Page 4 of 18 FirstFirst 12345678914 ... LastLast
Results 46 to 60 of 264
  1. #46
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Caboolture QLD AU
    Posts
    781

    Default

    Thanks Lappa for bringing that up. This seems the norm in most builds and I had wondered about that very thing. I am sealing all exposed timber after I sand and neaten up, including the holes for the bits. I'll be keeping an eye on it and may do as you have done and simply insert a Perspex plate. The bottom BIT retaining plate in the draws (covering the bottom of the holes) are just tacked on, the fronts are screwed on, so all are easy to remove and modify. So far in this workshop I've had almost nil rust build up on the cast iron tables or tools over the years, it's almost a fully lined workshop and well vented, perhaps that has helped in this regard.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #47
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Caboolture QLD AU
    Posts
    781

    Default Stainless Wire Rope update

    I tried 1.6mm 7x19 Stainless Wire Rope, it is indeed very flexible and does not stretch, however when going over a roller, and I'm using quite big rollers, it needs quite a bit of weight to pull it taunt, it tries ever so slightly to hold its slight deformity from the 1/4 curve around the rollers - it seemed ok at the start but I can come back an hour later and the reading has changed, either temperature or a very slight straightening of the wire is taking place. This does NOT happen with cord I was using.

    The good news is that it forced me to setup a better method of accurately measuring different size objects between the fence and a dummy bit, also taking out any slight change due to any router possible movement.

    With the "almost non stretch" string back in place, turns out my accuracy is within 0.02mm (0.0008") of the calipers, and is repeatable at that variation. Readings out to 120mm are within 0.03mm (0.001"). So at this stage I'm happy with this for such a basic cobbled together crude setup, no way I'd be getting that accuracy normally, especially as it only takes me a few seconds to set the fence at a desired position with that accuracy. The spec for the 150mm DRO is that it is accurate to within 0.025mm over that length. I used two sets of calipers to check against and that is close enough for me in our home DIY workshop.

  4. #48
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Caboolture QLD AU
    Posts
    781

    Default Update to the fence Digital position readout.

    I'm posting this without pictures because it's getting late and I just test finished a revised setup for the fence DRO. The fence position measurements now agree 100% with the digital callipers for any fence position from the router bit between 0 and 145mm with no loss of precision no matter how many times I move / readjust the fence, so that slight uncertainty with the old system has now been eliminated, and of course it's now so simple

    The string and pulleys system has gone and the DRO slide assembly is attached directly to the fence, I had to move the 150mm Dust collection duct on the shed wall and come in from the side behind the router table and then into the back of the cabinet. Previously I had only thought of moving the cabinet DC connection duct which would have compromised the extraction, don't know why I never thought of doing it the simple way Pictures tomorrow.

  5. #49
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
    Posts
    4,770

    Default

    Although you no longer need it, for future reference, "non-stretch string" can be purchased from Archery stores. Modern bow strings have zero stretch, even under very high pressures and are made of materials that are designed specifically not to stretch and have huge breaking strains.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  6. #50
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Caboolture QLD AU
    Posts
    781

    Default

    This is the temporary test setup: See if it works and uncover any problems with wall clearance usability and mounting / removal.

    The DRO sensor head (square black box in foreground) does not move, although it pivots forward / back around its centre allowing it to follow any slight deviation in the moving slide rule. The slide connects to the fence with a pivot coupling (think a tow bar and trailer pivoting around the same centre as the router bit) allowing one end of the fence to be moved when doing micro adjustments on the fence position. This also means that accuracy does not rely on the fence being straight.



    The final version will have the following done:

    A: The rest of the unused FENCE dust collection box will be removed leaving only the sloping panel which connects the front fence opening to that huge through table extraction opening running from in from of the router bit and back towards the 150mm DC port.

    B: The DRO slide will then be lowered.

    C: DRO slide anchor point behind the fence will be an aluminium plate that also incorporates the DRO readout stand, so one large locking knob will allow the readout and slide pivot connection to the fence to be removed as one.




    The DC ducting used to run straight down the wall behind the DRO head, the same number of bends and pipe was used in shifting the ducting path.

    The RT moves on big locking castors, it automatically unplugs from the main DC line when it's moved forward, it plugs itself back in when moved back. Simply unlock the front wheels, pull the router table forward and wheel it away.

    The router table is back against the 150mm ducting, the width of the 150mm duct allows room for DRO SLIDE to move all the back with the fence as it's moved to the very back of the table.



    Below is a view of the revised 150mm duct path running down the wall to the RT.


  7. #51
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Caboolture QLD AU
    Posts
    781

    Default

    DRO slide position sensor in it's final location. No change in readout as the RT is wheeled around the workshop and no change when the fence lock downs are tightened or loosened - very happy with the final result.






  8. #52
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

    Default

    A question for you, where did you find the yellow hand wheels?
    CHRIS

  9. #53
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Caboolture QLD AU
    Posts
    781

    Default

    Hi Chris, I salvaged that one from a very old GMC table saw.

    Mike.

  10. #54
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MandJ View Post
    Hi Chris, I salvaged that one from a very old GMC table saw.

    Mike.
    Thanks Mike, I will continue to look as that does not sound like a reliable source.
    CHRIS

  11. #55
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Caboolture QLD AU
    Posts
    781

    Default

    Found a 0.09mm deflection in the fence under pressure due to the DE hole in the fence. I had the top of the old through fence collection box braced before doing this latest mod, and as the fence position gauge is so accurate I decided to remove this variation by adding a bigger brace glued along the back of the fence. The result is now 0.01mm change, but only if I really lay into the centre of the fence, as I won't be applying that amount of force in use there will now be zero change.

    That crude little micro adjuster allows me to easily adjust the fence in 0.01mm (0.0004") increments.







    Removal of the fence requires two screws to be loosened slightly, the screws are on the rule retainer bracket that is supplied with the DRO, the DRO display is unplugged and the fence then slides off. There's no fiddling or mucking around, takes an extra 5 seconds for removal or re-installation of the fence.

  12. #56
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    5,124

    Default

    Are you sure that 0.01mm wont bother you?

  13. #57
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Caboolture QLD AU
    Posts
    781

    Default Making a new Fence for the table.

    Reasons:

    A: I wanted a fence that looked simple and uncluttered when needed.

    B: A fence that would allow various sliding jigs to be easily fitted, such as sliding right angle jigs, sliding vertical holding jig etc., these would slip over the fence itself and accurately slide along the fence base.

    C: A simple way to attach various top fence assembly's that would hold a bit guard, feather boards and fence stops, yet allow that to be quickly swapped off for the jigs mentioned above, or any other jig or fence attachment that I may need to build in the future.

    I was initially going to make a basic fence from 100mm square (square) aluminium box section, however that stuff is quite expensive and would likely pose other problems with construction.

    The fence as shown has cost a total of $12.00 so far. I took a straight edge with me and picked two pieces of MDF with virtually no surface deviations. Took time to get it as close to 100% square as I could measure and the front and back surfaces exactly parallel and true, hence the generous bracing along the length of the fence with everything glued. I decided against any screws as I found I had better control over the exactness of the surface and fence.

    I haven't decided exactly what surface finish I'll use, but before I glue the top on I have to sand and tidy up the fence, then seal all interior surfaces.

    Below: Looks like standard square fence. The fence zero clearance inserts are simple to make and swap out and fit in the fence dust extraction opening. The intake area above the insert is used to grab any rising dust. These inserts mean that I don't need those big sliding zero clearance fence boards.


    Zero insert fitted and removed.Through table fence dust extraction is used to make all dust extraction air flow in the same direction.




    Lots of bracing.


    The rod sticking out the back of the fence is the fence digital position slide sensor.


    Fence top with plenty of Tee Nuts for various fence extensions.



    As the top will be glued on, the tee nuts that are sealed inside the fence are secured from ever coming loose.


    Below: Fence Dust extraction is through the table and a sloping intake backing smooths the intake angle through the table. The sloping timber plate is removable from the front, so even though the top will be glued on, this chamber will be fully accessible. The black fitting is the pivoting Digital slide attachment, two screws are loosened and the slide simply disconnects from the fence. Two holes in the top will allow screw driver access to these screws.


    The Fence DRO sensor.

  14. #58
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

    Default

    Another great lesson in how to think outside the box so to speak, I will be interested in what jigs you make for it. How is the zero insert held in?
    CHRIS

  15. #59
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Caboolture QLD AU
    Posts
    781

    Default

    Thanks Chris, my initial idea with the fence insert plate was to have a long spring clip down each side behind the insert (there is a ton of room to glue two strips of timber there to attach the clips), the intention was to have the insert clip over the two side locating strips, however, the force of intake air is so great that it simply doesn't move, I even cut this test one with nothing in front of it, which would not normally be the case, so for now I'm interested to see just how this works out over time.

    Two thing to keep in mind with the above: 1 - the Router cannot be started without the Dust extraction running and the required vacuum actually being present! 2 - I have been testing this with almost 3" loss in vacuum due to one totally clogged filter bag and only a small test cyclone on the other side of the 3HP DC outlet - One side has a bag the other side a small test cyclone. That test cyclone is the only reason the DE is still usable at this time.

    BTW with this reduced extraction flow rate there is not a speck of dust in the lower cabinet, the router collet is virtually spotless the motor is even cleaner, not even a speck of dust makes it to the table - nothing escapes above table from the router bit.

  16. #60
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Caboolture QLD AU
    Posts
    781

    Default A bit more progress on the fence.

    Fence top glued on.


    I decided to mount the fence position readout to the back of the router table, it's supported by an aluminium square tube, the assembly swings down out of the way when needed. These DRO heads have a very clear display with large digits making them very easy to read. This mounting position is in keeping with the idea of having the fence uncluttered, making simple reconfiguration with various jigs's etc. a simple task.

    Now the only connection to the fence is the slide, loosen two screws one turn and the the slide disconnects from the fence when needed, it's now even easer to remove the new fence when compared to the old one.


Page 4 of 18 FirstFirst 12345678914 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Router table - Build or buy?
    By Dazm in forum ROUTING FORUM
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 12th November 2015, 11:35 AM
  2. New router table build - no really!
    By snowyskiesau in forum ROUTING FORUM
    Replies: 24
    Last Post: 14th November 2013, 08:02 AM
  3. New router table build
    By snowyskiesau in forum ROUTING FORUM
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 27th May 2012, 01:35 PM
  4. Another router table build.
    By Nihilist37 in forum ROUTING FORUM
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 31st May 2009, 07:30 PM
  5. Want to build a table for router and cms
    By Guy in forum HAND TOOLS - POWERED
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 23rd June 2004, 12:31 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •