Thread: first router

Originally Posted by jordancoe

... should i get a 1/4 or a 1/2 ill mainly use it for general stuff routing table tops and putting decorative profiles on things. i only can aford about $150 on this and was looking at a toolex tr1500e model any thoughts on that model

A router with a ½" collet can take both ½" and ¼" bits (with a reducing sleeve), so is more flexible. 1500 watts is at the low end for a ½" router, but if you're mainly going to be rounding-over, profiling, etc., it should be OK. I'm not clear what you mean by "routing table tops" but, if it involves any large cutters, then you might struggle using it hand-held. A table will add to the flexibility and - in many cases - the safety.

I know that you have a budget, but the quality of the router directly affects the experience, safety and accuracy that you can expect from it. A decent router is a very versatile tool and one that you will probably use a great deal, once you get used to it. I'd wait and save up more, then look at some better-known brands, such as Bosch, DeWalt, Makita and Triton.

Ray.

Go to cashies and try and pick up a second hand Hitachi TR12. Bullet proof and the ideal first router.

What Ray and Lignum said
Even wait a while and save up a bit, to get the best quality that you can.

I agree with all that's said above about buying quality if possible.
If you're on a budget then another option is to read up and take a close look before deciding, some cheap routers will give you reasonable results while others are just fit for doorstops.
My first buy was a 1200 watt GMC re-badge, I was lucky and it was well built, minimal play in the bearings and columns and with a one piece collet. My next buy was a 1500 watt GMC re-badged at the local DIY shed, however by that time I'd bought a book, think it was called Success with Routing, and I knew enough then to look it over. The play in the columns was horrendous, varying my grip on the handles I could see the cutter tip moving from side to side, took it straight back for a refund.

ok wat about the maktec mt360 does anybody no any thing about this machine and price

Originally Posted by jordancoe

ok wat about the maktec mt360 does anybody no any thing about this machine and price

http://www.makita.com.au/maktec/Prod...?ParentId=2112

Go for a 1/2" and like the others have said quality although the more dollars does not neccesarily mean quality (like any thing).

I brought my first power tool in 1971 which was a Makita Router 1/2", all metal body, with the saw handle type grip with trigger in the handle on one side and knob on the other. (I find this setup far easier and more comfortable to use particularly in one handed operations than the current two knob versions.) At one stage in its life is was used near enough every day for a year. The trigger had to be replaced once. The brushes have never been replaced. It is still going strong today.

Currently I have 5 routers consisting of three 1/2" models and two 1/4" trimmers.

ok at the moment its between the maktec mt360 and the archer aw127r . these are supposedly in the middle range of of the router range for price quality ( wat i was told) and they are at the top end of my price range and are both 1/2 " . wat do u guys think

Originally Posted by jordancoe

wat do u guys think

It almost doesn't matter what we think - the ideal way is to get your hands on both machines and see:

• which one feels better,
• which one has the controls laid out how you prefer,
• which has the better plunge depth,
• how guide bushes fit and whether they're easy to get,
• if the on/off really is a switch or has to be held on to all the time (will need to be overcome for table use),
• whether the ¼" reducing sleeve is supplied and of good quality (or whether a separate collet - or collets - is/are supplied instead),
• which one has the cable coming out of it in a better position, so that it doesn't snag or be likely to get in the way,
• how the dust extraction (if any) works and which is preferable,
• how the plunge depth gauge works and which is better and suitable for repeat working, what additional parts are included, such as a fence (and is it micro-adjustable), trammel (for circle cutting) and spare motor brushes.

Aside from that, if you're in a rush, toss a coin.

Ray.

Theirs a TR12 in perfect nic at the Parkdale Cashies for $125 at the moment. i know the majority here cant get their or to the equivalent second hand shop, but try your local cashies or secondhand shop for a TR12.

For the dollars you will get one hell of a great router. Forget the GMC and other crap. its all rubbish.


PS... Dont get the Archer. Worlds worst router. Its Crap.

Just one point to note with top quality routers bought second hand that the others haven't mentioned yet.

It's rare to get the accessories with a second hand router. Original manufacturer template adapters for some brands of routers can be surprisingly expensive and not all adapters are available from 3rd party manufacturers. Do some research and factor this into the amount you will spend. Likewise, fences for handheld routers are useful accessories at times and are expensive to buy separately. Although you can make your own fences, you might wish you had all of the original parts to play with. Buying new gives you the accessories and saves running around.

This said, any quality second hand router will cause less grief over time than a cheapy bought new and the results will be better. Wrecking a piece you have spent hours on because of a dodgy tool is a good way to learn to buy good tools.

Originally Posted by Lignum

PS... Dont get the Archer. Worlds worst router. Its Crap.

Disagree, the big archer is a great router, by no means the greatest, but its works far better than GMC.

Hello,

Makitas are pretty good. Not that overpriced, and their construction is simple and solid. They use good bearings (important). Router frame usually supports quite well perpendicular plunging movement against the surface (important, too) and are built robustly enough to perform so time after time. They have good motors with good guiding electronics, too.

************

But no matter which brand and model you buy, you will buy quite a lot of router bits , too (that is, if you want to keep things nice and easy for you). They do the cutting work. The lifespan of some average router bit is not that long, and after sharpening some you'll find out it's PITA and you'll rather pick up a new one. Especially for the decorative mouldings and dovetailing.

Depends on the wood how much there will be consumption in the end (amount of silicates in wood, mainly) and if messing around with MDF, there could be even more consumption.

You do not need to be more than a hobbyist (like I am) when pretty soon it becomes evident that the amount of different replacement bits needed will exceed the price of the router.

Kippis,

sumu

I find one of the most anoying features of my routers is the fact that the power cables come out the top of the motor housing, so when you flip it over to examine/measure the depth of a bit, the housing won't sit flat on the bench-top.