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Thread: Metric?
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14th October 2016, 02:07 AM #16
Further comments
You rarely need to buy bits that are metric or imperial when it comes to the cutting heads. As per comments above, the shaft matters, but as for the head it's almost meaningless.
No one will know or care if your roman ogee is metric! Straight cutters will not be the same after a single sharpen... Plus that 18mm ply you bought... Is not going to be 18mm. You must always measure your kerfs and test cut.
Invest in a Bridge City Kerfmaker. KM-1 Kerfmaker - Bridge City Tool Works these are witchcraft, voodoo, magic all rolled into one. They perform magic daily in my studio. It's like a good party trick for guests!
The only time accuracy in bit size is critical is for dovetail joints. These are always with imperial bits, for nobody does metric (except for the token 1 or 2 of them). I learned this the hard way after a long argument with Incra and Leigh Jigs. I was left well beaten after that run in!
One last comment, please don't buy cheap bits because the kit has 102 bits for $39.95... It's a world of pain. I've had some very small (and expensive) bits break on me while working on fine or almost finished work. The break gouges in and frigs it all up... Damaging your careful work leaving you cursing. What a major bummer that is. It's pain I'd prefer to avoid.
Question - how are you using the router as a thicknesser?
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14th October 2016, 02:32 AM #17
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14th October 2016, 07:22 AM #18
Hi
The issue with router bits Imperial or Metric is not the size marked on the pack or on the shank of the bit but the size it actually cuts. Fortunately the majority of router work is done in 2 passes so you control the finished cut width not the router bit.
The old adage 'you get what you pay for' usually applies, plus something spinning at >20,000 RPM needs to be well made to be safe.
Enjoy routing.
Regards
Grahame
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