Thread: Jointing on the router table

First of all you need to ensure that both sides of the fence are parallel and co-planer.

If this is correct and the work piece still hits the outfeed then you need to advance the cutter a bee's todger. It's ok for the cutter to be proud of the fence by a few thou.

WARNING This could be dangerous!!!!
If and when, I NEED to do this, I run the timber between the cutter and the fence, from the opposite end to normal.
This is only done on narrow pieces, not wide boards.
This is not the preferred method, I know, as I said initially, it's on an as NEEDED basis, when nothing else is available.
Kryn

If you used 0.8mm shim in the outfeed fence you need to have the cutter set so it is 0.8mm proud of the infeed fence. The cutter needs to be in line with the outfeed fence or even very slightly proud of it.

The credit cards are thicker than 0.8mm.

Thanks for the replies.

I measured the thickness of the particular credit cards I used with a digital caliper so I am confident of the thickness.

I set the router bit to be in line with the outfeed fence using a steel ruler.

I believe the fences to be parallel but who knows.

I will try to make the cutter a littleproud of the fence and try again

It would pay to check that your fence halves are parallel by removing the shim and place a straight edge across both of them. It won't work if they aren't.

If you are feeling handy, you could make an imitation Incra Wonder Fence.

Its split in the centre, allows a differing gap and uses a sliding offset to do the jointer thing.

i do this all the time with a spiral carbide bit. It works very well indeed. I sold my jointer as I do this when needed... I never use timber more than 55mm thick, so it works well.

I saw KB's suggestion and wouldn't recommend it at all. A small mistake and you've created a high powered linear accelerator, plus the bit is outwardly exposed. That gives me the severe willies! Routers are so massively powerful that you need to really play it very safe.

Originally Posted by woodPixel

i do this all the time with a spiral carbide bit. It works very well indeed.

Hi woodPixel

Do you use an up cut or down cut bit? Does it make a difference which one?

Cheers

Tiger, I use a flush trim bit which has a bearing at the top in perfect alignment with the cutters. I position the bit so its about 0.5mm in front of the infeed fence. I then loosen the outfeed fence and with the use of a straight steel ruler running against the outfeed fence I push until the ruler hits the bearing. As a check I run the ruler towards the bearing from the outfeed side and make sure it just hits it enough to make the bearing spin. I get perfect results each time except when I don't concentrate and push the timber towards the bit instead of straight at the end. That bearing makes all the difference to getting that crucial alignment on the outfeed side. Do you have a flush trim bit?

Originally Posted by MikeJ

Do you use an up cut or down cut bit? Does it make a difference which one?

For the router table I've always used upcuts for spiral work.

My thinking (and what I've been told) is the upcut bit pulls the timber down to the table. If one were to use a downcut, the bit would be trying to lift the work up. Now, I don't know how true this is, or how dramatic the effect might be, but it makes sense.

The downcuts are reserved for dado work (boxes, displays, etc).

I do a lot of work on that router table and other than the exceedingly rare part-flinging launch, I've had no accidents.

I have a few of the regular bearing style cutters but the spirals are absolutely superior.

Originally Posted by woodPixel

If one were to use a downcut the bit would be trying to lift the work up. Now, I don't know how true this is, or how dramatic the effect might be, but it makes sense.

It's true and the lifting force can be quite dramatic with any of the larger diameter bits. Maintaining control over the stock is an absolute necessity.