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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    275

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    Thanks @derekcohen thats very helpful. A friend of mine has access to a metal work shop (and the required skills needed) to make me a router plate so that will be a massive help.

    @aldav & @tccp123, that's my plan, use a bunch of scrap i have lying around (hopefully the only cost to me will be the router). I also like the cheap lift solution thanks Tccp.

    Question about the routers, what size should i be looking at (and should i base it on HP or KW?) its all rather confusing. Gumtree has a couple of Makita's but i don't know if they're big enough as the sellers don't tend to add a lot of detail in their ads...
    ​Coming Up With Complex Solutions to Non-Existent Problems Since 1985

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    3,039

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    You should be looking at at least 2hp (1500w - 750w to the hp) and with 1/2" collet capacity. In the Makita's a 3612 is 1850w and plenty powerful enough. The 3600BR is 1500w and also a good choice. If you come across any of the variable speed models, 3612C or RP2301FC, at a reasonable price they're the bees knees for tables.

    tccp123 should get a commission from all the sellers of those scissor lifts. Once he posted that Youtube video the sales of them skyrocketed.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    684

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    A common issue we face in Australia is a lack of Fixed based routers where the router body is removable from the fixed base. There are several router lifts available in Australia from several companies that are built for these style routers. Only one of which (that I know of) actually supplies a spindle to suit and that is GregMach. It isn't cheap though when you add up the router plate/router lift plus the spindle plus a switch etc. Same thing if you use a CNC spindle they are generally 3 phase for the 2-3hp motors.

    I opted for the TRA-001 which is a plunge router with the ability to be micro adjusted with a crank handle from above the router table top (very important for me) and Incra make a 10mm thick router plate to suit this exact router. On the plus side you also get a plunge router for general use if you don't already have one. I have attached a quick image of the router fence I made from Aluminium extrusion and plywood that fits over my table saw fence as an extension in my table saw. The photos don't show the router installed but the two aluminium fences are adjustable inwards and outwards plus I like the ability to be able to fit a large array of accessories to the T slots in it.
    20171117_161048.jpg20171117_160717.jpg

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

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    In fact there are plenty of CNC spindles available on Ebay which if water cooled are way better than a router motor because they are a lot more quite when running. The router table thinking just has to change a bit and look at them instead of router motors. They can be side mounted so the top does not have to be stupidly thick as well.
    CHRIS

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Eatons Hill Queensland
    Posts
    445

    Default

    Hi Dibbers, just read your thread and thought that I would add my 2c's worth. I have just done a few small modifications to my DYI router table to improve its performance. It is of reasonably cheap construction using non structural pine, MDF and 3mm aluminium for the router support. Two routers are installed for use with a Giftkins dovetail jig. A triton 1400W router is the main with a n old GMC trim router as back up. Mounted on the 3mm aluminium they can be easily lifted out for adjustment if you don't have a "lifter" the Triton works beautifully from below or with the wind up accessory. I hope that the attached photos are of assistance.

    P1050336.jpgP1050337.jpgP1050339.jpgP1050342.jpg.P1050338.jpg P1050340.jpgP1050341.jpg

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