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Thread: What new Router would you buy?
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17th November 2018, 06:15 PM #31
Hi,
Just some information for anyone else looking in this forum for info on what router to NOT buy. I have a Bosch GOF 1300 mounted in a table - it's great. I have an old 1/4" Makita - it's great. I wanted a relatively cheap plunge router and fell for the Ryobi 1600W - I couldn't get a bit in the 1/4" collet so I pulled it right out so I could get the bit in. I nipped it up and then thought I would look at the 1/2" collet. I still haven't started the router, just checking it first. Well, after much cursing I finally got the bit and 1/4" collet out (I don't remember a soft hammer being standard for changing router bits). It was jammed fast - no I didn't over-tighten it, just nipped it up. I put the included 1/4" straight bit in the collet and pushed it into the spindle WITHOUT the locking nut. Guess what, it is jammed in there. The whole thing is back in the box, not even powered up, and heading back to Bunnings. The price on the Triton is looking pretty good right now. Cheers. Yes, I can hear the "told you so".
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17th November 2018, 06:48 PM #32
Are you certain that the collets are Imperial and not Metric?
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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17th November 2018, 07:01 PM #33
Im another Dewalt 621 man ...................... Love it! and my Fav Router amongst some great competition [I have 4 they breed like rabbits...........LOL]
Set her up with a round subbase to improve stability and I reckon your hitting Router Nervana PAt Warner used to do some great router reviews BUT sadly I recently learned he had passed...............
Regards LouJust Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time
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17th November 2018, 09:24 PM #34Taking a break
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That's not how you're supposed to do it. The collet goes in the nut FIRST, then you put the bit in the collet, then you tighten it. There is a groove around the top of the collet that engages with the nut and the nut will pull it out of the spindle when you loosen it.
The tapers are designed to lock like that, that's literally how they work.
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18th November 2018, 10:02 AM #35
Hi elanjacobs,
Thanks for the feedback. This is a cheap router. I am suggesting that maybe there is some truth in "you get what you pay for" regarding this router.
I understand what you are saying, but this one has no groove around the top of the collet and the nut doesn't engage with it. It isn't a self-ejecting type of collet. The nut simply pushes the collet into the spindle and locks the bit in. The machining on the taper is quite rough and it binds firmly in the spindle, even with a simple push of the fingers.
My other routers work as you described and pull the collet out once you unscrew past the second tight spot.
Bunnings made the refund.
Cheers
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8th December 2018, 11:48 AM #36
Update for anyone looking for a first router.
I have a Makita fixed-base and it is still great after years of use, but not a plunge.
I have a Bosch GOF 1300 which I had in a table for many years. I have removed it from the table and it still works great and is a plunge.
I replaced the Bosch in the table simply because I was tired of kneeling down to loosen the chuck and change bits. It was great in the table with fantastic dust extraction around the spindle even when mounted in the table.
I bought a Triton to go in the new table I built. The Triton is great so far. I love the "above-table" bit replacement although it does take a few turns of the handle to crank the spindle high enough. I am used to my procedure for the Bosch which was quicker but required me to kneel (I am old enough to appreciate less kneeling).
My suggestions for anyone looking for a first router:
1. Check that the collect is a self-ejecting type (see comments by elanjacobs).
2. Pay the extra for a descent router. What may seem like saving can come back to bite. A router is a precision tool. You may be very disappointed and frustrated if you try making dovetails or other precision joins with a really cheap router.
3. If you are likely to mount it in a table consider the Tritons or similar that allow for above-table bit changing. Your priority on this function may vary.
4. Ask on the forums. There are lots of people with lots of experience.
Cheers and thanks to the others for feedback.
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9th December 2018, 07:42 AM #37Woodworking mechanic
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I have a Triton and don’t have to turn the handle to raise it when changing the bit. I just press the button in the LH handle and it unlocks so I can slide it all the way up, release the button to lock the height, and it’s up high enough to auto lock for bit change
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