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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Central Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    55

    Question Rail & Stile bits - 1/4" router

    I purchased a rail & stile set from Carbatec at the woodworking show. Problem is I only have a 1/4" router but I was told this wouldn't be a problem.

    After much waiting and a trip to Melbourne I have got the 1/4" shafts and now they don't look as if they will fit. Apart from appearing too short, the bottom part of the router bit appears to be part of the shaft i.e. it doesn't come off.

    My questions are - has anyone else had experience with changing the shafts in the CMT rail & stile bits ??? and what opinions do you have with running these size bits in a 1/4" router.

    Thanks in advance.

    Ash

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5,773

    Post

    Spinning a large bit like that seems to be a big ask for a 1/4 inch machine to me.

    If you are wanting to run any sort of serious profile you will be running it in a router table I trust

    If you plan to do any sort of heavy work like that I would strongly sugest that a 1/2 inch machine is the go.

    As for the problems with the bits you have I can't comment.

    Cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Central Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    55

    Post

    Thanks Soundman

    I tend to agree. I thought this might be the reason they don't offer these bits in 1/4" shaft.

    I guess I'll have to start dropping hints for a Triton router for Christmas.

    Regards

    Ash

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Location
    Western Australia
    Age
    77
    Posts
    3,679

    Post

    Hi Ashley,the thought of using profile bits with a 1/4 " shaft is OK providing you are aware of you limitations.

    1.The shaft of a smaller diameter is liable to flex due to the stress's placed upon it moreso if applying that bit to hardwoods.

    2.In saying that if good practices are applied and only very light successive passe's thru the bit then you should achieve your objective.

    3.The bits you have chosen come with a reasonable reputation, CMT are well recognised in the field of Router bit technology and are well regarded in holding an edge well even with our hardwoods we have here.

    4.If you're using softwood like pine then the stress will be minimal provided you are mindful of the amount of BITE you apply to the bit.

    5.Preferably and with a speed reduction mechanism in place and with a table mounted router you really should'nt get into trouble when dealing with profile cutters but with hand held routers a couple of factors come into play namely that the timber is well held and the guidance for the router preferably with the guide they supply firmly in place.Freehand routing with a profile bit is like trying to win Lotto unless you are chasing an existing profile with a bearing guided bit.

    Just a bit more than my 2c worth
    Have fun.
    Cheers

    ------------------
    Johnno
    Johnno

    Everyone has a photographic memory, some just don't have film.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5,773

    Post

    Two routers are always better than one the triton seems to be a reasonable but check out the old favorites like th hitachi TR12, similar makita bosch ect.

    You may have to drop smaller hints to get there.
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

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