Thread: router advice needed

Originally Posted by Razgo

I am cutting some floor out of 15mm marine ply and finding the jig-saw is less than desirable and figured a hand held router would do the job much more accurately and much quicker? I may only do a few small boat floor jobs so wasn't sure to look for the cheapest or get something half decent so it will come in handy for years to come and not let me down.

I was thinking makita? not even sure what size shank and what size router bit i need to cut out 15mm marine ply? i have the old floor which is 13mm and was just going to clamp it over the top of th enew board or simply mark iut and cut. I am not familiar with routers at all. any advice thanks
russ

I would use the jigsaw to cut to within a couple of mm to the finishing line, than clamp a straightedge (straight ply is OK) and run off the excess with a flush-cutting bit with a guide bearing mounted above the cutters. ½" shaft is best, but the cutter could be ½" or ¾" straight cutters with a cutting depth of 5mm more than the combination of the workpiece plus the clamped edge at least (longer is not a problem).

Work with the finishing line to the left of the clamped edge and pull the router towards you. For further beginner info, see this page I wrote a while back - it might help a little. Get the best router you can afford - it will pay you in the end in both reliability and quality in use. HTH

Ray

good advice, thank you

russ

I think my biggest problem is dont seem to be able to cut straight with a jig-saw even with that red eye lazer beam on it. i guess thus the reason to finish of with the router.

However i cant just put the template over the timber and use just the router?

one piece i am doing is 1200 w x 1070 L x 15mm

that blank piece is the same size as the template so i was just going to run the router around that thinking that would do the job nicely?

thanks
russ

those pictures are after the fact, and a bit of a messy cut.

Originally Posted by Razgo

However i cant just put the template over the timber and use just the router?

As Ray wrote, a router with a flush-cutting bit has a freely spinning guide which rides against the template to give you an accurate mirror copy. Use a bit without it and you will be just using a bit which will cut further into your template and the end result will be a dogs breakfast and material wasted.

For hand-held the second router bit would be best. If it were in a router table then depending on your preference the router bit can have the guide top or bottom of the carbide cutter.

806 Super-Duty Flush Trim Bits : CARBA-TEC

811B / 812B Pattern Bits w/ Ball Bearing Guides : CARBA-TEC

But, to add to Waldo's excellent description, you'll need to finish the right-angled internal corners some other way, as I expect you realize?

Ray

yeah i figured i would just file the corners.

After some thought for now i have decided to finish the job by hand with wood file, sand paper, and hand saw.

I am finding the expense and sometimes overkill of electrical equipment just becomes all too daunting for me these days & and added expense.

I know it takes longer by hand and requires more patience but i am finding i seem to get into strife and things go pear shape when i am am around electrical equipment

So for this job i am going to continue by hand, but will consider the router path for my next boat project (14 foot bertram/caribbeann f/g cuddy) where i have to rip the old floor and and replace.

all advice taken on board and greatly appreciated.

thanks
russ

To also add to Waldo's excellent advice, if you don't mind setting up the router twice, you could use a spiral router bit and template guide (using the original floor as the template) to cut the ply almost to shape and then a bearing guided bit to trim flush with the template.