Thread: Router surface planer

Nice work - I love seeing stuff made out of recycled stuff.

I made one out of pine, Ally and MDF. Mine bolts onto the sides of my bench so I can use the dog hole in the bench to hold pieces being planed.

Great job Micheal. Looks well made too!!

That would definately be a handy addition to the workshop.

Just out of curiosity, how do you plan on holding the timber firm while you plane the top flat? I was thinking of making something along the lines of what you have done (but not nearly as good!!) and one of the things i had trouble working out was how to hold the slab firm without applying too much pressure.

I didnt want to apply too much clamping pressure to the wood to avoid it springing back when the clamps (or what ever) were released. Thus defeating the purpose of the whole process.

Thanks,

Steven.

Just so I get this right.
It's for planing the surface of say a table so it's flat befor sanding, right?
What type of bit would you use? A frostner bit?

I like your design and it gives me ideas.

Originally Posted by Superbunny

What type of bit would you use? A frostner bit?

I presume you mean forstner? which are for drilling holes.

The bit I use is similar to this.

Originally Posted by BobL

I presume you mean forstner? which are for drilling holes.

The bit I use is similar to this.

Yes your right I did mean a Forstner bit, I was not sure how to spell it as I don't have one. Thanks

Here is a thread that describes a surface cutter that is 50 mm wide.

It depends on what you are doing. Even with the 3HP triton router I would prefer to use a smaller (32 mm) bit on hard grained end grain and take slightly deeper cuts. A 50 mm bit would be fine to do a final finish or non-end grain work.

Hi All,

Well it had its first test run his afternoon. I use the 50mm 6 flute surface planning bit from carbitool. I have several 45mm thick spotted gum slabs about 1m long and 200mm wide. They are rough sawn and need to be cleaned up. The bit easily ripped through it. Although you have to hang on pretty securely. It wants to pull to the right.

First impressions are, the slide needs to be beefed up a bit. There is to much flexion in the aluminium. I am think of replacing it with a full steel slide. Not being able to raise and lower the router cradle is a bit of a pain. I'm working on a new system to counter this and lastly clamping the timber is a bit of a problem. I am using irwin quick grip clamps with the ends reversed that acts as spreaders to hold the timber against one rail.

Once i make these changes it will be a very well use jig in my workshop. No more running to Wood'n'you to get some timber flattened.

Oh, one other thing, its very messy. Will need to figure out how to attach the dusty to it.

Cheers

Michael.

Looks great!

How have you supported the ply so that it won't gradually sink?

Michael,

Looks really professional. Top ideas in that. Consider them 'borrowed'.

Steve

I'm guessing the 6 flute bit you used was this one from Carbitool


Specifically designed for that sort of surface planing operation. I have one, but not the jig to be able to use it (yet!)

Looks the goods Michael.

I built one of these, thread here, the idea I used for holding the workpiece might be of use to you.


Cheers......................Sean

So that's really a thicknesser.

If you mounted that it in a router in a table and indexed your fence a bit width at a time you'd have a planer right ? with typically a 4' width capacity (2X fence offset) and virtually endless length capacity.

Or am I missing something ?

Actually your only a few steps away from a cnc router table

Hi all,

Thanks for all the kind comments. The ply thats under the surfacer is part of a large table and it is well supported so there shoud be no saging.

Technically it is a thicknesser but with one difference. When you put a bowed piece of timber through a thiccknesser it still comes out bowed. With a planner like this it is designed to remove the bow and hopefully you end up with a perfectly flat side. Once you have one flat side you can then put it through a thicknesser or table saw.

I have started on making a new slide and height adjustable cradle. It will be all steel. I'm still thinking of ways to fix the timber to stop it from moving.

Will post some photo's soon.

Cheers

Michael.

Looks like an excellent rig.

Mine is a bit bigger and uses a portable sawmill frame, but exactly the the same idea.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...850#post148850

Even if the finish isn't perfect, at least you know it's flat, on both sides. Then you can deal to it with the sander/ scraper/ weapon of choice and get the perfect finish. The trick is to get those big boards flat and straight first. And a router on rails is about the best option.

Ian