Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 46 to 52 of 52
-
18th April 2019, 10:01 PM #46Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2013
- Location
- Whian Whian
- Posts
- 28
Tom....Thanks for your input. Your summation is correct, and I started off from that vantage point, focussing on safety per bit quality AND the process itself. Certainly, the advantages of forming the large, yet shallow concave depressions by means of lowering then pressing the stock down upon the router bit were the time saving and the ease of operation. It would appear that you are saying that a jig to hold the stock with the router fixed above, then manually plunged down for each hollow is the only really safe way to do it. Hmmm, I see clearly what you mean, and never having lowered a piece of 1 inch stock onto a 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 inch wide router bit, I don't actually have a realistic idea of what it feels like! Hence this forum I guess.....
And Aldav, you are also most likely correct! Maybe I should try to find a GERMAN router bit!! More seriously, I'll most likely go down the Arden Routers path.
I wonder if anyone has tried to do what I originally described, and could tell me whether the blasted thing was ripped out of their control?? That being said, Elan's jig concept is bound to be of great assistance.
-
18th April 2019 10:01 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
18th April 2019, 11:32 PM #47Taking a break
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 34
- Posts
- 6,127
I gotta disagree with that; plunging from the top might be a bit safer, but I certainly wouldn't say that doing it in a table is unsafe. Just be sure to have one edge on the table and hard against the stop (the right hand edge when facing the table, as the rotation of the bit will naturally keep it pulled to the fence), then lower the other edge as if it's connected by a hinge. Don't try to drop down flat from the top, THAT'S definitely not safe.
-
19th April 2019, 12:12 AM #48Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2013
- Location
- Whian Whian
- Posts
- 28
Feels like a game of "Piggy in the Middle", and no prizes for guessing which player of the three that I am!! Thanks for the reassuring explanation, Elan, 'cos that is the exact methodology that I had developed in mind. If the work piece winds up in the surf at Byron Bay, I'll get you to swim out and grab it!! I'll go ahead and source a router bit and let you know the outcome: I'm also interested in how many holes I can get through before the carbides start to dull. Thanks again mate.
-
19th April 2019, 12:54 AM #49Template Tom
- Join Date
- Apr 2003
- Location
- Perth Western Australia
- Age
- 90
- Posts
- 784
-
19th April 2019, 08:24 AM #50Taking a break
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 34
- Posts
- 6,127
-
19th April 2019, 11:31 AM #51Template Tom
- Join Date
- Apr 2003
- Location
- Perth Western Australia
- Age
- 90
- Posts
- 784
-
19th April 2019, 12:52 PM #52Template Tom
- Join Date
- Apr 2003
- Location
- Perth Western Australia
- Age
- 90
- Posts
- 784
Similar Threads
-
Router bit quality and range
By Wol in forum ROUTING FORUMReplies: 28Last Post: 2nd December 2022, 11:37 AM -
QUEENSLAND CNC Router - 6090 Heavy Duty Quality - Brisbane Region only.
By Billyboydes in forum WOODWORK - Tools & MachineryReplies: 2Last Post: 6th June 2017, 03:46 PM -
using a router to turn a shallow concave??
By HSS in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 6Last Post: 30th January 2012, 04:52 AM -
Router bit quality testing
By aniceone2hold in forum ROUTING FORUMReplies: 8Last Post: 5th October 2006, 03:36 AM