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  1. #1
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    Default router table...router selection

    hey guys....
    i want to build myself a router table....it will be used for odd jobs here and there.......im just wondering what woulkd be a good router to get to mount underneath...i have seen in bunnings a AEG brand router that is 1350w 1/2 inch collet for 199 or i can buy a ryobi 1250w 1/2 inch collet for 129....is this big enough for a router table???

    which router would be best to use??

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  3. #2
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    Forgive me rellik as I dont mean to hijack your thread, but I have a similar question and I thought it would be better to merge them into one post rather than having 2 threads almost exactly the same I bought the ozito router at Bunnings as I've never used one before and was not sure if I would ever use it again. My question is the same as relliks...would that be suitable for a router table?

  4. #3
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    Hey guys,

    I would be looking at something in the 1/2hp area, Hitachi, Makita, Triton etc.

    If I was building a router table today, I would be all over this https://www.woodworkforums.com/f20/un...terest-151520/ Like a rash.

    I would also invest in something like an Incra Fence. For simply running an Ogee bit around a lump of wood, this is not necessary, but if you want to start using bits like a Lock Miter Bit etc, you really need fine adjustment both up & down as well as in & out.

    Hope this helps

    Steve
    The fact remains, that 97% of all statistics are made up, yet 87% of the population think they are real.

  5. #4
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    I got sick of having a router table and having to take the router on and off. Try this https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/W846
    The fence sucks but that can be fixed, everything else is great.......2hp to play with.
    They also have a generic stand that it will (after drilling 4 holes) bolt onto.

    Ross

  6. #5
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    Crowborough, East Sussex, UK
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rellik
    I have seen in bunnings a AEG brand router that is 1350w 1/2 inch collet for 199 or i can buy a ryobi 1250w 1/2 inch collet for 129....is this big enough for a router table?
    Both are packing much less punch than I would go for. I would be looking for the following in a router for table use:

    2,000 Watts minimum (you simply can't better raw power)
    Variable speed (to be able to handle the larger bits a table tends to be made for)
    Soft start (if it will ever be used hand-held)
    Good height adjustment built in (to avoid buying expensive and unnecessary router lifts)
    Ability to change bits easily when mounted in the table.

    There are only a couple of makes that fulfil all these points, Festool and Triton. Your budget will have a bigger impact on your choice than anything else, but good luck in the choosing!

    Ray

  7. #6
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    I've had an Hitachi TR12 for quite a few years. It's had a fair bit of use and is reliable and powerful but...

    It's heavy, no variable speed and kicks like a mule on startup.

    It's now got a broken base (concrete floor) so I'm considering a new router. So far, Triton is top of my list.

  8. #7
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    Ray's post covers the essentials so I can really only reiterate.

    For dedicated table use buy the largest machine you can affford. Make sure it has variable speed. You will need that if you use large bits such as for panel raising and mouldings.

    The majority of routers have to be removed from the table to change the bits. This is where the unilift comes into its own. (See Ticky's post. Incidentally I think he made a typo as 1/2 HP will hardly get you a laminate trimmer), but it will cost as much as a large router (actually more as I think they are talking $600, but if it is like the original from america it will be a beautiful bit of gear).

    Triton routers do not have to be removed from the table to change bits and for table use this gives them a huge advantage. I don't really like the large one for hand held use, but for table use it is unbeatable at the price.

    The triton is around 3HP. I don't think you should consider anything under 2HP for the table.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  9. #8
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    All very informative thank you! But all in all, is there a reason I SHOULDN'T mount my ozito in a table, you know, for experiments sake?

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by shaunno View Post
    All very informative thank you! But all in all, is there a reason I SHOULDN'T mount my ozito in a table, you know, for experiments sake?
    Lots of reasons why you shouldn't, but none why you can't. Yes experiment, but don't ask it to do too much. I don't think you mentioned what size it is. An Ozito router is the only tool I have burnt out, although it was probably faulty.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by shaunno
    All very informative thank you! But all in all, is there a reason I SHOULDN'T mount my ozito in a table, you know, for experiments sake?
    I've looked on Bunnings site and the only Ozito router I could find was the 850W 6.35mm (1/4") OZITO PRR-850 Plunge Router. If that's the model you refer to, then I would say that the reason you shouldn't table-mount it is that it would be a total waste of time.

    It's vastly underpowered for inverted use of any kind and is barely more than a trim router hand-held. With a ¼" collet it's even less use and it will be extremely easy to bog it down, stall it and burn out the field windings.

    Naturally, you probably will mount it anyway, as you seem headed down that path. Good luck, but please don't expect much!

    Ray

  12. #11
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    yes you're right, it is the 850w model. based on all your advise, i wont waste my time To be honest i have not used it much and i've never owned one, so i didnt want to spend a fortune in something i might not have used. When i can afford it (and when i get more experience!), i will buy a better qualty tool. Thanks for the replies all

  13. #12
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    thanx for the replies guys
    im thinking i might save some extra cash and get a triton 2000w router at tax time.....

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post

    The majority of routers have to be removed from the table to change the bits. This is where the unilift comes into its own. (See Ticky's post. Incidentally I think he made a typo as 1/2 HP will hardly get you a laminate trimmer),

    Regards
    Paul
    Hey Paul,

    It wasn't a typo, I think I was just a little brain dead that night. I was thinking of my Triton when I wrote it, so I don't know where the mythical 1/2hp came from.

    Thank you for correcting my error & might I add, in a very diplomatic way

    Steve
    The fact remains, that 97% of all statistics are made up, yet 87% of the population think they are real.

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