Thread: Router Bits

I don't know much about the router bits but that is a really nice horizontal router table on their web site. Gives me lots of ideas.

Not sure if the bits would be worth it after the exchange rate and you paid freight over here. I firmly believe, especially with router bits, that you get what you pay for!

Originally Posted by Peter Jones

Has anybody bought and used any bits from these people, if so what do you think? Prices look good what is the quality like?

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/

Peter, I've bought quiet a few bits and other things from MICS, just the standard bits (Taiwan) and they seem good to me (although I'm only a newbie to all this). Always got the goods within a couple of weeks of placing order over the net. Cheers - Phil

Thanks Phil,Am looking at getting the 5 piece dovetail set,don't know whether it's worth paying the extra for either the incra or liegh jig sets (with bits I may never use)Peter

Regardless of the brand the golden rule of router bits is " Only buy the bits you need for a job", not "Sets I may use some day". This way you save money and end up with a collection of bits that you actually use.

I’d agree, I hardly use most of the bits in the cheap starter set I bought when I got my first router. I’m slowly building up the bits I want/think I’ll use. The only trouble buying over the net from US is the delay and we all want the goodies NOW.
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My bit (bread) board is slowly filling up.

Originally Posted by greenie512

I’d agree, I hardly use most of the bits in the cheap starter set I bought when I got my first router. I’m slowly building up the bits I want/think I’ll use. The only trouble buying over the net from US is the delay and we all want the goodies NOW.
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My bit (bread) board is slowly filling up.

Try this mob, good quality and prices, top service http://www.apworkshop.com.au

Hey greenie512,I see from your pics you were using a locked mitre bit. Have you tried it on jarrah?. I did on some endgrain and got a bit of a shock ... doing well nice and easy then huge tear out at the end ,,no matter how slow feeding in the piece or the bit speed. any suggestions.?? I know the old saying about buying only what you need and the best quality you can afford, but I don't have a huge amount of experince with routing and think that to buy a couple of cheap sets and experimenting is a good way of finding out ways of using various bits at a reasonable price, Later will come the quality bits..Peter

When doing endgrain with a router, travel backwards (clockwise around the perimeter) , usually prevents tearout.

Originally Posted by Peter Jones

doing well nice and easy then huge tear out at the end ,,no matter how slow feeding in the piece or the bit speed. any suggestions.??

have a piece of scap pine pressed up against the back end of your jarrah where you are getting the tear-out and feed it through as well.

Thanks guys ,,will try both fixesPeter

Originally Posted by Peter Jones

Hey greenie512,I see from your pics you were using a locked mitre bit. Have you tried it on jarrah?. I did on some endgrain and got a bit of a shock ... doing well nice and easy then huge tear out at the end ,,no matter how slow feeding in the piece or the bit speed. any suggestions.?? I know the old saying about buying only what you need and the best quality you can afford, but I don't have a huge amount of experince with routing and think that to buy a couple of cheap sets and experimenting is a good way of finding out ways of using various bits at a reasonable price, Later will come the quality bits..Peter

Peter, agree with other posts. I’m a bit like you and I’m in the experimental stage at the moment.
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Main thought was to use locked mitre joints on the smaller speaker cabinet I might make. Most of my router work at the moment is simply trimming up edges. Although did do the rebates on the workbench doors which was a breeze. and just setting up a template to do some trenching see .. http://www.greenie512.net/greenie512...t_project.html


Cheers - Phil