Thread: Mounting 2 routers on one table?

What you want to do will work... provided you pay due attention to detail.

The result would be fine for spaced decking, so long as you don't mind the rustic look. (and/or really enjoy floor sanding)

I wouldn't like to rely on the result for close jointed floor-boards or building furniture though, as a thicky without a jointer literally cannot ensure squareness or remove warp/twist.

Thanks Skew, rustic is fine. Wide-ish board spacing is fine, lets the rain go through and the cool breeze come up from under the house. This is really going to be a bit of a hobby thing for me, something to get some return from the trees that we need to fall to get the Bushfire Attack Level rating down. I found out the hard way just how well treated pine burns and how well Australian hardwood can survive a fire. I have no idea what they use to "treat" treated pine but whatever it is, there is a lot of it laying around where our buildings used to be!

Bit confused but if you mean milling from green - then will always have to be done again-Thickness will also be pointless until seasoned. Shrinkage will happen Just will-till stable-then things can be decided-but will still move as well -just less so.

For decking boards, milling from green timber is fine for me. One can allow for shrinkage as the floor is laid or one can season the milled boards. Milling "green-off-saw" was the way it was done up here years ago when the shaper cutters were all HSS. Boards came off the saw bench and into a stack then when the stack was big enough they would do a "run" on the planer for either decking boards of T&G. The finished boards then went out into a stack to season out or were packed up as GOS and sold. Those packs were all random lengths, long on the outside to hold everything together and a mixture on the inside. Some mills would "end-groove" T&G boards (it was a requirement for boards for the Housing Commission).
Today, all boards are Kiln Dried so you now need to let them "acclimatize" before you fix them off which is almost as much of a problem as putting them down green. One way you get gaps, the other way you get boards lifting off the floor joists because they swelled up with moisture. When the wood worked out what it was going to do you nailed it off and got the floor sander in and finished the job. Old builders would often lay a T&G floor upside-down, do the plastering and painting etc. and then lift the loose boards, turn them over, re-lay the floor (which was now acclimatized) sand it and do the final fix of the architraves etc.