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  1. #1
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    Default Larger quality router bit for concave hollows?

    I'm thinking about a project which will involve quite a few concave hollows each about 32 - 35 mm diameter and about 12 - 15 mm deep, using a Triton TRA 001 (circa 2000 model?) in a Triton Router Table. Since I'll be doing quite a few in timbers ranging from Queensland Maple, Silky Oak to Camphor Laurel, and want a pretty good finish, I'm looking for advice as to a quality bit that will last with minimum wear. Can anyone advise me as to a reliable brand, and possibly a source, especially if it's in the Northern Rivers region?

    Additionally, when running the job, I'm thinking of pressing the rectangular workpieces down onto the router bit, registering the far long edge to the fence, and the left edge to a stop which is perpendicular to the fence. I anticipate being able to the lift the workpiece without the bit burning the resultant concave hollow or catching the outer edges of the hollow.... in your expert opinions, does this sound like a watertight and safe procedure??

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  3. #2
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    Carbitool. Made in Melbourne, excellent quality and available online from various distributors (you could possibly call them direct and order over the phone as well) CARB I TOOL Australia Pty Ltd.:.Sharpening services, Saw Blades, Router Bits - Catalogue

    Your process sounds pretty good (at least, that's how I'd be doing it), just make sure you have a stop clamped to the fence for the start position as well as it might try to push back as you drop on. Also, try not to let the bit sit in one spot for too long where possible; as soon as your down, start feeding and lift as soon as you hit your end stop. That being said DO NOT RUSH, a little burning is a small price to pay for safety.

    Given the bit size, it's probably worth running them in multiple passes too with the last pass being just 1mm deep for a clean finish.

  4. #3
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    CHRIS

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    Given that they need to be stopped rather than run all the way through, no they can't. Doing it on a table saw also gives you an elliptical profile, rather than a true round.

  6. #5
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    I don't see why not, you can still lower the piece onto a saw blade with minimal protrusion above the table and push it perpendicular to the blade.
    CHRIS

  7. #6
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    If you're pushing perpendicular to the blade, your radius is fixed at the size of the blade; the OP has a required depth and width which is not possible running perpendicular and which would be extremely elliptical and have tapered ends if the work was fed at an angle and stopped

  8. #7
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    So a minimum of 5/8" (16mm) radius. There are any number of high quality bits available, Carbitool being one of them as noted by Elan. I've always found Arden router bits to be of the very best quality and still at a reasonable price. They can be sourced through Carbatec or online through Aliexpress.
    https://www.carbatec.com.au/arden-co...-19-05l-15-87r
    https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...621573066.html
    https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...695453191.html

    Don't be put off by the fact that these are made in China, they really are excellent. The A0502518 (15.9mm radius) or A0502538 (17.45mm radius) would appear to most closely meet your requirements

    Depending on the length of the stock you are dealing with you may need to fit an auxiliary fence to be able to use a stop. If the stock is particularly long you might have to forego a stop. I'd be more inclined to use a feather board than a fixed guide on the left side of the stock.

    Although coves can be cut on the table saw the radius and finish you require would seem to make it unsuitable for the job and the ends would have to be fashioned by carving/chiseling.
    Forum members PM me for a discount on all my products - https://www.ebay.com.au/str/aldavsstore

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    If you're pushing perpendicular to the blade, your radius is fixed at the size of the blade; the OP has a required depth and width which is not possible running perpendicular and which would be extremely elliptical and have tapered ends if the work was fed at an angle and stopped
    Yes you are right but it is far from it can't be done at all.
    CHRIS

  10. #9
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    Thanks very much guys for the great feedback: Elan, in particular, your multiple pass suggestion certainly will add to processing time, but is a great hint in terms of the final finish .. and the safety perspective. Thanks for the sawblade suggestion Chris, but I really need a circular profile when viewed from directly above, and I don't think I'd get sufficient depth. And Aldav, that's great information, but I really have to admit that I'm very wary of Chinese quality, having been disappointed on the quality front more than just occasionally. However, I am tempted by the radius dimension of the larger bit that you have mentioned. If Carbitool can match the size, I'm tempted to run with their bit. That having been said, are you saying that Arden is a step above anyway??

  11. #10
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    The company that manufactures the Arden branded bits makes a range of qualities, Arden are the best (referred to as Professional), Huhao are next (referred to as Industrial) and then there's 'the rest'. The Arden bits are quite expensive by Chinese standards, you can pick up an unbranded Chinese made bit of those dimensions for around $8, but I wouldn't recommend it. If you follow Elans' advice concerning multiple passes you won't be disappointed with the finish you achieve with the Arden bit.

    You really can get any quality you're prepared to pay for from China - pay peanuts, get crap; pay for quality and you can get it.
    Forum members PM me for a discount on all my products - https://www.ebay.com.au/str/aldavsstore

  12. #11
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    I buy Arden pretty much exclusively now, or Huhao if I can't get the bit I want with Arden branding. They're very good.

  13. #12
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    Thanks Stu for the Huhao referral. I must say that I seem to have more problems than most with finding the right router bit gear on the internet, which is largely due to being on this wretched NBN Satellite connection: like it wasn't working at all last night on the Carbetec sites etc. My follow up searches from Elan's & Aldav's recco's didn't give me much resolution partly because of what I just said, but also because most of the router bits which seemed to have the right 32 - 35mm diameter, and the 12 - 15mm depth were fitted with a bearing which is exactly what I DON'T want. The idea is to have a shallow concave hollow cut into a flat surface. Which is why I really prefer to be able to TALK to a retailer/supplier personally. Old fashioned perhaps, but I also like to keep local retailers supported. Up here, near Lismore, there are very few such people, so I may have to find someone at one of the retailers you guys have mentioned with whom I can chat my needs through. So my last query: which retailers in your experiences are more than willing to chat such things through??

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat the Rat View Post
    ..... most of the router bits which seemed to have the right 32 - 35mm diameter, and the 12 - 15mm depth were fitted with a bearing which is exactly what I DON'T want.
    When I have had that situation I have removed the bearing and ground off any shaft protrusion. As long as you are not plunging the cutter will work perfectly. If you have to plunge do it while moving the router horizontally.

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat the Rat View Post
    My follow up searches from Elan's & Aldav's recco's didn't give me much resolution partly because of what I just said, but also because most of the router bits which seemed to have the right 32 - 35mm diameter, and the 12 - 15mm depth were fitted with a bearing which is exactly what I DON'T want.
    What you want is called a core box bit. Here's the catalogue page CARB-I-TOOL - Router Bit and Accessories Catalogue - NOVEMBER 2015

  16. #15
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    Thanks Elan....the two larger bits (page 15) may be exactly what I need.

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