Thread: Inserting an insert

What brand is it ?

If it's phenolic, you really want 3/8 or 10mm thick. Thinner and you'll have issues later.

Normally you need about 1/2" rebate around the edge. In other words cut a hole 1"/25 mm smaller in both directions, then rebate out to the insert size and depth. The trick to a good router table is flatness. No sag, arches or lips. That way lies accuracy.

There are many variations on the insert. Some use magnets to hold the clearance rings in place, others screw or clip in. Your insert does have clearance rings doesn't it ? It's possible the insert has magnets inside it and the 4 magnets plus screws are for fixing them to the corners of your rebate.

The plate does not need ot be screwed down but it should be restrained form moving sideways as you work. The rebated hole should be a snug fit.

Because youve got a mof you might consider an insert plate that either accomodates the winder handle or that can be drilled for the triton winder handle. Personally I don't care much but many people really like the above table height adjustment. The handle comes as part of an accessory pack which includes guide bushes for your machine. Look for a special, and remember there are 2 guide bush packs for triton and only one has the handle.

I can't be more specific until I know what insert plate you've bought.

Thanks Damian. I bought theinsert from Carbatec and it is simply labelled "Router Table Insert". It has 2 snap out rings. I have purchased the accessory kit for the router which has the above table winder.

Cheers

Have a look at Professional Woodworkers Supply website there are instructions there for inserting a router plate.

Boy they really don't tell you anything do they ?

first how thick is it ? 6 mm 10 mm ?

This is a guess, and to get a proper answer you'll ahve to contact carbatec.

I am guessing that you either set the magnets into your table then adjust the height with the screws through the top or vice versa. Are the magnest just discs or do they have holes in them ?

I know that plate is cheaper than a lot of the others, but an insert plate is one of the most important things in a router table. You might have a false economy there and maybe you'd be better off returning it and getting a quality one. I'm just saying maybe, because without even instructions I just have to wonder about it.

I think you should contact carbatec and get some details. Generic instructions are fine but every plate is different.

Damien you don't need instructions from Carbatec you can Google router table insert online and you'll be flooded with how-to guides.

It is really very simple but it takes a little bit of care and a .5in x .5in square cut bit with a template-follower "guide" mounted above the bit, rather than below, as is usual.
1. Make a template by tracing your plate onto a thin MDF sheet.
2. Carefully cut out the insert shape with a jigsaw so the "hole" is the exact size of your plate.
3. Smooth the inside edges so that your new insert plate fits snugly inside the MDF template. Remove your new plate.
4. Measure the thickness of your plate and add about 3mm. That's teh depth-of-cut you want.
5. Use double-sided tape to firmly fix the template to where you want the plate to go on the new router table. Use plenty because you don't want any slippage.
6. Very carefully set the depth of your bit so that the guide runs along the template and the bit cuts a trough of the desired depth ( plate thickness plus 3 mm). Try it on scrap first and practice your technique because you don't get any second chances on the real table. Plunge the router and feed it very slowly clockwise.
7. Drill a couple of holes to suit a jigsaw blade on two of the corners of the trough
8. Cut out the inner waste of the plate appature with the jigsaw so that the blade removes the "island" in the middle and leaves as much of that "trough" all around.
9. Tidy up the cut with sandpaper and fit the plate.

I have the same router and a Woodpecker phenolic insert and the weight of the router is more than enough to keep that ol' baby firmly in the table.

Yeah but if you read the above more carefully you'd see he was asking what the magnets and screws are for.

I already covered routing the top and fitting the plate. That's not the question.

Hi and welcome aboard.

Someone was asking a similar question a few weeks ago and the answers came through. If its the insert that I think it is, the screws mount into a small tapped hole near each corner of the plate and are used as leveling screws to get the insert exactly flush with the table. The magnets are set into the lip around the insert openning in the top, and beneath the leveling screws. They provide a hard point for the levelling screws to work against and some lockdown due to the attraction between the screws and the magnets.

Hope that makes sense.

The insert plate from Carbatec is not phenolic - it will sag under the weight of the Triton.

The screws are for fitting into the four tapped holes in the corners and are used for leveling.

The magnets are glued into holes in the table rebate, under the position of the leveling screws.

They act to give a hard bearing surface for the leveling screws, and also hold the insert down.

Originally Posted by jchappo

The insert plate from Carbatec is not phenolic - it will sag under the weight of the Triton.

You'll need to back up that claim, John - any plate that will sag under the weight of a Triton MOF001 (1400W) router must be made of cardboard.

Ray.

Ray: Funny!

Reading the posts by others on this forum who've used various insert plates I'd guess if it's 1/2" or less you might have flatness problems. If it's 3/8" thick you should be ok.

Hi Guys

Many thanks to Damian, Pheonix, Dave, Malb, John and Ray for sharing your wisdom. I am much more knowledgeable about router inserts for your input.

Have contacted Carbatec and Timbercon. The insert I have bought is made from Bakelite and is 10mm thick. Timbercon have an aluminium insert 10mm thick. Could be the aluminium one is better? Both companies said that the Bakerlite insert will support the Triton router. Might have a look at the aluminium one.

Many thanks to you all.

Terry

10 mm thick bakerlite will be fine. The aluminium plate is $100 whereas yours is about $30 or $40 or something.

You get some good help on this forum don't you ...

Originally Posted by rayintheuk

You'll need to back up that claim, John - any plate that will sag under the weight of a Triton MOF001 (1400W) router must be made of cardboard.

Ray.

Its in my garage if you want to check it Ray

The Carbatec insert is probably a thermosetting plastic (I think that is the term) wich can warp with heat.
Its shiny - unlike the phenolic.
Also, it is not as thick as the Woodpecker phenolic plate.

I have had the Carbatec plate in my router table for a couple of years, and was quite satisfied with it.

After installing the Triton, after about 6 months, the accuracy of my cuts went right off.
Maybe the additional weight of the Triton, compared to my old GMC, plus some very hot days was enough to deform the plate.

Replaced it with the Woodpecker which is very nice and is very flat.