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  1. #1
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    Default Should I use my compression bit to cut hinge mortises?

    Hi,

    The only router bit I have at the moment is the carbitool T2ESRM08

    It's a 1/4" shank, 1/4" cut solid carbide 2-flute compression bit.

    At trade school we have been using Ozito trim routers and craptastic straight bits.
    I use an edge guide to get the long edge of the hinge, and then I'll score the corners of the hinge with a knife and tap them out with a chisel, and pare to finish.

    I've got a dewalt D26204K router, and I'm still new to routers. Would my compression bit work for this application, or should I use a straight bit, if so what size works well?

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  3. #2
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    May 2011
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    Default

    The tip of your compression bit is an upcut grind. It will do a better job than a straight bit, but for the ultimate finish use a downcut bit. The upcut will do a very good job with the grain, but across the grain there is nothing like an downcut. Have a look at the photo's for a performance comparison.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #3
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    So are you saying that there's a certain threshold of depth on the compression bit, where only the upcut on the compression bit engages?

    What would you say is the minimum depth of cutting where you get both actions?

  5. #4
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    Default

    From what I can see, the crossover on the bit appears to occur at about 3-4mm

    Carbitool spec says 8mm...

  6. #5
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    Default

    How long is a piece of string. Measure the depth of cut on your bit before it engages the downcut ground section, it's highly unlikely to be within hinge dado depth range. I don't have a 1/4" compression bit, but on a Jinoo 8mm bit the downcut section engages at around 8mm depth of cut and on a Whiteside 3/8" bit it is around 6mm. As you can see they're a bit variable. There are some bits with a very short upcut section, but they tend to be the exception rather than the rule.

  7. #6
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    Default

    A compression bit is both downcut and upcut in one. The upcut portion of the cutter is usually one diameter in length. The rest of the bit will be downcut. So a 1/4" compression bit which has a cutting length of 1", will have 1/4" of upcut and then 3/4" of downcut.

    1" = 25.4mm
    3/4" = 19.05mm
    1/4" = 6.35mm

  8. #7
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    Default

    for a couple of hinges, it's almost certainly quicker and cheaper to use your sharp chisel
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  9. #8
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    Default

    Much easier to do it with hand tools.
    I am learning, slowley.

  10. #9
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    Default

    What type of material is the door?
    From my experience first use a sharp instrument to mark the outline. I generally use a 3/4" or 1" chisel depending on the hinge. Then depending on the mood, or the door use either a router with a 6mm bit and finish with a chisel, or do it all with a chisel. If the door is made of MDF, use the router as it is hard work with a chisel.
    The mortice is generally only 1.5 - 3mm deep so I don't think the type of router bit will make a difference. What is important is keeping the base of the router level as you remove material, and setting the fence for a neat long edge.

    The more you do the easier it should come and you will understand what I mean.

    Use what you have and save you $$'s unless you are unhappy with the result. Remember the mortice needs to be reasonably level, but nobody will see it unless the hinge needs to be taken off.

  11. #10
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Handyjack View Post
    The mortice is generally only 1.5 - 3mm deep so I don't think the type of router bit will make a difference.
    Technically, downcut is best, straight is fine, upcut or compression is the worst. That being said, if they're sharp it doesn't make a huge difference at that depth.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Handyjack View Post
    What is important is keeping the base of the router level as you remove material, and setting the fence for a neat long edge.
    That's why I was thinking a 1" straight bit = 1 linear pass = less moving around

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 44Ronin View Post
    That's why I was thinking a 1" straight bit = 1 linear pass = less moving around
    For jobs like that I tend to use two passes.

    If using a full-width bit, the slightest hiccup - the router leaving the fence/guide for even a microsecond - will leave an irrecoverable mark in one edge. (One edge can be cleaned up with a second pass, but t'other edge? A router can't add back mistakenly removed material!).

    For a 1" mortise I'd use a bit between 13-20mm. (>1/2" and <1").

    If using an edge guide on the router, I make the first cut on the opposite side from the guide. If using a fence, the first cut is instead done on the side closest to the fence.

    This way any 'hiccups' are cleaned with a secondary pass, while the other edge is still waste wood.

    I carefully reset the fence/guide to the other side of the mortise and repeat for the second cut. I do NOT just creep the fence over a few mm and cut again, that'd have exactly the same risks as a full-width cut and makes this approach pointless...

    After all, the whole idea is that in the event of an oops moment, I have a margin of error in the waste wood (or the void where it was) before the pooch is screwed.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  14. #13
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    Default

    What size bit?
    Assuming that your hinges are square, the smaller the diameter the more passes, but less to remove by hand in the square corners. The bigger the diameter, fewer passes but more to remove by hand for square corners.
    However if you have some fancy hinges with a round corner, then I would choose a bit that matches the diameter of the corner.

    The more hinge mortices you do the easier it will get. As this thread shows there is more than one way to do them.

  15. #14
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    Default

    Has anyone got or seen a decent adjustable jig for routing hinges?

  16. #15
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    Default Should I use my compression bit to cut hinge mortises?

    I’ve been hanging doors since the 80ies and my go tool is a trimmer with a 10mm parallel bit. As mentioned above, less to chisel out. Typically I only fit 100mm butt hinges so I have a jig that accommodates 3 hinges and all I do is use my fence on the router for depth and the jig sets the length and position on door and jamb.

    I have given thought to a new style of jig that is adjustable and uses a copy but .... to busy to develop that atm but time will tell.

    I just fitted a mortise lock recently and did not have a trimmer with me. The plate on the edge of the door was mortised by hand. What a pain. The timber on the door had grain going in every direction .... and with a plate about 250mm long I sure with I had a trimmer on site.


    Dave TTC
    The Turning Cowboy

    Turning Wood Into Art

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