces. The Linbide Compression Router Bit makes clean, chip and splinter-free cuts for truly excellent finish in materials 10mm to 20mm."

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Hastings, New Zealand
    Posts
    73

    Thumbs up Timber Sizes...

    Quote Originally Posted by Master Splinter View Post
    Also measure. Just because the board says '16mm' don't assume it actually is 16mm OR that you can make a perfect straight cut without any wobble in the non-guided side. Corollary - if you hold the router real hard up against a guide to stop wobble, don't assume the guide won't deflect under pressure. Don't ask how I know this...

    Also (if you are going to do this regularly) consider making a captive guide (gives two guide edges for the router) and use an undersize bit (ie if cutting 16mm wide, do it with a 10mm bit, with one pass along each side and 4mm of crossover in the middle)
    Hi MS

    True - Measure "Stock" First.

    "Saftey is always needed when using power tools" - A router at speed which looses its line can be dangerous and destructive so consider a table or Hold Downs wherever and whatever you do. Tons of "Jigs" are easily sort here and other places on the internet.

    Re Captive guides. I'm using a Triton Table saw bench with a sliding router frame. So this will fix that issue, however for more "portable" work a Jig is easy to "knock up".

    Consider Multi cuts.

    Yes - with regular work and saving the tooling it is and idea. What about "Slotting"...?

    Thanks

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Hastings, New Zealand
    Posts
    73

    Thumbs up Jig Idea for Straight Cuts

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob38S View Post
    Not sure if this will help you out, but, it may give you another idea. Instead of trying to match bit size to timber sizes this jig allows me to get exact matches. I use straight bits and will certainly get spirals when I finally exhaust the old ones.

    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f44/ugly-34437
    Thanks Bob. Great ingenuity. Highly recommend this to others who are either starting out or want some ideas on "Adjustable Jigs".

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    2,178

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RecyclingKiwi View Post
    Thanks. Question "H" Shank?

    Like the Linbide SC12.7M8UC ? - Up cut prevents burning in plunge cuts. Requires good vacuum. Suitable for slotting, grooving.

    They (Linbide) dont seem to have too many sizes avail - so may need to look elsewear?

    On the Linbide site I can see compression routers with upcut and downcut. 12.7M4CC for example - these sound good?

    "Fitted with sub-micron grade tungsten, they are designed to be easily sharpened with out using expensive spiral grinders. Compression routers are just the tool for double-sided laminate boards like Formica and Melamine, plastic coated boards, hardwood or veneered plywood where a clean cut is needed on both top and bottom surfaces. The Linbide Compression Router Bit makes clean, chip and splinter-free cuts for truly excellent finish in materials 10mm to 20mm."
    Sorry, the "h" was a typo, means nothing.
    You may want to have a look at the CMT bits which are available at Carbatec And also Carbitool bits. Both are good quality cutters.

    Regards,

    Rob

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