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  1. #1
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    Default Router Table Top

    Contrary to normal practise I need to make or buy a light stiff top that can be lifted off the table to access the internals of my yet to be built router table. My inclination is to get away from a top with wood in it or MDF as they are either too heavy or twist and warp. As it won't have a router attached to it the thickness is not hugely important but I suspect 20mm would be about where I would like it to be. What composite boards or stuff like kitchen counter material would be suitable? Has anyone gt any suggestions that won't break the bank, I looked at Aluminium plate and new it is a totally stupid price and unless it is anodised would tend to leave oxidation on pieces being pushed across it. All suggestions welcome because I haven't got any idea at the moment.
    CHRIS

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Acrylic sheet acka perspex from the green shed, comes in a variety of WxLxT
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by rwbuild View Post
    Acrylic sheet acka perspex from the green shed, comes in a variety of WxLxT

    I will have a look but I think it will bend. I also need to put a mitre slot into it but I could build layers where that needs to go.
    CHRIS

  5. #4
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    I'm thinking Baltic Birch Ply -- though at 20 mm thick it may be no less expensive than 5 mm Al plate.

    Perhaps build a torsion box from 6mm Baltic Birch ply -- you do have a powered stapler?
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  6. #5
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    The mitre slot is the problem with using thin material but, as you say, you could build up underneath to support it.
    How big is the top going to be? Will there be partition walls underneath to support the top if using thinner material?
    This crowd’s prices aren’t too bad but it’s only 5mm?
    https://www.aluminiumtc.com.au/store...00-x-2400-635/

    I’m interested too as I’m looking at doing a similar top for my arduino controlled router lift.

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    I'm thinking Baltic Birch Ply -- though at 20 mm thick it may be no less expensive than 5 mm Al plate.

    Perhaps build a torsion box from 6mm Baltic Birch ply -- you do have a powered stapler?
    Ian, a torsion box did cross my mind using 3mm MDF core/6mm skins due to its excellent glueing characteristic and then machine back into it to make the mitre slot but I will leave that as a last resort. I am going to see if any kitchen mobs have Corian off cuts though it is a material I know nothing about.

    I just looked at the link that Lappa put up, I reckon I will use 1/2" or 3/4" aluminium at those prices and get it anodised after machining the edges half round. Thanks Lappa.
    CHRIS

  8. #7
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    Chris
    If you do go the torsion box route, I suggest that you double the skin depth under the mitre slot location
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  9. #8
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    Default

    Just looking at the table with the top off, the largest span is the router / spindle motor box section at around 300 mm, assuming that the complete router cabinet is made torsionally strong (if that makes sense), especially one that is movable, then the span is not that great, and as Chris pointed out, there is no longer the bulk weight of a router hanging off the underside of the table top, in fact it doesn't even support the fence as that floats about 1 mm above the top.

    The aluminium looks good, I was also looking at Polycarbonate / Lexan and it can be had in thickness's up to 25 mm, no trouble drilling cutting finishing and fitting a mitre slot if desired in that. Prices didn't seem to be exorbitant, maybe another option to look at?

    BTW The current top is 25 mm thick and the typical kitchen top material, they were sold as non-sag shelves with a single small holding point at each end, I have a spare for the new top when this router table build is finalised, I only mention it again as the current old top is still flat and at 25 mm thick they are easy enough to lift off and on.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    Chris
    If you do go the torsion box route, I suggest that you double the skin depth under the mitre slot location
    Ian, I was going to machine the core and top sheet out and insert a piece of timber in there.
    CHRIS

  11. #10
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    I was thinking something like this
    Router Table Top-router-table-false-top-jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  12. #11
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    The webs might only be 10 to 15mm deep. so machine the minimum need down to the bottom sheet,and drop in a piece of timber that already has the mitre slot attached. I am just kicking tyres on this at the moment because this is so different to conventional thinking and practise and I bet it turns out differently to what I am thinking now. I wouldn't be surprised to see custom tops for different jobs in the long run. Instead of building a jig, build a top and drop it on whenever it is needed and all the jig set up goes away.
    CHRIS

  13. #12
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    I've just had another look at MandJ's prototype router table.
    I think you need at least 2 tops
    Both tops should -- on the working side -- be faced with plastic laminate to produce a low friction surface,
    one top should have provision for a starting pin and perhaps nothing more.
    the other top could have a starting pin and a miter track, or carriage track -- but keeping the carriage track / miter track aligned with teh fence could be a major challenge.
    (by "carriage track" I'm thinking a track to carry/steer something like this Veritas right angled sled Veritas® Right-Angle Sled - Lee Valley Tools )



    without wishing to side-track your thinking, have you seen this Ready2Routâ„¢ Digital Router Fence System - Lee Valley Tools
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  14. #13
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    I think that the positive location of the top on fixed pins makes it easy to align the mitre track with the fence and is one of the many benefits of having the fence independent of the top and no router and lift hanging from it. IIRC Mike has already made something like your link.
    CHRIS

  15. #14
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    Thanks Ian,
    Thats a nice right angle sled and a reasonable price with all the features it has.
    The digital router fence is another story - wow that’s dear even if you can get the stated accuracy from it (0.001”).
    Getting that sort of accuracy, consistently, isn’t easy and I’ll be posting in my digital proof of concept thread the adventures i’ve been having with stepper motor drivers, DROs and accuracy. Achieving that sort of accuracy is the reason I would be hesitant to rely on some of the currently available DROs to control a microprocessor.

  16. #15
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    The digital router fence only does half of what Mike's will do as it does not have the electronic control of the lift. I will let Mike comment on the differences in control but you still have the router and lift hanging from the underside of the table top and that just cost a shed load of money over and above the electronically controlled fence. The beauty of Mike's version is there is no external computer needed and all job information is storable in memory.
    CHRIS

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