Thread: Makita 1/2" Plunge Router vs AEG router

FWIW I just bought the AEG router from Bunnings for $199 2 days ago to replace a 3 year old Ozito with a bung plunge mechanism, I think the equivalent Makita version was around $500. Only tried out the AEG twice so far, once in my MK3 Triton table, no issues so far.

Sorry I can't go into too much of a detailed comparison because I'm a newbie to routers myself.

cheers
Derek

Matt
I am 100% convinced that you will be very happy with the Makita router (work with four of them) plus others I have never used the AEG so I cannot comment on it. One of the the advantages of the Makita is that Template guides are readily available for use
Makita is a great router and if I was to purchase another router it would be a Makita
Tom

Originally Posted by NewLeafWoodwork

Hi Everyone,

I'm posting today as I'm in the market for a router (my first one). I've been looking at Makita & AEG 1/2" routers and just wanted your thoughts on which was more preferable (or if there's a better option/brand you'd recommend). I would be using it for basic edging of tables & desks and some free hand work & design. I've been told 1/2" is the way to go in terms of stability and precision but I'm also limited by my budget. Any thoughts on what could be a good choice?

Cheers,
Matt

I have had the AEG for a little over 12 months. Thus far its not had an easy life, and has proven itself worthy of anything I have thrown at it. Solid machine, very accurate. Pretty good value for money if you're looking at a cheaper alternative than the Makita.

i bought a festool, and now wished i had bought the makita and saved myself $400

the makita is a solid machine. you wont be disappointed.

I'm in a similar boat, looking to get my first router. I don't have much of a budget, but I don't want to get something that's going to break in 5 minutes either. I plan to use it both mounted and by hand. Right now I'm trying to decide between the $200 1350W AEG 1/2", the $430 1850W Makita 1/2", and the $330 1700W Hitachi 1/2" routers. Currently I'm leaning towards the Hitachi, as I've heard that brand is rock solid. I've got a few Makita tools and they're pretty good older ones, but I can't see much justification for the difference in price. I've never heard anything bad about AEG, but then I've not heard much about them at all. It does seem like you get a fair bit for not much. Not sure how much grunt a router really needs, but I would think it should probably have enough.

Also, how important is variable speed in a router? Both the Makita and the Hitachi have more expensive, more powerful variable speed versions. Is it worth the extra cost? Should I just wait for a second hand one to pop up on Gumtree or the like?

Variable speed is useful if you are using larger bits. Think of the speed of the edge of the bit.
Also look for soft start - more so if you a doing any hand held work.

I agree with Handyjack on both counts.

I have a 32YO Mak 1500W plunger, a 2400W Triton, and a 1200 Aldi. The Mak is single speed on/off, and it takes a lot of effort to secure on start up. Luckily it is a plunger so can be started with the base in contact with the work for support, then plunged to start the cut once stable and under control. Haven't used a fixed base style in this power range but if they kick like the Mak and had to be started clear of the work (no plunge facility), I think I would prefer not to, thanks.

In comparison the other two with softstart and variable speed are easy to start and control as they wind up over a couple of seconds instead of about a tenth of a second. Much less reaction to control.

Most bit manufacturers recommend progressive speed reduction for bits over around 22mm diameter to limit the tip speed of the bit. This includes most profiling bits beyond a 3/8in (10mm) roundover, panel raising bits, rebate bits and slot cutters. Bit manufacturers will normally include speed ranges for bits on their web sites, either in the form of a general table for bit diameters, or recommended speed for individual bits.

These days I would not buy a 1/2 collet router without variable speed, it it can take 1/2 inch bits sooner or later it will get used with a bit that needs to run slower than 22K.

Good advice guys, thanks for clearing that up.

A few follow up questions:

1) If you were to buy a 1/2" Variable Speed Router, what would you be looking for? Any solid recommendations for a good, multi purpose router that'll last years and won't cost the earth would be greatly appreciated.

2) With regard to router bits, I've noticed there is a LOT of difference in price. Bunnings has red ones, which I vaguely recall from high school, for a fairly reasonable price, but Carba-Tec seems to flog a lot of expensive orange ones. How important is it to get an expensive bit?

3) As a beginner, what bits am I most likely to use often? My general rule is to only buy things as and when I need them, but sometimes it's worthwhile getting a kit or a good starting collection.

Unlike cars, the colour of the body is not a good indication of bit performance.

Some of the better bits come naked, while others come with some form of coating which is claimed to reduce pitch buildup and offer low friction. Some of the cruddier brands apply a coat of paint with no real benefits, but hope that it will elevate them up there with the big name boys in the customers eyes.
Particular brands will opt for a signature colour and stick with it as is effectively part of the brand identity, like their trademark.
The things to consider with bits is the quality of the carbide used for cutting faces, the machining quality of the blank, balance, grinding of the cutting edges, and the quality of the bearings if fitted. Another issue is the availability or replacement bearings, locking screws and retaining collars. Bits become useless if the bearings or screws are odd sized and cannot easily be replaced.
Some kits offer 50+ bits in a box for $100 plus shipping, that works out that the individual bits cost less than the bulk purchase wholesale cost of a quality bearing for an visibly similar quality bit, there have to be corners cut somewhere.
The seem to be one or two places that clear excess inventory of quality bits most of the time, bit the clearance range can be limited. Beyond that cheap bits are generally not worth the hassle, unless you know that you have fairly limited need for the bit, eg you have a 1 off need for a few metres of specialty moulding and a choice of a $20 bit or a $100 bit.

Lol, I was using the colour of the bits in lieu of a brand name I couldn't remember :P

I've been looking at using a scratch stock to make beadings and such, so I'd probably not actually need that many bits, just ones for rebates and the like. Which means, I can afford to go for a little better quality. That said, what IS quality with a router bit? Being standard is nice, but how do I know that what I'm getting is any good. Are there any very reputable brands? Or should I just get a few bits from different companies and see how they go?

I only have limited exposure to routers also but in my experience i have bought a few bits from bunnings that were of the brand Diablo. 2 of these bits were chipped when i unwrapped them lol im sure that its just a botch up on the mannufacturing line rather than being tampered with but still.. pretty poor effort. Im sure this isnt the same with everyone im sure some people have had good experiences with them.

I have been drawn towards CMT which you can get from carbatech and elsewhere. These bits are very good quality and have produced some great cuts for me so far.

I was watching some Wood Whisperer, and he said something about router bits which have a backwards tilted blade, like a spiral, are better quality and produce a better cut. That seems intuitive to me but I'm wondering if other people have had the same experience?

There are two families of these bits, with different degrees of twist.

The first set are shear bits where the carbide has a fairly shallow skew or shear. They are available in upcut and downcut, depending on whether the slope on the carbide tends to push chips up or down. They have generally been used as flush trim bits for materials with a thin easily damaged face, like veneer ply or coated MDF sheets for kitchens etc.
They are good for situations where you need to eliminate chipping on one face at the expense of possibly making the other face worse. A downcut bit uses the core material to support the top face as the bit shears down while cutting, but there is downward force from the shear and no support for the face on the lower face so it is more prone to chipping. The same applies in reverse for an upcut shear bit, the core supports the lower face but nothing supports the upper face. Some manufacturers are starting to use the same technology for profile bits as well now.

The second family of bits are carbide spiral bits. These are ground from solid carbide blanks and the shear angle is much more radical than that of the shear bits. There are three groups in this family, upcut (excellent chip clearance for mortices, possibility of top face chipout), down cut (excellent chipout avoidance on the top face but poor chip clearance for non through cuts), and compression bits, which are designed for cutting specific thickness coated sheet. They use a downcut at the shank end and upcut at the tip so that the bit is cutting toward the sheet core on both faces, supporting the film on each side. The spiral transitions (reverses direction) near the middle of the sheet, so intended sheet thickness becomes a factor in the bit design. They are not normally available for sheets thinner than about 12mm due to the hassles in getting the transition point into the space and retaining good chip clearance.

Don't want to get too specific about who's bits rate as quality and who's don't, but generally you shouldn't have issues with Carb i Tool (local), CMT, Freud, (both European), Amana, Whiteside (US). Others will have other brands that have given them a good run.

Thanks a lot for the info malb. I have a pretty good idea what to look for when I get my router now