Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 12 of 12
Thread: Help - assembling a router table
-
30th December 2016, 01:33 PM #1Hewer of wood
- Join Date
- Jan 2002
- Location
- Melbourne, Aus.
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 12,746
Help - assembling a router table
Wonder if folks can advise on this.
Some time ago I laid in some stuff for this and got sidetracked. Don't know what I was thinking but anyway having come back to it I find I have:
a universal adaptor plate
an acrylic sub-base
and of course a router and router table. See the pic.
Now there are only three holes drilled in the router base, and they line up with none of the holes in the other components (neither do the holes for the base 'liner'), so some holes are going to be drilled.
My questions are:
1. Will 3 holes be enough? They're only about 6mm and the router will have some punch.
2. Should I drill the holes in the table insert and ignore the adaptor/sub-base, or is there value in mounting the router to the adaptor and then to the table insert?
Router table bits.jpgCheers, Ern
-
30th December 2016 01:33 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
30th December 2016, 02:07 PM #2
I would ignore the sub base and adaptor plate. Neither gives very good clearance for larger bits.
I'm assuming the three holes in the router base are threaded. Three 6mm screws will hold the router perfectly well.
Take the phenolic base off the router and use it as a template to line up the holes for marking and drilling. You could leave it off when you attach the router to give yourself an extra 2mm of projection through the table.Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
-
30th December 2016, 03:13 PM #3Hewer of wood
- Join Date
- Jan 2002
- Location
- Melbourne, Aus.
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 12,746
Many thanks NCArcher.
Yes, the holes are threaded.Cheers, Ern
-
30th December 2016, 05:04 PM #4
Insert the grabbo pins into the cormthruster, taking great care not to damage the vertical helicons. The spod rod should still be visible through the small window in the grummet flange.
(with apologies to Nigel Molesworth...)
Wishing you all the best for a happy and healthy 2017, young Ern !
-
30th December 2016, 05:23 PM #5Hewer of wood
- Join Date
- Jan 2002
- Location
- Melbourne, Aus.
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 12,746
Nah, that's the 2015 model; the grabbo pins have been replaced by a racka pinyun.
Cheers Mr B - all the best!Cheers, Ern
-
31st December 2016, 09:28 AM #6Hewer of wood
- Join Date
- Jan 2002
- Location
- Melbourne, Aus.
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 12,746
Another puzzle ....
The collet won't readily come out of the locknut. Should it? I had to compress the free section of it with a hose clamp to get it to release, being reluctant to resort to tapping with a hammer.Cheers, Ern
-
31st December 2016, 10:27 AM #7GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2014
- Location
- Little River
- Age
- 77
- Posts
- 1,205
The locknut is captive on the collet so that when you unscrew the nut a bit more than the original amount to get it to release it will pull the collet out of the shaft to release the cutter. If you want to remove the nut off the collet find a piece of copper tube the right size that, when pressed over the collet, will compress it enough to enable it to be removed.
-
31st December 2016, 04:47 PM #8Hewer of wood
- Join Date
- Jan 2002
- Location
- Melbourne, Aus.
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 12,746
Okeydoke. Thanks.
Cheers, Ern
-
1st January 2017, 08:01 AM #9Hewer of wood
- Join Date
- Jan 2002
- Location
- Melbourne, Aus.
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 12,746
Well, amazingly there were three 6mm countersunk screws in my collection of metric stuff, and it's all gone together.
Now the aftermarket mushroom switch has to be changed from a magnet fixing to wood screws to go on the repurposed cabinet.
I take it that it's a good idea to fit the dust collection shroud that came with the router, to stop shavings getting into the case?Cheers, Ern
-
2nd January 2017, 03:13 PM #10
Ern, I'm not sure of the pros and cons, but we left the shroud on the router at the local Men's She'd. However, we did attach our dust extraction ducting inlet above the table. We also had to open up the port (attached to back of fence) to get the full benefit of the 4" ducting. It does a surprisingly good job given the tendency of routers to spray fine chips everywhere.
Stay sharp!
NeilStay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
-
2nd January 2017, 03:25 PM #11
-
2nd January 2017, 04:34 PM #12Hewer of wood
- Join Date
- Jan 2002
- Location
- Melbourne, Aus.
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 12,746
Thanks Neil.
Yes, this fence has a dust port too. Will check out how it goes.
Thanks Brett. Good to know.
Next job is to fit a Router Raizer.Cheers, Ern
Similar Threads
-
Assembling new table saw
By Peter Sparrow in forum GENERAL & SMALL MACHINERYReplies: 0Last Post: 4th October 2015, 08:44 PM -
Assembling Triton router puzzle
By Glennet in forum TRITON / GMCReplies: 8Last Post: 26th July 2010, 06:43 PM -
Triton Router table RTA300 VS Carba-Tec Cast Iron Top Router Table
By pellcorp in forum TRITON / GMCReplies: 17Last Post: 30th April 2009, 02:43 PM -
Help assembling a saw table
By Bushwhack in forum TABLE SAWS & COMBINATIONSReplies: 8Last Post: 9th May 2008, 08:31 PM