Thread: ouch!

Originally Posted by BobL

I'm not that big of a router used but all this brings up the question, why don't router tables have a transparent overhead guard?

Here you go Bob, from Jessem:

http://www.jessemdirect.com/product_p/04215.htm

(it doesn't have any wrinkles in it either )

I like the idea of the angled roller wheels too (and a number og their other products including the Mitre Slide).

These have been around for awhile too:

http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-W110.../dp/B0000223VK

You can get them in different configurations and they include one-way action for anti-kickback.

Silent, I saw those in operation extremely briefly in a video i recently saw. I thought they looked like a good idea. Something to ponder though: if they have enough resistance to hold a board down firmly then as the edge of the board approaches them for the initial wheel lift surely there must be quite a bit of resistance if the wheels rest on the table? I may well have that wrong and the wheels sit up so that they are perhaps only ¼" below the top of the board, and that would be nowhere near as hard to lift them.

It may not be much of a problem going past the first wheel because the board is most likely not in contact with the bit, but at the second wheel there would definitely be bit/board contact, so I just wonder what a little bit of a jolt would do? Maybe it's all good and they are very smooth.

I haven't used them but a guy who used to be a member here a few years ago bought some and reckoned they were pretty good. He used his on the table saw for cutting large sheets.

I think the height needs to be adjusted for what you are cutting and the spring must be strong enough to not need much of a height differential.

Yeah, I had a closer look at the enlarged pic and it seems pretty obvious that you set the rough height with the winder at the back and then the spring takes up the slack.

Originally Posted by fletty

The op went ahead today, now home safe ....and typing at 50% with only one finger!
graft taken from underside of forearm half way to elbow.

Back in to hospital today for the unveiling....

20141027_111118.jpg

The doctors ...and I... are very happy with the result! They are very surprised with the rate of healing after only 1 week so I didn't confuse them further with my theory of the the recuperative power of GOOD QUALITY shiraz, applied internally, even though you can SEE the shiraz nourishing the graft. I have full feeling and movement in the undamaged parts of the finger and they believe that the few remaining stitches can be removed next week.

I really have been given a lesson and I certainly will learn from it. I have designed some new router jigs and will make a few changes to my practices...

• no cross grain routing!
• I will now only use pattern bits with bearings on the bottom because
• ....if the router bit rises, the bearing will move on to the workpiece, NOT the cutters on to the pattern, and hence not grab the workpiece nor me

Things I will not change

• I will continue woodworking
• I will use (even) more handtools
• and I will preach the recuperative power of GOOD QUALITY shiraz

Thanks for all of your concern BUT I hope we will all learn from it because I have been VERY LUCKY THIS TIME. My next time, or the first time for others may not be so lucky!

fletty

That is good news and hopefully we all learn something out of your misfortune.

Originally Posted by fletty

..
.
I really have been given a lesson and I certainly will learn from it. I have designed some new router jigs and will make a few changes to my practices...

• no cross grain routing!
• I will now only use pattern bits with bearings on the bottom because
• ....if the router bit rises, the bearing will move on to the workpiece, NOT the cutters on to the pattern, and hence not grab the workpiece nor me

Not considering a guard of some sort?

It is looking good Alan I do have my concerns tho.

Being this finger should do the following

holds nails while you pond them with a hammer
Holds screws while you screw
is used to measure in ways ..such as it could mean 2 1/2 fingers of Scotch not 2......typing will pose problems being it may be a tad longer now..............you'll have to adjust to the new size of it
pushes 8 track cassettes into your cars sound system
dials on your old rotary phone

Going to be difficult trimming just 1/2 a finger nail

Good job Shiraz is in plentiful supply and the country has not banded its use...........yet

Originally Posted by silentC

These have been around for awhile too:

http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-W110.../dp/B0000223VK

You can get them in different configurations and they include one-way action for anti-kickback.

Co-incidentally, I was looking at these online this morning, and have made arrangements to pick up a set at McJings tomorrow.

https://mcjing.com.au/categorybrowse...ategoryid=1505

Alan...

Originally Posted by BobL

Not considering a guard of some sort?

In the OHS hierarchy, guarding should be pretty much the last resort. The jigs I have designed have their own protection that will keep my hands away from the sharp bits but I am mostly now considering more exotic versions of starter pins. IF i'd had a starter pin in play, the cutter couldn't have swung the workpiece so far that it dragged my hands into danger. Another thing I'm looking at is that any hand grips on jigs probably should be like plane totes so that my hands are both higher AND have something physical to stop them from lurching forwards. I still shudder that my left hand was thrown towards an upright cutter which was heading in between my spread index finger and thumb !
If I can't design the danger out, I certainly will use guarding and probably the guarding that I already have but don't use

fletty

Originally Posted by Uncle Al

Co-incidentally, I was looking at these online this morning, and have made arrangements to pick up a set at McJings tomorrow.

https://mcjing.com.au/categorybrowse...ategoryid=1505

Alan...

So far I have mostly rethought my free-hand routing and so Ive concentrated on technique, hand grips, starter pins etc BUT, when I get back to fence routing, I am quite taken with these....

http://www.jessem.com/CLEAR-CUT_STOCK_GUIDES.html

I particularly like the 'one-way' feature and the canted wheels to draw the work into the fence.
If no-one beats me to it I might buy a set and do a product review.

fletty

PS, the video even shows routing end grain.........

I still shudder that my left hand was thrown towards an upright cutter

This is why for many operations it is safer to take the router out of the table and use it in plunge mode. That way your hands can't possibly come into contact with the bit because you are holding the router, not the work piece. I realise it's not always practical, and the table is very convenient for some operations. I use a router table myself. But if you are machining an edge on something that can be clamped to a bench, it is by far the safest way to do it.

They've done a nice job on the graft Fletty. You should have asked them to install a couple of screw driver bits and a chisel attachment while they were there. Oh well. Next time.
Those clear cut stock guides do look good. I've got a couple of these http://www.jessem.com/PARALIGN_FEATHER_BOARDS.html and I find them to be excellent. Highly recommended.