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  1. #16
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    and ..:

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  3. #17
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    and! ..:

  4. #18
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    Turn the router table into a biscuit joiner (ala Triton). Made from yet another piece of aluminium sectrion:

  5. #19
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    Perth
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    The connection:

  6. #20
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    And finally! My mitre guide with built in extension.

  7. #21
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    And the last one (almost forgot this!):

    Note the clip removes the Router table fence from the main tablesaw fence.

  8. #22
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    Aug 2002
    Location
    Williamstown, Melbourne
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    486

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    Nice photos Derek.
    I have 2 questions for everyone:

    - what is the ideal distance (if there is) between mitre slot and router? Is it basically as close to the insert plate as you can get, leaving about an inch?

    - dust extraction seems to fall into 2 categories: exposed router and overhead extraction (like Derek's table), or an enclosed table with extraction from beneath (like Norm's table). Is either better? I guess an enclosed table would dampen some of the noise?

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Wallan, VIC, Australia
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    59
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    377

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    I must agree, the triton switch box is a great addition to my router table.

    Simple and effective.

    I actually have a couple of no volt release switches now in my roundtuit department which are an even better proposition.
    These would make it VERY easy to incorporate a foot stop switch simply by breaking the supply before the no volt release switch....
    Ray

  10. #24
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    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    John

    My previous (stand alone) router table was similar to Norm's (Oh God, I've had sooo many. Even one with a sliding table - don't go there). My decision to build an integrated router-saw table was two-fold:

    Firstly, this arrangement saves a lot of space. My workshop lives in a double garage which, while longer that the usual, still has to share space with cars and non-woodworking toys. This setup can be rolled against a back wall and there is enough room for my bandsaw.

    Secondly, attaching the router fence to the tablesaw fence permits more precise and repeatable settings. The fence is very stable. And it always remains parallel to the mitre gauge slot (which is essential if you want to maintain a 90 degree angle, such as when routing endgrain - even Norm has a special mitre gauge with built-in hold down for this purpose).

    When the router table is not in use, the router fence is removed and stored under the table.

    The Triton on-off switch is essential. In fact, I have another one on the other side of the table for sawtable use.

    All connections are made with the same sized stainless steel Allen-head bolts.

    Back to my previous stand alone table: the dust collection was from both the top (as per current fence) and within a cabinet. I did not think that the cabinet cut back that much noise to warrant a cabinet for that purpose alone. For dust control, I found that 90% went through the top collector. When I built this table I decided that I was not going to spend my life in front of it (since I do prefer hand tools), so some compromises were accepted (that is, a little more noise and a little more dust).

    The distance from my mitre gauge slot to the centre of the router plate is 155mm. However, the fence on my mitre gauge could run right up to the centre of the plate if I choose. Or a sacrificial subfence could be clamped on.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  11. #25
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    Oct 2003
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    Perth
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    Thanks to all so far for a very interesting thread- keep it going please. Derek - did you investigate what table inserts were available-and then choose yours for a particular reason?
    Pete J

  12. #26
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    Perth
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    Pete

    Look, I will shut up after this post and give everyone else a chance. Just to answer your question regarding the table insert:

    I hunted high and low to find one like this. The only outlet I could find in Oz was Jesada (http://www.jesada.com/australia/mall.../web_store.cgi)

    Previously I had made my own out of 4mm aluminium sheeting. Ii worked very well but did not have the capability to use inserts (to reduce the hole size).

    OK, over to the rest of you.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  13. #27
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    Jun 2001
    Location
    Duffy ACT
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    Can I throw another coal on the fire and recommend the book "Router Magic" by Bill Hylton. ISBN 0-7621-0185-7. I got mine via Dymocks for around A$45, but I'm sure that it's cheaper elsewhere.

    If this book doesn't answer all your questions, you're a nitpicker!

    I have been making all kinds of excuses not to do any actual work - even looked at the GMC "powered table" - but, having watched this thread, and others, with interest, have started clearing space in my storage shed and sorting timber. Don't hold your breath, but I'll get there eventually!



    Johnno
    Growing old disgracefully...

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    196

    Smile

    Hi All,

    I think this Thread is a great idea. Derek, I reckon you've done a fantastic job incorporating the router into the saw table.

    Here are a few of my ideas. As preivously stated, my first table top warped very quickly. I eventually used a piece of 32mm MDF for the top and the 2 legs and brace under the table are made from 25mm MDF. What ever you use, ENSURE ITS FLAT before you go any further. The top is about 750x600mm.

    I used 6mm perspex for the table insert. I drilled hole across either ends of the table to hold the fence plus other accessories.
    I didn't like the commerically available Mitre Tracks because there is too much "slop" for my liking. I machined a "zero clearence" trench to acept a 25x6mm alloy extruded flat bar.

    When all the holes, trench and machining was done, I primed the entire table, then painted the lower section with 2 coats of exterior house paint. The table top was sanded with fine paper, then sprayed with enamel. Afterwards (and every so often) I wiped the surface with wax.

    I installed a switch on the outside of one leg and installed a double power point on the inside of the leg. One for the router and the other for the vaccum cleaner.

    The fence is fairly simple, made of 16mm MDF 150x150mm with 4 guessets along the length. The middle two hold the dust port.
    The only special feature of the fence are the 2 hold down clamps which can be positioned at two heights. I have also made a pair of hold downs which sit on the surface of the table.

    The whole assembly sit on top of a folding frame. The table stores under a bench and the base can be hung up on the wall.

    I'll borrow a digital camera and take some photos.

    If you want to make interchangeable insert I suggest use 8mm perspex for the insert plate, then make the steps 4mm each.

    Another feature I have thought about, is to attach a Vertical router support. Constructed is a similar design to the top, eg 32mm MDF, insert plate. It could be used for horizontal routing.
    Simple to add to a sturdy table. Pivot on one end and a curved slot on the other end to set the height.

    Anyway, better stop going on & on.

    I'll post photos.

    Glen.

  15. #29
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    May 2003
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    Perth WA
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    Sorry Gents I have been away making drawers and doing chores all weekend.
    There has been some great input and also thanks to Derek for the photos - as they say a photo is as good as a thousand words. I’m sure a lot of your features will be included in the final design.
    Glen your setup sounds good – some photos would be great. I would also like to see drawing / hear more of the vertical router setup. I can understand the concept but can’t visualise exactly what you have described. A thought running through my head is that perhaps a hinged tabletop could turn a vertical router into a horizontal router – don’t worry I can’t visualise that properly either.
    John I agree there are probably lots of publications on this and we may be reinventing the wheel and for that matter duplicating previous posts but it could be fun and for lazy sods like myself I would rather tap away here than go read a book. Like yourself it seems that a lot of us are considering making a new router table so good luck and lets know how it progresses.
    This all seemed quite simple at the start “A challenge to build the ideal router table” but it is fast developing into a question of what do you want to use it for and how much do you want to pay. If you are going to build your own then it is likely that you do not want to spend great wads of money otherwise you would buy a commercial version. Also our wants/needs change as we develop new skills or move into different areas of woodwork so there is a high likelihood that you will modify your router table or make a new router table along the way. In the last couple of years I have been making cabinets - I can’t use the term Cabinet Making because I am not a tradesperson but that is the type of woodwork that has turned me on. Prior to that I made boxes, picture frames and the like so you can see for me the scale and machining requirements have changed. This is probably best demonstrated by my router bit collection which has grown from ¼ inch shank straight cutters and a few ogee bits to ½ inch shank raised panel door making sets and to the larger profile moulding bits. I’m sure most of us started with the wooden box of assorted ¼ inch shaft bits – incidentally I have only used about four of the 12 bits out of that set.
    Now that I have got all the excuses out of the way I think the best way to handle this is to create a generic list of desirable features with options depending on the router application/s you anticipate. Again I don’t know how this is going to pan out so if anyone has any better idea then I’m all ears (and between those is an ugly face too).
    I will start in a new post so I do not corrupt the important bits with this waffle.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  16. #30
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    May 2003
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    Perth WA
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    Planning: Decide on a budget and consider the type of work you are going to do and likely to do in the future. Think big because if you see woodworking as more than a passing fad you are likely to outgrow a smaller setup.
    The design options are to
    1. Incorporate it into an existing machine such as a table saw extension wing. The advantage of this is that the router table can be attached to the rigid frame of the table saw and that the table saw fence and other features could be used or modified for routing applications. The disadvantage is that the table saw will set the size of the router table but life is full of compromises. Due to the variations on this type of setup it is impossible to provide specific detail but the principals will be the same as any router table.
    2. Freestanding Unit. The advantage here is that you have a blank page to do what you want. You can make a cabinet with heaps of features or a tabletop that collapses and stores on the wall or under the bench.
    The router must match your work requirements and your table design will be based on your router. Think about the size of the router bits you will be using - ¼ or ½ inch shank or both. The size of the cutters will dictate if you need a variable speed router and the horsepower that is required to drive the router bit. It must have a plunge action with a secure locking mechanism. It is also preferable to have a fine adjustment on the depth setting. Dust extraction is an advantage as are any safety features like motor isolation when changing bits. It is preferable to have your router as a permanent fixture in the router table ????????? This should promote a bit of comment.
    Scrounge around and look for suitable material to make the router table. For the framework and fence steel and aluminium are more stable than timber but may present difficulties for the woodworking workshop. Salvaged timber should be cheaper and is probably less likely to warp then new timber. Laminated bench tops are ideal but must be checked for flatness. Seal all timber and manufactured boards on all sides to reduce warping.
    The Table: The aim here is to make a tabletop that is perfectly flat and of sufficient dimension to support the size of material you are machining. The consensus so far is a length of at least 900mm up to 1200mm and a width of 450mm up to 800mm. A restriction could be the available space to use and store the router table. The height of the tabletop could be matched to your existing machinery so that the router table can be used as a support, i.e. outfeed for table saw. I hope there is more discussion about size as there hasn’t been a huge amount of feedback. A manufactured board such as MDF of at least 30 mm seems to be popular. Is it OK glue two 16mm thick sheets together or will this create problems with flatness? What about melamine and can you glue two sheets of this together??? The reason I ask this is because 16-18mm sheets are easier to source than the thicker sheets.
    I will stop here and wait for more posts on the tabletop especially the table insert and methods of attaching the router, hinging the tabletop to make router adjustments easier, ideas on mitre tracks and everything else I don’t know about. As this has taken a bit of a turn from the starting point perhaps some feedback on how this is developing – I do not want to waste yours and my time if this is not going anywhere. I am only trying to facilitate this thread so feel free to dispute or add anything to the above.
    Cheers,
    Rod

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