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31st August 2017, 06:33 PM #1Novice
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- sydney
- Posts
- 10
Cannot rout in a straight line - what am i doing wrong ?
Hello Guy's & Girls
Long time reader, 1st time poster - having issues routing straight !
Using Triton Router + Table (2000 Series)
Trying to rout a rebate in the edge of the lid panel - using Gifkins Slot Cutter Bit
Trouble is from 1 end of the panel to the other there is 0.5mm difference in position of the rebate - end up with a step
I wasn't too worried but then I did the chamfer on the top of the lid panel and there was the 0.5 difference again !!
Sort of "stands out like the proverbial" !!
I have spent the last 3 days trying to change the squareness of the router to the table and tilting the table without much success - I must be missing something elementary !! But what is it ?
thanks Allan.
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31st August 2017, 06:59 PM #2
Have you checked that the bit is tight in the collet. If it isn't , the bit can raise & fall
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31st August 2017, 08:35 PM #3
Inconsistant process can produce that sort of result. Are you machining off the flattest surface?
There ain't no devil, it's just god when he's drunk!!
Tom Waits
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31st August 2017, 09:11 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Nov 2012
- Location
- Brisbane
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- 1,809
Welcome to the forums,
There are a number of things to check. As skot says, the fixing of the bit is one, though if not tight, my experience is they can come out (dangerously). Another is whether the router is firmly fixed in the table. Does the fence move around? Is it all square?
I am not very experienced with the Triton table, but the few times I tried a mates old one the top flexed and moved a bit - led to lack of accuracy. That was the reason I didn't buy one. I built my own table with a thick 40 or 50 mm top of marine ply laminated and a big solid fence - it works much better than the old Triton table set-up. I use a Triton router in it though.
Is the router new or old? If old there could be some run-out in the bearing contributing to the problem.
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31st August 2017, 09:40 PM #5
No experience with the Triton tables either, but a few people here and on routerforums (US) have had similar issues and a solution for a lot of them has been to set the bit height by whatever means suits and then to lock the height with the plunge lock. Provided that the lock is working properly, it should avoid the height changing due to vibration etc during the cut.
I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.
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31st August 2017, 10:25 PM #6
Hi,
Are you sure your material is not slightly twisted?
RegardsHugh
Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.
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31st August 2017, 10:39 PM #7SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Dec 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 79
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- 601
I had the same issues with my Triton,the table flexed and i never got a consistent result even using all the hold downs ,my table was one of the very first models
Sorry to give you that news,I bought a cast iron table one from Carbatec,(it wasn't that expensive)have not looked back I can now get repeatable cuts
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31st August 2017, 11:28 PM #8Novice
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- sydney
- Posts
- 10
thanks guys - will double check the tightness of the bit ( been in & out about 200 times ! )
but i'm afraid nrb may be correct - pressed steel vs cast iron
Fathers Day this weekend - I may be too late !!
thanks for the replies
Allan
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1st September 2017, 12:26 PM #9SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Sep 2013
- Location
- Jarrahdale WA
- Posts
- 370
I dumped my Triton including the router table for the exact reasons here... have to say as a beginner it was a great place to start, but then as your skills build, the shorcomings become apparent..A huge improvement could be made cheaply by sourcing some 40mm "laminex" covered board, even as an offcut from a benchtop builder, and mounting the router to the bottom of that...solid and flat; the top two things you need...
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