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  1. #76
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Gympie QLD
    Age
    61
    Posts
    1,095

    Default More details/pics

    This is a view from the working side of the table.



    I built a few nice features into the table one of which is the Router Bit drawer.
    Wayne
    ______________________________________________
    "I'd be delighted to offer any advice I have on understanding women.
    When I have some, I'll let you know."
    Picard

    * New Website - Updates Coming Soon *
    http://wayneswoodwork.davyfamily.com/

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  3. #77
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    196

    Default Mitre Track

    Hi,

    For those interested in fitting a mitre track.

    I've drawn a simple sketch on how the two extrusions are assembled on the Aust Woodsmith (issue 17) router table. You clamp the Tee track to the right angle to form a track to suit the width of of the bar on your mitre gauge. Then drill thru both extrusions and screw to the table in a suitable size trench.
    The only thing you have to cut is the length of the extrusions to suit your table. I got a feeling some people didn't quite understand so this should clear things up.

    You end up with one track for the mitre guage and one which can be used to hold accessories using tee-bolts.

    Glen

  4. #78
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Gympie QLD
    Age
    61
    Posts
    1,095

    Default

    Glen,

    That is the Mitre/Tee track I used on my table. Works great. I put a Tee Track on the top of the Fence as well to hold finger boards, etc as shown in that Woodsmith article.

    The Tee track is the Sail track from Capral Alum. again as recommended in the article.
    Wayne
    ______________________________________________
    "I'd be delighted to offer any advice I have on understanding women.
    When I have some, I'll let you know."
    Picard

    * New Website - Updates Coming Soon *
    http://wayneswoodwork.davyfamily.com/

  5. #79
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Elimbah, QLD
    Posts
    3,336

    Default

    Wayne,
    I noticed that you used polythene cutting boards for holding your router bits. Another cheaper solution for cheapskates like me is to use a foam rubber kneeling mat such as gardeners use. If you use these, you have to drill the holes for the router-bit shanks a little undersized so that the rubber foam grips them firmly.

  6. #80
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Gympie QLD
    Age
    61
    Posts
    1,095

    Default

    Rocker,

    Great tip - I bought those poly breadboards for about $5 each at Crazy Clarks from memory. Pretty cheap router bit storage with lots of benefits (minimal shank rust for one).

    I have recently taken to saving those little silica packets you get in some packaging (i.e electronics, cameras, etc) and dropping them in the Router draw to help with stoping the rust.

    'Waste not, want not' as my Grandfather used to say.
    Wayne
    ______________________________________________
    "I'd be delighted to offer any advice I have on understanding women.
    When I have some, I'll let you know."
    Picard

    * New Website - Updates Coming Soon *
    http://wayneswoodwork.davyfamily.com/

  7. #81
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    156

    Default My Funtional Low cost Router Table

    Hi,

    Having read this interesting thread, I wish make some contribution. "It is better to give than to just receive"

    I built my cost-effective router table using my ROUTER (Hitachi M12V) to cut out an accurate 10mm deep Router-base shape into the bottom surface of a 560x765x16mm Melamine Chip-board . The router is then supported by 4 countersunk screws though 6mm of the bouard. This may not be strong enough. So I added 2 40mm wide L brackets with large screws from the 16mm think area of chipboard to add support for the base of the router.

    Top of the table is smooth because it is one piece of board. The through hole for the bits is as large as as the widest bit the M12V would take. This is too big for many uses so I have made circular inserts with smaller holes using 6mm MDF with coutersunk screws into the threaded holes used to mount template guides.

    As I wanted dust extraction system, I bought the Triton Fence upgrade for the RTA200. I get the fence, Dust extraction and safety cover with that spare-part kit. I used my router again to make taller MDF sub-fenses screwed to the low metal trition fences. The triton fence are mouted on screw slots cut with the router.

    For the Mitre slot , I cut a 16mm slots parallel to the fence, using the Router again with a straight bit though a template guide. I use a 900 mm MDF jig (MDF Door JAMB with a slot having the width of my template guide's external diameter cut) I made earlier, to make sure that the slot width & depth are accurate and smooth. I also have cut a bigger wider (3/4 inch) slot ready for the Carba-Tec T-slot aluminuium mitre track. But I have never really needed it.

    To keep the router table surface from warping, I glued and screwed 6 battens arranged to make a smaller rectangle at the bottom of the table. This rectangle had just butt joints. I can clamp the table by the rectangle using the vise of the Black & Decker Workmate 400 I already had. But I had to drill 2 extra holes in the B&D Workmate 400 vise top, so that I could put plastic dog insert to clamp the router table and still allowing the M12V router to move up and down under the B&D work centre.

    For easy bit depth adjustment I bought the long cylinder height adjustment knob from Jesada Tools - they sell long cylinder router height adjustment knobs for many types of routers for about $50.

    For the on-off switch, I found that the cheapest way is to use the HPM IP53 Waterpoof power point. It is really used here for "dust proofing and safety - not used here for waterproofing. I screw the power point to the bottom of the router table and plug the Hitachi router cable power plug into this power point. There is no need for me to get a magnetic zero-voltage switch because the Hitachi M12V features electronic control "soft-start" 3.25HP motor.

    For Safety, a RED string is tied on one end to a hole drilled into the plastic lever of the IP53 Water proof power point and the other end to a leg of the stand after going round the table through eyelets. Any pull of the string by hand or foot will switch the power point off. My waterproof power point also has a 10A "Shock proof" plug at the wall and Superheavy Duty 15A cables. Use "trade" extension cable (colour usually yellow or orange).

    This router table can be easily stored away when I need to use the B&D workmate for something else. Just loosen the vise of the workmate.

    Is the router table ideal. Of couse NOT!. Is it useful and functional? yes for me.

    I reckon that my ideal router table will have my router mounted horizontally, with vertical height adjustment and tiltable fences -rather than having a router mounted vertically under the table. UNDER TABLE ROUTER is NOT really in an IDEAL environment.

    In that case, 1. I would be able to raise large panels with just cheap straight or narrow shaped bits cutting horizontally. 2. Dust would not drop into my router motor and plunge pillar cylinders 3. I could cut mortises and deep rabets or grooves or mouldings at the side of large horizontal panels on the table. To support large panels, I think a structure like the triton sliding mini-extention table would serve the purpose.

    I will be building "my ideal router table" sometime in the future.

    Bye for now.

    (sorry I have no ready photos as I do not own a camera. Will upload photos only in a week or 2's time using borrowed digital camera)
    Last edited by reuelt; 24th November 2003 at 09:01 AM.
    Reuel

  8. #82
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Kempsey NSW
    Age
    66
    Posts
    1,140

    Default

    Reuelt
    Sounds like you have an excellent table. Any chance of some pictures?
    Jim
    Cheers
    Jim

    "I see dumb peope!"

  9. #83
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
    Age
    87
    Posts
    239

    Default

    Here is one real dangerous nasty I have with my table and Makita router. If anybody has mentioned it during this I apologise but I have missed it. I got caught by it - again - yesterday. No injury yet BUT.
    The Makita has an on/off switch like a light switch as do many routers.
    When in the bench the switch has to be on and the router is controlled by the external switch on the bench.
    Remove router from bench to use handheld - put bit in - (yesterday a large cove bit) - plug into power point - yep - you guessed it - router was still on. I have had the router land on the floor (no damage), yesterday it stayed on the bench but it still gives you one hell of a fright.
    Has anybody come up with, or have a suggestion for avoiding that one?
    GeoffS

  10. #84
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Gold Coast,Australia
    Age
    49
    Posts
    350

    Default

    The belt sander was a great tool for this,geoff.

    i make it a habit of checking the switch before i plug any powertool in these days. the makita trimmer with its toggle switch was also a beauty for this.


  11. #85
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    196

    Default

    Geoff,

    I always make it a habit to switch off the router with the external table switch and the switch on the router whenever I change/remove bits. As I always remove the bit before removing the router from the table, I don't have this problem.
    If I'm using it free hand I unplug it or turn the power point off to change bits.

    As GCP310 (Glenn with 2 Ns) says, I too alway check power tools before pluging them in. Years ago I had an Angle Grinder take off across the workshop floor. I was very lucky, but it was a lesson never forgotten.

    You could try attaching some kind of "dayglo" streamer to the plug to remind you, but I think the real answer is to try a get into the practice of checking each time you plug something into the socket.

    Anyway, I'm glad you weren't hurt.

    Take Care,

    Glen.

  12. #86
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
    Age
    70
    Posts
    216

    Default

    That's one of the great things about the Triton router. Can't change bits with the switch on. Have to turn the unit off before it will let you lock the spindle to undo/tighten the collet. A feature I reckon all machines like this should have.
    Regards,

    BigPop
    (I never get lost, because everyone tells me where to go!!!)

  13. #87
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Elimbah, QLD
    Posts
    3,336

    Default

    I keep my Makita in the router table all the time (removable inserts allow me to change bits with the router remaining in the table), and use a Porter-Cable PC-7529, which has a safer type of switch on one of its handles, for hand-held routing.

  14. #88
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
    Age
    87
    Posts
    239

    Default

    Thanks all - remembering to ALWAYS do something works except for those times you forget!! Obviously I almost always remember.
    Back when I regularly removed my power saw from the Triton table the clip that held the switch locked on was tied to the table with a piece of string - no problem. I did once have a saw career across the floor due to a defective switch.
    Good to hear that the Triton router has a fix for the problem - I just don't need another BIG router.
    Seems like nobody has come up with a solution - maybe I should tie a string to the router switch each time I install it - but then I would have remember to do that
    I do have a glimmer of an idea, if I get anywhere with it I will post it.
    Cheers
    GeoffS

  15. #89
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
    Age
    70
    Posts
    216

    Default

    You could always 'tie the piece of string around your finger'
    Regards,

    BigPop
    (I never get lost, because everyone tells me where to go!!!)

  16. #90
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Gold Coast,Australia
    Age
    49
    Posts
    350

    Default

    heres my router table setup.

    its pretty accurate, most of the time. just have to spend a
    bit of time checking the setting, then it powers along

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