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  1. #91
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Gold Coast,Australia
    Age
    49
    Posts
    350

    Default

    The image

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  3. #92
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Elimbah, QLD
    Posts
    3,336

    Default

    Here is my version of the Warner router-table fence, with echoes of Sturdee. Rodm will recognize the knurled brass knob (many thanks!). The block at the left is for mounting a dial gauge, to enable precise micro-adjustment.

    Rocker

  4. #93
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Elimbah, QLD
    Posts
    3,336

    Default

    This is the front view of the fence. Note the tasteful colour co-ordination.

    Rocker

  5. #94
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    196

    Default Router Fence

    Excellent design on the fence. I'm guessing it's very accurate
    Well done.

    Glen

  6. #95
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,060

    Default

    Gentlemen

    Interesting discussion. Routers and their associated tables are obviously an evocative subject. Are our creations part of the pleasure of using them? I think so. Consequently Derek Cohen likes using quality hand tools because they feel good and the router buffs enjoy the increased versatility of the table mounted router. Good for small pieces and good for small productions runs. Maybe essential for larger cutters.

    My first table was small and made from 18mm (I think) Plasply. It worked well, had short plasply legs and because of the nature of plasply, which is extremely slippery was ideal for a work surface. The router was recessed into the table and held with short metal buttons (made from flat bar). The fence was another piece of ply fixed at one end with a slotted groove at the other end and a bolt and wing nut to secure. It cost nothing. All materials were recycled from scrap formwork on a building project.

    That all went when I sold the router. The replacement needed a new table. I had access to metal working facilities and formed up a table from 5mm plate with 75mm sides. The folding process stress relieved the steel and left me with a level top. Some angle iron legs completed the process. Then I got too clever. I was pushed for enclosed space and planed to keep the table outside, minus the router of course.

    I had some other non woodworking items to be galvanised and threw in the router table to make up the minimum weight. It came up well as long as you discounted the distortion of the top that hot galvanising creates!

    Two further tables have been made from 32mm chipboard. The first one was mislaid. How can you mislay a 1500mm by 600mm board that size? So another table has been made again recessing the router. I recessed 22mm into the board. It does prevent the router (Hitachi M12V) travelling full depth as the handles foul the underside of the table, but I could rout out to overcome this. Hardwood timber buttons hold the machine in place.

    Fences have never been a priority. Anything with a true edge, normally just clamped on. This table just sits on saw horses, shares its space with a circular saw and has a small thicknesser at the other end of the table. I hear a stunned silence, but please calm yourselves. It is a temporary affair and surely at least one of the readers should admire its "kis" qualities.

    I have described this humble concoction so I can travel from the sublime to the ridiculous or is it the other way around? Anyhow I think Wayne Davey made reference to Dizzy's site, but he didn't mention Dizzy's links. Woodpecker in the States market the uni lift router base, which I have drooled over for some time. On reading "AWR" I noted there is now an Australian supplier.

    www.woodpeckers.com.au

    For the princely sum of $505 dollars plus pp & handling (at cost they say) you too can be the owner of what looks to be the Rolls Royce of such devices. Beautifully engineered in a delightfull, light metallic dung coloured finish; I want one.

    My problem is that I have to be able to justify such extravagances. I showed the device to my wife who to my surprise said why not (to the router lift that was) after all if you played golf you would spend more than that on the clubs.

    I immediately complimented her on her ability to rationalise and express such wisdom, although deep down I suspect an ulterior motive in that she has another project in the offing.

    Actually the jury is out on this one. My existing setup is good enough for my mundane construction projects, but I too would like to work with the good gear. Dream on. Santa, Santa what have you got in the way of...........

    Paul

  7. #96
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Port Pirie SA
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,908

    Default

    Is there any reason for not making the router table top out of mild steel plate?
    I made mine 3 yrs ago and it still hasnt warped...

  8. #97
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    11,464

    Default

    goes rusty
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  9. #98
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Port Pirie SA
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,908

    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by echnidna
    goes rusty
    not if you use it often!
    A small amount of car wax keeps it from rusting.
    You should see my table its a real bushpig the base is a old tank stand for 1 of those old 1000lt rectangle water tanks... and its a DIY at that, its made from old bed frames... not my creation, was the old owner of my house!
    The top plate is 3mm mild steel its about 800mm square the router is centraly mounted(mak3612c)there are 2x4 pine struts underneath about 100mm each side of the router.
    All I did was cut the opening with a 90mm holesaw and then drilled 4mm holes to line up with the 4 screws that hold the bottom slip plate on the router. The top is held down on the base frame by 2 F clamps at the rear.
    I mainly use this contraption for triming up MDF speaker boxes after I've glued them up(Im a speaker nut...)usually a straight trimmer bit or a round over bit with bearing is used, so I dont really have a need for a fence ATM. I do have a fence that I knocked up from some 2x5" pine its held inplace once again by F clamps... its like the rest of the contrapion looks horrid but it does the job. Ive made a few picture frames so far using the old baltic pine floor boards from my house they come up a treat you wouldnt think that they were made on this contrapion...
    All up the whole thing has cost me nothing, it doesnt loose much plunge depth(about 1mm)its solid and flat, as someone stated before "The KISS Theory" works well its done 3yrs service so far!
    Soon I will be getting more seirous about wood, Im making a coffee table/cabinet for my parents ATM for Xmas.
    So I will be making it better, a new base stand, then I'll hinge the top plate, add one of those remote swithces and make a decent fence so I can make up my new kitchen cupboards from all the baltic pine I have (approx3m3 worth) also have about 1m3 of jarra to make the bench tops out of. Insperation thanks to a Danny Proulx book, "bless his soul RIP".
    Last edited by Harry72; 6th December 2004 at 12:23 AM. Reason: added abit

  10. #99
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Port Pirie SA
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,908

    Talking

    Here's me bushpig table!
    Please excuse the messy shed...

  11. #100
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
    Age
    66
    Posts
    12,881

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller
    .... The router was recessed into the table and held with short metal buttons (made from flat bar).....
    .... Hardwood timber buttons hold the machine in place.....
    Hey Paul, I'm not sure what you mean by buttons to hold the machine???? :confused:
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  12. #101
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,803

    Default

    Harry

    That has got to qualify as the ugliest router table I have ever seen.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  13. #102
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Port Pirie SA
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,908

    Default

    But hey it works!
    I'll make it pretty one day...
    ....................................................................

  14. #103
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,060

    Default

    Cliff

    "Button" is really a poor description of the device, but I called it that because it is a method of holding table tops to their supporting frame and legs when you want to allow for timber movement. Maybe clamp would be a better description.

    In this instance, imagine the router sitting under the router table probably in a recess. In my old table the router base sat proud of the recess so a number of small bars about 50mm by 20mm could straddle the underside of the table and clamp on to the base of the router. They were held by a single 6mm bolt through the middle of the bar into the table and a wing nut for convenience.

    In my latest table I used hardwood. The buttons are twice as thick at one end as they have to reach into a deeper recess, but they still are held by a single bolt through the middle of the clamp. For strength, where the button changes to the extra thickness, I radiused the corner instead of making an angle.

    I hope that makes it clearer. The advantage of this system is that the router is relatively easily removed from the table by pivoting the buttons to one side. Also it does not rely on four rather small screws into the router base to take the weight of a machine that could weigh 6+ kilos. There is however some carefull positioning required so that the buttons do not get in the way of the router operation.

    I am of one accord with your Italian shoe technique. What can I expect for a pair of rubber thongs? Hold on, I have just recalled the Pommie connotation of thongs. I don't think we should go there! There again...

    Just by chance I had to modify my table yesterday. I was making some TGV boards and it became apparant that the tongues and grooves would not match because there was a 3mm sag in the table. The 32mm HMR chipboard had not been able to cope with the weight of the router, circular saw and thicknesser sitting on it. I think I might have leaned on it too hard as well.

    I fixed some 40 x 40 x 5 mm steel angle to the sides screwing the angle flush to the surface. Worked perfectly. Picked up the sag. I should have done it before.

    Regards

    Paul

  15. #104
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Blacktown, Western Sydney
    Age
    58
    Posts
    194

    Default dizzy's router table

    dizzy's table look very flash. If it wasn't for the sawdust on the floor around it I would say it had never been used.
    It looks almost too good to use in case it gets dirty or even scratched. :eek:

  16. #105
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Moo, G'day from CASINO NSW the real home of Beef.
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,336

    Default

    If anyone is interested, the modification to enable a Makita 3600br to be raised and lowered from top of table is dead easy, as a bonus on the bonus this can also increase travel by a whole lot & I reckon it would work on the later large maks as the 3612 series are the newer gen of my old girl and appear to have the same mechanism & base plate.

    In the photo the hole to the far right is the adjustment, a very snug fit for a #2 phil bit, and you can even use a cordless
    Bruce C.
    catchy catchphrase needed here, apply in writing to the above .

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