Thread: Slab levelling router bit beast

AP Workshop have effectively closed down. Contact Carbitool direct at [email protected]. The online router bit catalogue is here - CARB I TOOL Australia Pty Ltd.:.Sharpening services, Saw Blades, Router Bits - Catalogue - have a look at page 41.

DO NOT USE A 6 FLUTE BIT

Those bits are designed for use on solid surface materials like Corian. You can't feed them fast enough by hand to keep the proper chip load, so you'll be making too much heat which will burn up the cutting edge very quickly and you'll end up with a poor and/or burnt finish.

There are 2 flute bits available and I suggest they are much more appropriate for what you're doing

She is beautiful.

can you do a video of it in action?

I'm no longer using this bit. I've replaced it with a smaller Amana tools bit (RC 2247) that also has replaceable cutters on it. A good finish is produced as long as your router jig is accurate. Not currently setup to use this as busy working on other projects using tas myrtle at the moment. If I pull it out i'll be sure to make a video.

I have a router bit that has been specifically designed for slab levelling
Made in Australia

Its 60 mm diameter and has 6 off 4 sided tct tips

Hi mate
If your interested
If have had a special router designed and manufactured here in australia specifically for levelling our rock hard aussie hardwoods
It is 60 mm diameter and has 6 off 4 sided replaceable tct tips
Regards Andrew

I have the same cutter in the same router. I found if you dont bite off more than half the diameter at once it cuts fairly well, if you get greedy it wants to climb a bit. Like elan said though, back the speed off and make it work, don’t be shy to push it along, go slowly and it will dull quickly, and that’s when it will want to bite you.

Originally Posted by malb

Hope you have a darn good router to turn it, and very strong arms to hold/control it in your jig. We used to use an 80mm dia similar bit as a spoilboard skimmer for the commercial CNC I used to feed and care for. Typically around 4KW (of the 8KW available) for a 0.5mm depth of cut in fresh (skin on) MDF spoilboard, around 3KW for a similar cut depth once the skin was off the sheet.

I was thinking the same thing, but I guess it would come down to how well the bit is balanced. Even our TRA001 vibrates a tads with some big bit. The Bosch 1600CE I've recently acquired seems to be bomb proof with anything I've put in it so far though, and both fixed and plunge bases are the best I've ever used by a fair margin.