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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,205

    Default my new router table.

    I recently moved from having a full industrial style joinery setup with a spindle moulder to my now smaller DIY workshop so a router table is needed to be updated.

    after see waldos great, router table it has made me think to upgrade my old set up from a plastic plate in a piece of form ply attached to the wing of my contractor style table saw.

    My current table router is a fixed speed Makita 1812

    Qns.

    1. What is the difference between using say http://www.carbatec.com.au/store/ind..._420_2700_2710 $49.00 router plate and one from PWS.

    2. Would a bottle jack (pump jack) work as a router lift or would it go down over time and be too hard to fine adjust.
    or
    Could an air ram be used as a router lift? (Has any one seen this done before)

    3. What is the idea size of the table top.

    My ideas so far are

    1. Table to be a section of 35mm solid core door, edged in solid timber and painted to a gloss finish.

    2. base to be simply box style construction, limited requirement for storage as all router bits would be stored in tool room adjacent to workshop area, only need to store feather boards and the like.

    3. "t" track to be capal section.

    4. Fence to be constructed in same manor to Waldo, ie 2 piece front fences.

    5. height of table to be same as my contractor table saw, so that my tables can be but back to back and used to feed over for large sections.

    thanks in advance

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
    Age
    80
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    16,560

    Default

    Can't help with the question on the router lift, I have the big Triton router and I don't need one.

    If the Carbatec plate you are referring to (your link only goes to the CT front page) then that is acrylic, which is thermoplastic and will deform over time. In fact every one I looked at was already not flat, and the inserts didn't sit flush with the plate. Spend the extra $50 and buy the PWS phenolic plate, which is a thermosetting compound and doesn't deform with time/heat. Highly recommended.

    As for table size, mine is 1050x850mm, partly because I have an Incra jig, but in my opinion bigger is better.

    My Incra jig has the Wonderfence, a split fence somewhat like Waldo's, it is great to have that facility. Also consider shims for one side of the fence for jointing type operations.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    East Warburton, Vic
    Age
    54
    Posts
    14,138

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Big Shed View Post
    If the Carbatec plate you are referring to (your link only goes to the CT front page)
    BS if you pick a store, then close the page and click on the link again, it will take you to the correct page. Because the cookies on you computer haven't got the store location in it, it will take you straight to the front page
    Cheers

    DJ


    ADMIN

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Longreach
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,108

    Default

    I think your ideas are good, although the bottle jack would be good to raise the machine, I feel that lowering it would be a little tough. The Air ram idea might work if you could slow it down enough, they work very fast. Lowering the pressure probably wouldn't work because of there limited power. They are nothing like an oil ram. I made my router plate out of 4mm steel, no distortion there. It just starts to rust in the wet weather.

    Robert
    Check my facebook:rhbtimber

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,205

    Default

    [quote=Big Shed;651325]

    If the Carbatec plate you are referring to (your link only goes to the CT front page) then that is acrylic, which is thermoplastic and will deform over time. In fact every one I looked at was already not flat, and the inserts didn't sit flush with the plate. Spend the extra $50 and buy the PWS phenolic plate, which is a thermosetting compound and doesn't deform with time/heat. Highly recommended.

    quote]

    here is a pic.

    good point about the plastic, i will have a look tommorrow and see how flat the carba tec cheapy is. it has been in the old table for about 7 months now.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Sydney
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    1,205

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by specialist View Post
    I think your ideas are good, although the bottle jack would be good to raise the machine, I feel that lowering it would be a little tough. The Air ram idea might work if you could slow it down enough, they work very fast. Lowering the pressure probably wouldn't work because of there limited power. They are nothing like an oil ram. I made my router plate out of 4mm steel, no distortion there. It just starts to rust in the wet weather.

    Robert
    i was having a play with the bottle jack before it seems to need a fair amount of force applied for it to lower.

    the bottle jack is a 20t model from super cheap auto which i have had sitting around for a year now waiting for something to use it on.

    the air ram might be more trouble then its worth for my mark ii table.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Cheltenham, Melbourne
    Age
    74
    Posts
    2,224

    Default

    Gaza, have a look ath this thread (to the end).
    Last edited by chrisb691; 27th December 2007 at 09:02 PM. Reason: added to
    Chris
    ========================================

    Life isn't always fair

    ....................but it's better than the alternative.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,205

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by chrisb691 View Post
    Gaza, have a look ath this thread (to the end).
    thanks,

    very smart idea with the pivert,

    here is a photo of the bottle jack i am thinking of using.

    the installation is going to be stright forward just need to fasion a mount to hold the router, the basic idea so far is to remove the handles and secure the router using those existing screw holes.

    If the Carbatec plate you are referring to (your link only goes to the CT front page) then that is acrylic, which is thermoplastic and will deform over time. In fact every one I looked at was already not flat, and the inserts didn't sit flush with the plate. Spend the extra $50 and buy the PWS phenolic plate, which is a thermosetting compound and doesn't deform with time/heat. Highly recommended.
    my existing carba tec plate has about a 5mm twist in it, so Graham will be getting an order off me very shortly fo one of his.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In the shed, Melbourne
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,883

    Default

    G'day Gaza,

    Regarding question 3 and as Big Shed has said and I'll reintarate you can never have too big. This is a question I spent a lot of time researching here http://www.routerforums.com/ .

    I was going to get a custom size made by PWS at 1200mm x 800mm, but their 1100mm x700mm was close enough (and in hindsight any bigger would've made moving around in my shed between machinery very cramped)

    Look forward to following your progress.
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  11. #10
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Kuranda, paradise, North Qld
    Age
    62
    Posts
    5,639

    Default sliding table

    Gaza,
    see here for pics of my sliding table. As per your PM.

    Mick
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Katherine ,Northern Territory
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,977

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gaza View Post
    I recently moved from having a full industrial style joinery setup with a spindle moulder to my now smaller DIY workshop so a router table is needed to be updated.

    after see waldos great, router table it has made me think to upgrade my old set up from a plastic plate in a piece of form ply attached to the wing of my contractor style table saw.

    My current table router is a fixed speed Makita 1812

    Qns.

    1. What is the difference between using say http://www.carbatec.com.au/store/ind..._420_2700_2710 $49.00 router plate and one from PWS.

    2. Would a bottle jack (pump jack) work as a router lift or would it go down over time and be too hard to fine adjust.
    or
    Could an air ram be used as a router lift? (Has any one seen this done before)

    3. What is the idea size of the table top.

    My ideas so far are

    1. Table to be a section of 35mm solid core door, edged in solid timber and painted to a gloss finish.

    2. base to be simply box style construction, limited requirement for storage as all router bits would be stored in tool room adjacent to workshop area, only need to store feather boards and the like.

    3. "t" track to be capal section.

    4. Fence to be constructed in same manor to Waldo, ie 2 piece front fences.

    5. height of table to be same as my contractor table saw, so that my tables can be but back to back and used to feed over for large sections.

    thanks in advance

    Solid core door sounds good for the top .Thats what I'll be using on mine .
    Also It will be hinged so I can lift it up to get at the router .
    Unless I get financial and get a router lift.

    Kev
    "Outside of a dog a book is man's best friend ,inside a dog it's too dark to read"
    Groucho Marx

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