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11th April 2003, 11:26 AM #1Member
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Rail & Stile bits - how to use them properly
Hi to all
Finally got my Triton router and CMT Rail & Stile set.
Can anyone offer tips & hints on getting a good result without me having to find the pitfalls/problems myself along the way.
Any links that may be useful would also be appreciated.
Thanks
Ash
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11th April 2003 11:26 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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11th April 2003, 01:01 PM #2
Get the CMT Bits catalogue from Carbatec as it has a good description of how to use the Rail & Stile bits.
Wayne
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11th April 2003, 01:33 PM #3
Ashley,like Wayne said check the catalogue for hints on your particular router bits and how to use them.
Read anything whether router books or catalogues that will guide you.
Think of using feather boards/hold-downs and push sticks to retain the integrity of your hands...safety first!
Mostly trial and error on flat square waste timber or preferably off-cuts of the timber you're using.
MUST be square and FLAT ....do some test cuts on the scrap timber and measure your height of your cutters relavent to the table when you arrive at a perfect fit of the joint.
Allow for expansion of timber and it's movement moreover if the environment for the finished product is in an area where the humidity may fluctuate.It's a good practice to allow for timber movement in any furniture construction.
Check for the recommended speed of your router allow to come up to appropriate operating speed for the function you intend for it,with the movement of your timber thru the cutters...try to prevent heat being generated and move your timber thru at a steady pace.
CheersJohnno
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11th April 2003, 03:12 PM #4Member
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- Sep 2002
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Thanks guys
Thanks for the prompt replies.
I was hoping to be able to get something off the net today so I can get into it at the weekend. I would rather not have to wait until next week to start making doors etc.
I might have old catalogue at home perhaps
Thanks again
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11th April 2003, 04:14 PM #5
This has some basic info on the setup.
Sommerfield CMT
I haven't used this set but as with other similar joint bits you should setup using scrap bits of exactly the same thickness material as you will be using.
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12th April 2003, 03:51 AM #6Senior Member
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12th April 2003, 09:23 AM #7
Ashley,
I just remembered a web site that has PDF instructions for nearly all router bits inc. Rail/Stile. Go to http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../instruct.html
Very good stuff.Wayne
______________________________________________
"I'd be delighted to offer any advice I have on understanding women.
When I have some, I'll let you know."
Picard
* New Website - Updates Coming Soon *
http://wayneswoodwork.davyfamily.com/
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13th April 2003, 04:42 PM #8Member
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- Sep 2002
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- Central Victoria, Australia
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Thanks everyone
Wayne - that website is a beauty. Not only satisfied my needs for rail/stile bits but for some others I have that have gievn me a bit of trouble.
If there was such a thing as "link of the month" you would get my vote for this one.
Thanks a lot
Ash
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13th April 2003, 10:28 PM #9
No worries Ash. That site helped me ages ago when I was working out how to use the reverse glue joint bits. Glad it helped.
P.S. Thanks for the vote Do I get a prize or somethingWayne
______________________________________________
"I'd be delighted to offer any advice I have on understanding women.
When I have some, I'll let you know."
Picard
* New Website - Updates Coming Soon *
http://wayneswoodwork.davyfamily.com/
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14th April 2003, 11:06 PM #10In pursuit of excellence
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I've got couple of tips to offer :
- Try to use a hold-down so you don't get any height variation in your cut along it's length. If you can't organise a hold-down, be very conscious of keeping the workpiece flat on your router table.
- When doing a cut on end grain (as in the ends of your rails where they butt into the stiles), use a sacrificial backing plate to prevent tearout where the bit exits the material. Ideally the backing plate should be machined using the profile that matches the long grain cut, i.e a complementary profile that slips against or into the piece being cut, so there's perfect support for the profile where the bit exits it.
Hope this helps a bit (pun intended)
Cheers,
Justin.