Thread: Questions Re: DIY Router Tables

Hi,

Most DIY router table use a 30mm+ thick laminated MDF or chipboard top to provide enough support for a heavy router without sagging (over time). But a 30mm+ thick base will reduce the plunge depth of the router i.e. height above the table of most bits will not be viable. Therefore an aluminium or phenolic plate of 9mm thickness will provide enough support as the area of the plate is much smaller than the entire router table top. This provide an extra 20 mm or so of bit height.

Even with a 9mm plate and a standard plunge router you will have issues with shorter bits not protruding enough. Then you will need a collet extension, but these are not without issues of runout that will result in vibration (and danger) with larger diameter bits.

You should be able to remove the plunge springs from most routers. On the Triton routers it is very easy to do. The Triton routers also have a unique feature where the collet will extend past the base to allow above table bit changes. The shaft auto locks when this is done to allow a single spanner bit change.

A Trim router may not have enough power for cutting large dados and rabbets


Trevor

Originally Posted by tgbrooks

Hi,

You should be able to remove the plunge springs from most routers. On the Triton routers it is very easy to do. The Triton routers also have a unique feature where the collet will extend past the base to allow above table bit changes. The shaft auto locks when this is done to allow a single spanner bit change.

A Trim router may not have enough power for cutting large dados and rabbets


Trevor

Thanks for clarifying RE the

Regarding the router itself, is there an alternative to a plunge router for a router table? Or is it a given (or better on the wallet) that you'd need to remove springs in a plunge router?

A plunge router is the easiest to adjust the height on in a table. There are a few options to do this in the links below.
https://www.timbecon.com.au/routing/...mounting-plate which is the expensive way but very accurate. There are a few different brands to choose from.
https://www.timbecon.com.au/routing/...ght-winder-kit this is a bit cheaper version
https://www.carbatec.com.au/power-to...-and-2-collets this I believe is the best option as it is quick to move a long way and also accurate. Removing the plunge springs when in a table is the way to go. The Triton is well designed to use in a table with a number of features assist its use in this situation.

If you already have a plunge router, you could modify it the way I did to make micro adjustments from underneath.
I fitted a piece of allthread into where the shaft went, welded 2 nuts to a piece of tube, 1 nut to suit the allthread, the other to suit the star knob handle.
The end of the tube had to be tapered down to clear the chamfer of the body. To stop the tube vibrating loose, I used a tool clip to give it enough tension so that it didn't vibrate loose and down, even with the locking lever locked on.
DSCF0440.jpg

Hope this helps.
Kryn

You basically have three options:

Using a router lift you can use pretty much any type of router because it stays in one height position; only moving when you need to change bits.
Using a router plate; available in phenolic resin or ally. Really only work well though with a plunge router.
Use a small sheet of 1/4" ply and a Black and Decker Workmate or similar. No, really. Take your router (any type) and remove the baseplate. Use that as a template to copy the screw holes on the ply. Screw router to ply; flip upside down and drop into jaws of Workmate so that the ply is laying on the flat upper surface of the jaws and the router base can be clamped between them (will need to remove a small section of jaws if router base diameter is greater than the max jaw opening size). A battern can be clamped to the ply and used as a fence.

The third option is very crude and extremely effective. A DeWalt 625EK mounted this way was my first router "table" whist deployed at sea in the Persian Gulf.

The second option is the most popular and very easy to get wrong. Plastic plates will flex with a heavy router and all of them need care when initially mounting them in a table top. When I was contemplating building a new table I looked very, very hard at Kreg products and determined they would be the best for my needs.

Option 1; well you just need money for a new system or luck finding a 2nd hand one (gloat!).

Have a look at the Stumpy Nubbs DIY videos on U-tube; he has one for a table, one for an Incra-inspired fence and a third for a homemade router lift. I bought the plans for the table and fence as I now have a Jessem router lift (still gloating!!!) and hope to actually build my table soon...

Oh, and the best router to use under a table without a shadow of a doubt is the big Triton; no matter what table system you use. Above the table bit changes, excellent under table dust extraction capability, easy adjustment above or below the table and enough power to drive any 1/2" shanked bits made. As a package, nothing else comes close and you have to compromise on at least one feature. I've had mine nearly 15 years now; should it ever break it will be replaced with another.

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

You basically have three options:

Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.

I heard the Triton routers are best, but it would probably be too much strain on the budget to purchase one (even 2nd hand even though i haven't come across any at this stage).

I was contemplating buying an older Makita or an Older Ryobi Plunge (the blue ones) router of gumtree and building a temp table for it. I don't know how much i'll be using it at this stage so don't want to shell out big bucks just yet. I have some scrap I can build a table from, and a mate might be able to knock me up a router plate if i ask him nicely and buy him a couple of beers... if not i'll just make it using ply and deal with the limitations in the short term... outlay would only be about $100 for the router and virtually $0 for the table... If i get a bit of use out of it i'll look to upgrade the router and build/purchase a more permanent table for it...

Use a CNC spindle and side mount it by making your own lift, it will save you a lot of money and result in a more versatile table. Do some searches through this sub forum as it was discussed a few times and photos of at least one version were put up as well as links by myself of a similar commercial version.

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

Use a CNC spindle and side mount it by making your own lift, it will save you a lot of money and result in a more versatile table. Do some searches through this sub forum as it was discussed a few times and photos of at least one version were put up as well as links by myself of a similar commercial version.

I'll have a look, cheers

Originally Posted by Dibbers

Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.

I heard the Triton routers are best, but it would probably be too much strain on the budget to purchase one (even 2nd hand even though i haven't come across any at this stage).

I was contemplating buying an older Makita or an Older Ryobi Plunge (the blue ones) router of gumtree and building a temp table for it. I don't know how much i'll be using it at this stage so don't want to shell out big bucks just yet. I have some scrap I can build a table from, and a mate might be able to knock me up a router plate if i ask him nicely and buy him a couple of beers... if not i'll just make it using ply and deal with the limitations in the short term... outlay would only be about $100 for the router and virtually $0 for the table... If i get a bit of use out of it i'll look to upgrade the router and build/purchase a more permanent table for it...

This may give you a few ideas, especially on dust extraction, a different way of mounting the router and a really simple lift. Router table build

The Router cabinet was made with a view to converting over to a CNC motor with VFD and adding a simple motor lift, that's if I decide to convert to a CNC motor as this current setup is working so well that it may be a while, likely when the small Triton router dies.

I rounded a bunch of 250mm timber platters the other day and as usual, not one speck of dust was left on the router table, nothing in the cabinet and no measurable invisibles above table using a particle counter. In other words, absolutely no clean up after an hours work. If you aren't familiar with standard router mounting, insert plates, clearance rings, fence extraction and how traditional dust collection is seriously compromised by these evolved standard configurations, then the reasons for the redesign might be a little hard to follow. For me it was all about safety and as near as 100% fine dust removal (especially above table) as possible.

Originally Posted by MandJ

This may give you a few ideas....

Mate, that is one serious (and seriously impressive!) router table you've got there!

I'm still looking at DC solutions for my shed, its a small shed (single car garage) and I'm in a townhouse so external is a no go... I'm not really great with motors, electrics and sheet metal so I might have to get a mate to help me modify a 2hp for the 6" ducting and moving the motor...

As far as a router table build, its on the list of things to build (right after a laundry cabinet and a DC purchase, enclosure & ducting). I doubt mine will be anywhere near as complex or well thought out and built as yours, but it does provide food for thought so thank you.

Seriously, you could probably charge an arm and a leg for the plans to build one of those!

Thanks, the important things in the build are not the electronics, you don't really need most of that. The thing to look at is the way the extraction works on the fence / table and the way the router is remounted to a thick aluminium plate, I cut that plate out with a few basic tools, the plate is the secrete to getting air flow around and below the bit, the way that works in unison with the fence and table inserts to extract dust is seriously impressive - I've tested this with a 2hp DC with 6" ducting and it worked 100% with dust extraction with this design.

Cheers.

Originally Posted by Dibbers

Hi Folks,

So i've been googling, but I'm struggling to find what i'm after so thought i'd ask the educated folk here instead... I'm thinking of building a router table (not right now, but hopefully sooner rather than later) and I'm trying to get an understanding of some basics before i start putting pen to paper and designing the thing.

Now I'm new to routing, but i want to be able to cat Dado's, Rabbets etc and i'll need to acquire a router for this purpose as my planned TS can't accommodate a dado set...

So I have a couple of questions;

1. Based on my understanding, Plunge Routers are problematic to use in a router table because the springs make it hard to adjust the height, is that correct? Does that mean i should go for a Trim Router? Or is there another category entirely that i'm missing here?

2. Now to the router table, I want to build my own because its fun to build things and usually cheaper... Now a lot of the DIY router tables i've seen have router plates installed, but i can't seem to find the reasoning behind it... is it to make height adjustment easier? To accommodate for different sized router bits? A combination of both?
I was thinking for my first attempt, i'd go without the plate and just use smaller bits and repeated passes for thicker Dados as required... If i get enough use out of the table i'd look to "upgrade" the table to include a router plate or simply make an interchangable table top with a wider hole for larger bits...

Thanks in advance for your help.
Dibs

Hi Dibs

I recently built another router table. I do not use one much, so was unwilling to spend much money on it. Still, I want a good table, and instead spend some time building a decent fence, and recognising that the plate for the router needed to be stiff.

For the plate, the minimum one can get away with is the aluminium plate sold by Timbercon. This was $95.

The top was made of two 3/4" layers of melamine coated chipboard, totalling 1-1/2".

I attached this to my table saw outfeed, but you could build a box.

The fence is a section of 3" x 1-1/2" aluminium box (lying in the corner) with hardwood faces (scrap). The dust extraction is handled by a vacuum cleaner via a shop made port. You can buy something similar.









I have since replaced the router in the picture, a 1/2" fixed based 2 hp GMC with variable speed and soft start, with an old Elu 177e (I have a few Elus), and a Router Raizer, which is a cheap ($100) way of making above-table blade changes. (incidentally, the GMC is available for sale - $40 - but pick up only. Perfect condition).



All can be done cheaply is you wish.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Any of the big Makita's work well in a table. As far as I'm aware you can't remove the springs, I've never found it a problem. My router table is made from junk; steel framed computer table reinforced with a few welded on additions; 8mm aluminium plate from the scrap merchant cut on the table saw; piece of offcut laminated kitchen bench top; total cost was about $40. I did add an Incra fence system to it though and that did cost a bit.

woodPixel has recently upgraded his table from a Triton to a new motor and lift system that he seems overjoyed with, cost a few $$$ though. I'm sure there is some info posted on it in the forum. If you start out cheap and simple to get a feel for what you need the only real cost is your time, so if you're not drowning in dollars I reckon you're on the right track.

I like the magnets to hold the allen key Derek, pesky little blighters to keep track of aren't they.

+1 for Makita, and yes the springs can be removed.

If the budget’s tight look at this for a cheap router lift solution:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2hemWPzLiFY