Thread: JIG Wanted - Self Closing Hinges

As you realise a drill press is the easiest way to make the socket for this type of hinge. I once saw one of the Big strong boys (a Foxtel show) doing them free hand with a Forstner bit though (cringe).

If you have a guide bush for your router you could make a simple bracket with a fence for the edge of the door and a plate with an appropriately spaced and sized hole in it for the guide the bush. that would probably work quite well I think.

Cheers

Dave

Darren/Felix
measure the size of your guide bush(a) and the router bit(b) you will use. 35 + ((a - b)/2) = size of hole required in your template. So if you are using a 12mm bit with a 16mm guide bush you will need a 37mm template hole. Drill this hole in a piece of ply, leaving enough space to clamp it to the door with the clamps clear of your router. You will need to screw a cleat to the bottom of the ply so that the edge of the finished hole (in the door, not the jig) is 2mm from the edge of the door. Also when you go to screw the other half of the hinge to the carcasse, the screws go on a line 37mm back from the front edge of the gable.

Mick

Originally Posted by journeyman Mick

Darren/Felix
measure the size of your guide bush(a) and the router bit(b) you will use. 35 + ((a - b)/2) = size of hole required in your template. So if you are using a 12mm bit with a 16mm guide bush you will need a 37mm template hole. Drill this hole in a piece of ply, leaving enough space to clamp it to the door with the clamps clear of your router. You will need to screw a cleat to the bottom of the ply so that the edge of the finished hole (in the door, not the jig) is 2mm from the edge of the door. Also when you go to screw the other half of the hinge to the carcasse, the screws go on a line 37mm back from the front edge of the gable.

Mick

Mick

It should be a 39mm hole required.
Diameter of hole required for the hinge + difference between template guide and cutter 16mm - 12mm + 4mm
Also check the distance in from the edge of the door from the hinge manufacturer as the space can be up to 5mm depending on the type of hinge.

Tom

Have to disagree with you there, Tom. You want a template that is bigger than the hole by half the difference between the bit and the guide. If the guide bush is 16mm and the bit is 12mm, then the difference is 4mm but you only want your template to be 2mm bigger, otherwise you will end up with a hole that is 37mm instead of 35mm.

Bugger, no you're right, the template is a 39mm hole. I'll just shut my mouth....

Check around as you can get a 35mm router bit here in New Zealand for doing the holes. Makes life a lot easier. I just mark a spot 21.5 mm (4mm in, plus half the 35mm) and plunge into it. Linbide do that bit here - not cheap as I think I paid about NZ$80 for it, but if you are doing a few doors, it's quick.

When do you subtract the number you first thought of?

Hi Felix

Originally Posted by `Felix`

G'day all,

I don't have a drill press so i would like to use my router to cutout for these little suckers.

I wonder if anyone has made a JIG for this purpose and if so could share the information (and a pic would be very helpful) with me.

Any and all information appreciated

Be gentle with me - i'm a noice

I see this message has been rekindled. I don't know if you still want or need info? However when I installed these hinges many years ago now, I purchased a "special" drill for the purpose (I think I obtained it from the supplier of the hinges) This drill was "like" a forstener bit though the shank was very short. This made the use of this drill bit in a hand held electric dril quite easy. I initially used the the depth gauge (inbuilt into the side handle of the drill to limit the depth). The drill bit had a small point for the centre and a solid "round block" in which the "blades" where machined.

I ultimately purchased a small stand for my (then) AEG drill and used this stand for many more hinge installations.

I cut a small piece of aluminium angle (it was about 40mm x 20mm angle and I cut it approx 40mm long) and measured/marked/ drilled small holes to suit the hinge screws. I scribed a centre line on both faces of the aluminium angle and used this to line uo with the hinge position. I had holes in the "jig" to position the centre hole for the hinge body, and two other holes for the hinge base that fits inside the cupboard.

Using one of those automatic centre puches (the type on which you press down to create the mark) I placed it in the required hole(s) and pressed. I worked my way around the doors and cabinet sides with this and marked all the holes then drilled where required.

Gee! That brings back memories. I just went and had a look, I don't have that one, but I have a similar one for installing knock down fittings (or is that knock up fittings )

Anway I have attached a picture of it for your information. This one has a hole on the narrow side for driling the "pin" hole (see other messages with photos showing the "pin" and the other bits that tie together), the other two mark the position of the hole for the threaded plastic insert (into which the pin screws, and the hole for the cam that pulls the pieces to gether.

Ask me, if you want / need some more info

Hmmm? For some reason I cannot attach an image to THIS post ???

I'll submit this message and try a follow up with the images I have

Hi

Here are some images that I could not upload earlier.

Hopefully they will be obvious when viewed, however please ask if you want to know more.

All,
another arithmetic mistake by me! The jig would be 2mm bigger all around = 4mm bigger. BTW, I've yet to see a 35mm carbide router bit for sinking hinges, all the 35mm carbide bits I've seen are meant for use in a drill press. BE CAREFUL! you don't want to put a drill bit in a router, think about what a chunk of carbide will do to your insides if it is spat out at 22000rpm. By my calculations (quite possibly faulty) a 35mm bit spinning at 22000rpm would have a tip speed of about 145km/h - ouch!

Mick

hettitch have a realy good marking jig for these hinges, cost me about $4 some months back part number #00351 does 28 & 35 mm spacings.
http://www.hettich.com/hft/diy/data/...arniere_ze.pdf

Originally Posted by BigRed

Check around as you can get a 35mm router bit here in New Zealand for doing the holes. Makes life a lot easier. I just mark a spot 21.5 mm (4mm in, plus half the 35mm) and plunge into it. Linbide do that bit here - not cheap as I think I paid about NZ$80 for it, but if you are doing a few doors, it's quick.

I already had two drills that could have completed the job quicker but I was responding to could it be done with the router. Also it is convenient to have a simple jig when out on site.
I will draw up my jig and email it to those who may be interested in making one.
Tom

Originally Posted by journeyman Mick

BTW, I've yet to see a 35mm carbide router bit for sinking hinges, all the 35mm carbide bits I've seen are meant for use in a drill press. BE CAREFUL! you don't want to put a drill bit in a router, think about what a chunk of carbide will do to your insides if it is spat out at 22000rpm. By my calculations (quite possibly faulty) a 35mm bit spinning at 22000rpm would have a tip speed of about 145km/h - ouch!

Mick

I guess we in NZ are a bit ahead of you in Oz. Check out http://www.linbide.co.nz/product.php?sid=&pid=306 for the 35mm boring bit for a router, allowing use at up to 20,000rpm. See something new every day, huh Mick?

Hi Felix (et al)

Attached is an image of the drill bit to which I referred in an earlier post.

This drill was "like" a forstener bit though the shank was very short. This made the use of this drill bit in a hand held electric drill quite easy. I initially used the the depth gauge (inbuilt into the side handle of the drill to limit the depth). The drill bit had a small point for the centre and a solid "round block" in which the "blades" where machined.

I bought this MANY (about 25) years ago. The suppliers referred to it as a krefting bit (it has Krefting stamped in the shaft). This bit is 35mm. I have a smaller 26mm bit for the knock down fitings discussed in the previous post & images.

Makes drilling a hole for the concealed hinges as simple as drilling almost any other hole.

Regards

Peter