Thread: Are most common/ affordable router bits and bushings in Australia imperial?

An upcut bit will be fine for MDF. From the options you've presented a 13mm guide bush and an 8mm bit will likely be the most economical choice. I'm assuming you'll be using a 1/2" router so you'll need a 1/2" to 8mm collet adaptor, which you should be able to source from the place you get your bit from. These items are readily available from any of the woodworking retailers, Ebay, Aliexpress etc. When routing your holes ensure you cut in the climb cutting direction or you may find the bush unscrewing from the router base.

Thanks that's just what I needed! Climbing cut for routing an inner hole means moving a clockwise-rotating router bit in a anti-clockwise direction?

Also, this is probably a stupid question but I've never used a router bushing before and noticed people talking about centering it correctly. That means the router plate the bushing is attached to must be secured to the router base/plunge base while the centering pin has centered it all. Does that mean it's ok to use a 1/4" or 1/2" centering pin to centre the bushing+base to the router base then later swap the centering pin and put the 8mm collet + router bit in. Or do I need to center using the 8mm collet? (At which point I'd need a metric centering pin).

If your guide bush is a simple screw-in type then it is possible to unscrew it, but it’s not overly common. Some better made screw-in bushes have a locknut which practically eliminates any chance of coming undone.

However; there are also plate-type bushes which are attached to the router base. I much prefer these.

It boils down to what model of router you are using and whether you are using OEM bushes or aftermarket with a “Universal Base” system like Milescraft. What is your router?

Ok that makes sense. I haven’t seen those before! I have a Makita RT0700C and a Festool OF 2000e. These are my dad’s tools. He passed away recently after a short illness but we never got around to going through everything. He had lots of stuff which I’m still yet to go through so he might have what you mentioned.

It is not generally necessary to use a centreing pin when fitting a bush. As asked by Chief Tiff what router are you using and what bushing system are you intending to use? I use Makita routers exclusively and have never had to use a centreing pin. My routers use screw in Porter Cable type bushings AND they do unscrew if you're going the wrong way. If it's not 'overly common' it's common enough that I've had it happen 2 or 3 times. Why take the risk? There are some routers that have plates available to attach Porter Cable bushes to. On some trimmer/routers you are able to screw the bush directly into the router base. If you're intending to use a universal base you will need to centre the base using a pin. This would be a one off operation and would not be required to be done again.

The Makita will be too small to do this so go with the Festool. From what I can see it uses plate-type guide bushes so my first thoughts would be obtain an OEM bush from Festool or a quality aftermarket compatible one if they are made. Festool bushes use three screw holes, this is likely Festool’s way of trying to only allow OEM accessories as the majority of aftermarket bushes only use two. OEM bushes do not need a centering pin.

Next is an adaptor plate that allows Porter Cable type screw-in bushes with locknuts; having only done a quick search they appear to only be available from the US but you might find an Aus supplier. No centering pin is needed for these either if they are of a decent brand.

Lastly a universal sub-base from a reputable manufacturer will allow the use of their wide range of bushes. Trend and UKJ are very good, they’re British but available in Australia and their sub-bases will bolt straight on. They come with centering pins that you only need to use once in the initial set up.

If you are only needing the bush for making this MFT benchtop then just search out an OEM bush. There are many Festool owners on the Forum; a WANTED post in Marketplace might be the easiest way to score one.

HERE is a good reference guide to bushes. It’s US but the info is relevant pretty much everywhere.

The Cheif and I seem to have very different ideas on what is necessary to do this job. I have a Makita RTO700C and consider that it is more than capable of driving an 8mm spiral bit through 18mm MDF, provided you do it in three depth steps of 6mm each. Do you have the 8mm collet cone for the Makita? The fixed base takes standard Porter Cable bushes with no modification or accessory parts. If you want to use the plunge base you will need one of these - Menu icon - they are available from lots of retailers either singly or as part of a guide bush set. If you use either of these bases you won't need a centreing pin.

Although I agree that the extra power of the Festool would be preferable, unless you intend to do a significant amount of bush guided routing in the future, I can't see the point of going to the extra expense and trouble of buying and fitting an auxillary base to the Festool.

Sorry for the weird response timeline/ordering. I'm new here so my posts need to be approved before they are shown to everyone. The posts I'm making are before your responses but you don't see them until after you've responded!

I think I've understood everything here correctly. Thanks for your time and help guys!

Getting a custom ring for the festool might be a pain. I quickly looked but there's nothing I can immediately grab and get going. The Trend/UJK plates look like the best option there. I can also 3d print my own I guess. I wasn't aware the plunge attachment for the Makita accepts those screw in bases allowing porter style bushings, that's really convenient!

I haven't got an 8mm collet for the Makita but I think I found place to grab one.

I think we are simply approaching the job from different perspectives. The problem I see is a need to make many identical holes (an MFT top may have between 50 and 100 holes) in MDF; the method is to use a router fitted with a guide bush through a clamped template that can do 16, 20 or 24 holes at a time maybe? I have a choice of two routers; one is fairly lightweight that will need up to three passes per hole and the other is more powerful but will be more expensive to buy the guide bush for. Additionally the lightweight unit may be fixed base meaning that making the three depth adjustments will take slightly longer; and dust extraction will be poor (if any). The issues driving the decision are speed and cost; with possibly cleanup/dust control being another variable.

Personally; if I only had the Makita I would drill the holes to 16mm by hand first and finish with the fixed base/guide bush combo in one pass. I wouldn’t even bother with an upcut bit, MDF won’t splinter or spelch like wood so a cheaper 2 flute TCT bit would be fine, and then once every hole has been made I would use a chamfer bit on each hole to finish the job off. Cutting the holes straight off with a spiral upcut in passes will work in a plunge base, but I would be loathe to do it with a fixed base unit.

However; with a bigger Festool unit available I would be able to cut each hole in quick passes using the turret stop without stopping the machine and with better dust extraction. I would still use a basic 2 flute cutter and finish with chamfered edges at the end. The only issue will be buying the guide bush; it will undoubtably cost a little more than the Makita option and much more if there is a desire to invest in a sub-base and guide bush set for future projects.

To me the using the Festool offers the quickest way of achieving the desired result with the least amount of cleanup, but at a greater financial outlay. The Makita is cheaper but will take longer to do the whole job with more cleanup required.

Points noted and appreciated Chief. The Makita non-plunging base has very good dust extraction, but of course we don't know what the OP has in the way of appropriate equipment to collect that dust. Well worth collecting whatever you can in my opinion, MDF is horrible stuff. If using the plunge base on the Makita a turret stop is available. The Makita certainly has the power to do the job, the limiting factor being the grip length of the collet cone on the bit, hence the recommendation to stage the depth of the cuts. Drilling the holes to a relatively large diameter first is a good idea.

In terms of dust collection, I have a Festool dust extractor and one of those 2HP Carbatec ones. I see the UJK base plate fits the OF2000e and costs about $100. The guide bushes are ~$30. Interestingly, they don't have a 13mm but if all I need is a 2 flute TCT bit (which I'm pretty sure I have a selection of here) I'd be able to get away with a different size. For the Festool that's about $130-$150 + $? for bit if I didn't have one. For the Makita, I would definitely buy the base as I wouldn't be confident without it. That looks to be about $120-$160. Plus a bit which I definitely need and maybe a collet too. Then the correct bushing. Actually works out cheaper with the Festool!

It looks like the Trend adapter also fits Festool and is half the price. I read the instructions on that and the UJK with regards to centering and the Trend makes sense to me. The UJK... I'm clearly not understanding what's going on there. Instead of a centering bit, they use centering pegs. I'm not sure what gets adjusted as the previous steps say to tighten the base plate and the bush. I'm not sure they're actually for centering the bit for accuracy relative to the plate. I think it's just for centering on the material you're cutting. Maybe that system doesn't need centering.

Those pegs are for centering the router on a piece of timber; not for trueing the base to the spindle. Handy for routing slots or profiles right down the middle of a battern, or for cutting central mortises. They may believe that their base is so precisely made that simply attaching it to the base is all that is needed. The Trend follows roughly the same idea but the holes for the securing screws will have a slightly larger clearance to allow maybe 1mm of movement in any direction and allowing the exact centering of the base to the router spindle.

It would be worth contacting Trend and asking if they make a specific sub-base for that model; if they do it would probably cost less than the “Universal” sub base and also may not need centering.

Originally Posted by Norlo

Hi all,

First post! This has been nagging a beginner like myself for a while now so thought I'd come here and ask. I'm setting up a track saw station/work bench for cross cutting and wanted to go the MFT-style route. My biggest concern is getting the holes exactly square. ....
Thanks!

Hi Norio

My advice is a little different from what you may have asked and expected, and basically is that you change focus and direction.

I built a MFT about 18 months ago, and went through the very issues you are focussed on - how to drill the holes accurately. What happened was that a forum member with a CNC kindly made up a template for me, which used a router bit and collar to plunge all the holes. My MFT is about 1 1/2 times standard size.

But ... having used this now for 18 months, I now would do it differently. Basically, if your primary aim is to cross cut, you do not need many holes, and these do not need to be accurate. The MFT holes are really designed to meet a certain limitation, which is the absence of a hinged track. If you plan to cross cut, then you would be better off with a hinged track and fence.

I do use holes for stops and hold downs, but the accuracy of these is irrelevant.

Here is my set up:



I built the hinge and fence from aluminium, but they are available from a few makers. These get used for cutting; never the dog holes. okay, once I used the holes for a 45 degree cut.

More info on work holding can be found here: https://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powere...nery/MFT6.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek, yeah you've touched on where I was going with all of this. I've considered a hinge and have been flipping between buying one or making one. I'm discovering that making one (or anything really) is cheaper if you have a good workshop setup with years of collected "stuff". Unfortunately I don't just yet so having to buy things in order to build a hinge for example ends up costing more in some cases especially if you have to tweak designs and remake parts. I had a quick look at your site and saw the new aluminum hinge you've made. It looks awesome, I'll have to read through it all and see how viable it is for me. There's also a 3d printer one I'm tempted to try as my printer is quite decent.

You've also mentioned the fence and I've come up with a near identical solution. I was going to get 2040 or 2060 extrusion and tape on the measurements. To save on buying those quad fence bench dogs I was going to get a 4040 bracket (example) and fix it to the back of the fence with t-nuts. To secure it to my table, I was going to get UJK anchor dogs that require the chamfered holes and sit flush with the bench top. Since the bracket has 8mm holes and so too the UJK anchors, I was going to get an M8 hand bolt to secure the bracket+fence to the bench. If it's unstable I can always place a nut on the end the M8 screw under the table.

One other difference with the fence was the support under the track. This is all in my mind at the moment so it may not work out but here's what I'm thinking. I was going to 3d print multiple parts where each one is a common board thickness, 18mm (board thickness, 3mm, 6mm, 9mm, etc...) x 200mm (track width) x 20mm (t slot thickness) then on one end print a 50mm section that slots into the bottom of the fence. For supporting the start of the track, I was going to do a similar thing but make the piece much wider and deeper. On each side, make two M8 holes that line up perfectly with the closest dog holes. Then again use UJK anchor dogs and hand bolts. Then simply switch out the thickness depending on the material I'm cutting. To make it easier I could just buy multipel sets of anchor dogs and permanently attack each supporting plate. I don't think I need measurements on the track under the rail as I plan on making a ~300mm right-side fence.

The reason for the accurate/square holes was more because this will be a catch-all work bench for now not just a permanent crosscut station. Initially I'll just use the stanton dog locks for crosscutting and see how that pans out. I wouldn't rule out a hinge though!