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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
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    3,784

    Default Challenge to Create the Ideal Router Table

    We have seen a number of excellent home made router tables on this forum and there are probably many more around that have not surfaced yet.
    With all these designs I am sure there are things that have worked well and there are bits that need to be changed to make it the ideal unit.
    The idea which has been prompted by FAQ thread by SilentC is to create a list of must have features/specifications for a home made router table. Perhaps a list of ideas that didn't work would also be valuable. A one stop thread that answers all you wanted to know to build the ideal router table.
    Table Size/height, materials, fences, routers, dust extraction.
    Let us know of your experiences.
    Cheers,
    Rod

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    63
    Posts
    1,291

    Default Router Table Mistakes

    I decided to make a router table as most of the commercial tables are quite small. I did well buying a router table insert from Jesada a mitre track and mitre square from Carbatec but the two major mistakes I made were not providing enough support for the 25mm MDF top which sagged in time and required a fix and the second mistake was to use a large piece of Tas Oak 1.2m long and 200m high attached to an aluminium angle as the fence. You guessed it the Tas Oak whilst straight when purchased didn't stay that way.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    158

    Default

    So it has to be flat. And the ideal dimensions are - -
    Pete J

  5. #4
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    May 2003
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    Canberra
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    Default

    That should be 200mm high.

    In regard to the ideal size I guess it depends on what sort of work you want to do. Don't forget to consider both directions. I went for a table about 1200mm x 800mm because I was looking for lots of support for large pieces held against the fence and perpendicular to it.
    I also use the carbatec tenoning jig on the router table. Slides nicely it the mitre square channel. One use of the jig is for the draw joint bit.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
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    3,784

    Default

    I agree with Matt. The fence should be as long as possible and as high as possible to support workpieces held vertical. This will accommodate the vertical panel raiser bits, etc.
    Matt has set the height at 200mm but has pointed out that hardwood is likely to warp over time.
    What about aluminium or steel angle with a facing of 12mm MDF.
    The angle needs to be at least 50X50X5 to provide rigidity.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,803

    Default

    Yes to extra support. Especially if you are considering a router table built into a tablesaw extension. See the thread at

    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...&threadid=6088

    I have used triangulated square sections to prevent sagging.

    As an aside, for anyone interested in building their own fence, I will try and find time this weekend to take mine apart and photograph it (the wonders of digital photography), and post them here.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Lakehaven, NSW, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    995

    Default

    For my money, start with Norm's router table:
    http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct3.cgi?0301

    Put it on good locking castors, and make it the right height to act as a saw table extension.

    Dust extraction seems to work best with a 4" DC hose running into the back, at the bottom of the area where the router is housed. A 2-2.5" hose running out of the back and into the back of the fence behind the bit picks up the stuff that gets thrown out behind the bit.

    I've got to build a new one myself - the one I built 2 odd years ago now now has a warped top - not supported well enough - and the bit storage could have been a lot better.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    3,784

    Default

    We are starting to get somewhere now. There seems to be a common problem of warping some time after the original construction.
    Perhaps the experts can advise us how to overcome these problems by choice of material and/or construction techniques. Derek I look forward to seeing your pictures.
    There is also a common theme of multiple use for the router table - rather than a stand alone unit incorporate it into an existing machine or make it mobile and park it as an outfeed table to another machine or as additional support for the assembly bench. If free standing the unit can be fitted with locking swivel castors for more flexibility in use and for parking out of the way in small workshops. Storage is an issue worth considering.
    This also resolves the height of the unit - it should be the same height as your existing woodworking machines. Am I right here or should this be slightly lower than the height of existing machines so timber does not get caught on the outfeed?
    For a free standing router table I am going to suggest a table size of around 900 x 600 based on the size of commercial units and that 900 x 600 sounds good at the moment - correct me if I am wrong. Where router tables are to be built into existing machines then the dimensions will be determined by the available space - i.e an extension wing that is hand forged from cast iron beer cans.
    I like Norm's fence as it has high support and adjustable gap at the centre. Derek's has an additional improvement with the mitre slot and feather board. Derek is your fence part of the table saw fence? It is a bit hard to see in the photo.
    For me the fence is a critical part of the design both for producing accurate cuts and for attaching the safety features like feather boards and guards.
    Darryl, the dust extraction is important but I am already having trouble putting the ideas together as it is. Once some of the major construction is settled on we can concentrate on the dust.
    I think we need a lot more feedback on this so feel free to criticise any of the above and add your suggestions.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    11,464

    Default

    MDF is inclined to sag a little as a router table top. Though my last one only had a laminex covered 1/4 ply top braced with baltic pine. Its still going well. Some of the online plans specify a double layer of 3/4 inch particle board for the top, which ought be rigid and very durable. As far as size goes 450 wide is practical even if mounting up a feeder. I think 900 a bit narrow and prefer 1200 especially without a feeder.
    My next table will be double pb with a 2.5 or 3mm aluminimum insert plate. The table is easy enough to make the key is making a well considered fence setup and accessories.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Duffy ACT
    Posts
    133

    Default

    I've been saving the old top from my recently replaced kitchen bench, for possible use for a router table. It is 15mm MDF with a 1mm laminate. I was thinking of bonding two pieces on the MDF side, leaving a laminate surface top and bottom. Any thoughts please?


    Johnno
    Growing old disgracefully...

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,803

    Default

    Johnno

    That is what I have used. It will be terrific as long as the surface is flat. Check it with a straight edge. I had to discard a few pieces when I was building mine.

    Incidentally, if laminate is used for one side, then it should be used on the other side as well, or some form of sealer applied to the underside. Otherwise it is likely that the panel will warp over time (due to different reactions to humidity, etc).

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Kempsey NSW
    Age
    66
    Posts
    1,140

    Default router table

    Roger Gifkins has a good plan on his website.
    Worth a look IMHO.
    I think from memory the site is www.gifkins.com.au
    but, if not, a quick search finds it easily
    cheers
    Jim
    Cheers
    Jim

    "I see dumb peope!"

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,803

    Default Details of Router Table Fence

    My router table fence was built around a 75 x 50 mm Aluminium section offcut.

    The subfences are made from MDF.

    The Feather Board (from Carba-tec) now doubles as a blade guard (previously I used a perspex guard, see earlier pics).

    The feather board slot was made from an aluminium molding offcut. It is screwed (so it can be removed, if necessary) onto the top. This slot also allows one to use a tall fence (e.g, for raised panels).

    The mitre fence slot comes from Carba-tec.

    Dust control is similar to the Triton system. The inside of the aluminium section is blocked off around the cutter (with pieces of jarrah). In practice this is sufficient. I did once made an enclosure for the router but found this unnecessary.

    There are a few other "goodies" that I will add below (biscuit joiner, jointer).

    I hope you find this useful.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  15. #14
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    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    Default

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