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Thread: Router Motor

  1. #31
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    Nice setup!

    The one thing I would reconsider is the need to reach over the machine for the VFD controls from the working position.
    You could detach the front panel off the Huanyang and add a suitable cable and mount the panel somewhere more convenient.
    I also reckon the buttons on the Huanyang (and most VFDs) are too small and when things are going pear shaped the last thing to be doing is feeling for a small button on a VFD.

    I haven't done it to all my machines but on most I have a dedicated remote toggle switch so I can see its physically on/off and a large speed control knob.
    I also usually add a big fat emergency off switch that kills the power to the VFD. This will stop the motor very rapidly - the VFD probably doesn't like this happening too often but if it's an emergency who cares.

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  3. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Nice setup!

    The one thing I would reconsider is the need to reach over the machine for the VFD controls from the working position.
    You could detach the front panel off the Huanyang and add a suitable cable and mount the panel somewhere more convenient.
    I also reckon the buttons on the Huanyang (and most VFDs) are too small and when things are going pear shaped the last thing to be doing is feeling for a small button on a VFD.

    I haven't done it to all my machines but on most I have a dedicated remote toggle switch so I can see its physically on/off and a large speed control knob.
    I also usually add a big fat emergency off switch that kills the power to the VFD. This will stop the motor very rapidly - the VFD probably doesn't like this happening too often but if it's an emergency who cares.
    Yep, I'd thought about extending that ribbon cable to the control panel but I can't really see myself changing the speed that often. I don't use many big bits. I'm planning on a big E stop mushroom on the front to cut power to everything (as well as the run and stop buttons). It makes me nervous changing bits with only a Chinese semiconductor between me and 24000rpm.

    I'm also going to do a bit of research into what I can use as a braking resistor to really slow stuff down on a stop command. It still takes a while to wind down.

    For now I've got to do some routing to make some money to pay for it all!

  4. #33
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    Nice setup. I find the router so much more enjoyable now as it is so quite.

    2 quick notes.
    The inverter allows you to connect external buttons to turn the spindle on and off (not latching so you will need a relay) and a external potentiometers for speed control. Saves extending the ribbon cable. I have my inverter on the back on my table as it would be in the way on the front. I think I have only really needed the speed control once in the last 2 years on my old router so I did not bother with the potentiometers.
    In regards to the braking resistor. Before buying one have a look if the braking mosfets are installed in the vfd. If you open it up and follow the tracks from the connector where the resistor would go and find a heap of missing parts it will not work. I ran into this problem on my cnc router where I wanted the spindle to stop on a emergency condition and cound not workout why it was not working... I have not checked my new vfd.

  5. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by dalejw View Post
    . . . It makes me nervous changing bits with only a Chinese semiconductor between me and 24000rpm.
    It doesn't really matter what the RPMs are, the will still bite hard. I have 8 machines on VFDs and only the two grinders on the one VFD have additional protection but it's not because of this concern.

    If you are worried about the chinese semiconductors you can always add a complete physical motor disconnect between the VFD and the motor.
    To prevent damage to the VFD if the switch is activated while the motor is running use a two stage switch, the first stops the VFD and then the switch carries though to a full motor disconnect.
    I have this on a pair of Grinders running from the one VFD. Works a treat.

    I'm also going to do a bit of research into what I can use as a braking resistor to really slow stuff down on a stop command. It still takes a while to wind down.
    Something like the heater coils from a small electric heater should be OK as a braking resistor.
    The guys on the MW forums have looked into the missing circuitry.
    The newer model Huanyang vector drives look like they have all the circuitry needed to connect up a braking resistor.

  6. #35
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    I wrote to Jessum and asked them to consider modifying the mounting points/holes to additionally support an 80mm body, or alternatively offering a sleeve to mount the body in so the smallest setting can be used (or at least one of them).

    Will advise.

  7. #36
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    Would making a sleeve using 80mm PVC pipe, slit lengthways for fit, gap and grip, perhaps clamped with a screw clamp (or 2) , work?

    The PVC would have a slot allowing the pipe to hold it securely.

    One only needs to add about 5mm, which the PVC comes pretty close to.... Welcome to Iplex Pipelines Australia Pty Limited
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #37
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    What sort of thickness of PVC are you locking at?
    I have turned down 25mm PVC pipe for use as a shim on a highly vibratory chainsaw mill but it only works if there is a reasonable area of contact.
    If there are points or lines of contact it will easily wear through.

    The other possible concern I would have is the PVC acting as a heat insulator.

  9. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    What sort of thickness of PVC are you locking at?
    I have turned down 25mm PVC pipe for use as a shim on a highly vibratory chainsaw mill but it only works if there is a reasonable area of contact.
    If there are points or lines of contact it will easily wear through.

    The other possible concern I would have is the PVC acting as a heat insulator.
    A water cooled motor won't be affected by heat build up.
    CHRIS

  10. #39
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    It wouldn't be my choice. PVC isn't really known for it's structural integrity when it gets warm either. It deforms pretty easily.

    The mounting is a bit of a non issue as far as I'm concerned. It'd be nice to have it all fit out of the box if you can get them to modify the clamps but it's no big deal. The cans on these spindles are 80mm, the small clamp size on the mount is 81.7mm. 0.9mm aluminium is a pretty common size which gives you a shimmed diameter of 81.8mm.

    It should be said that the clamp is really sensitive to misalignment on this lift. Slightly too big or small a clamp diameter makes the thread bind up and it stops being smooth. With it locked down on the spindle with the shims it's as smooth as it is with nothing in it which leads me to think that everything is aligned with this setup.

  11. #40
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    How stupid of me, you are all exactly correct and I should have thought of it since BobL only JUST sent me some of his fantastic BMH's. PVC is a terrible choice!

    If alignment is critical, then drilling extra holes in the mounting blocks is necessary, or a shim made.

    I wrote to Jessum and appealed to their best cause - self interest and further sales!

    It seems to me that buying either an after market part for replacement shims or a spindle sleeve makes a great deal of sense for them! They are missing out on an entire 240volt market!

    The logic of fitting a cnc spindle is so overwhelming it boggles the mind it isn't considered by them already. Imagine how easy this is for them - they already cater for 2298 different permutations of router, but forgot the three basic cnc spindle sizes!

    I discussed this as a different user some years ago, as did all here (Chris and I discussed it in person!).... Making it a reality after so long is very exciting!

    Maybe we can make it a commercial kit

    Edit: Does anyone know the common CNC spindle sizes?

  12. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    Edit: Does anyone know the common CNC spindle sizes?
    The only ones I have seen with a ER20 collet are 80mm and 100mm. other are square but that will make it even harder..

    I wounder if we can find a aluminium pipe with a 80 ID with a OD that we a use. What do you think the minimum order of custom extrusion would cost?

    I too wonder why this is not been done more. It only cost slightly more then a normal router and it is just so much better.

  13. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by markdem View Post
    The only ones I have seen with a ER20 collet are 80mm and 100mm. other are square but that will make it even harder..

    I wounder if we can find a aluminium pipe with a 80 ID with a OD that we a use.

    Capral Al don't make anything in that size.
    The closest are 80 mm OD pipes, one with a 2 mm wall and one with a 3 mm wall, 6.5m length is the minimum buy.
    It's not as expensive as you think - under $100

    What do you think the minimum order of custom extrusion would cost?

    To extrude what? Dies cost thousands to make, and hundreds of metres of extrusion are needed to recover the cost.

  14. #43
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    To extrude what? Dies cost thousands to make, and hundreds of metres of extrusion are needed to recover the cost.
    There goes that idea. I was thinking of extruding the pipe but at that cost it would be cheaper just to buy the ebay mounts and machine them down like it did.
    How would the 80mm OD pipe go if we cut it and opened it up around the spindle? (like woodpixle was saying)?. That would give 82mm OD with the 2mm wall.

  15. #44
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    80mm pipe slit in half and put on the spindle should fly OK. The slight expansion needed would lock the two halves on prior to putting it in the lift.
    CHRIS

  16. #45
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    These are the outside diameters you'd be shooting for with the sleeve. From what I can tell you only get about +/- 0.3mm without the lift binding.

    106.7, 88.9, 81.7, 83 and 92mm

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