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  1. #1
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    Default Stuck Router Bits

    Hi WWF,

    i have 2 Triton routers and on both of them it is an absolute B#%^ to get to bits out. I have tried tapping and using WD40 before and after use and still no luck.

    If the bit is small enough I can take the locking bolt (don't know the proper name) off and then pry the collet loose with a screw driver. For larger bits there is a lot of tapping and pulling by hand and it can take 15 mins to get it out. This is highly frustrating. On the weekend I damaged the cutter head on my expensive 19mm straight bit and made a nice gash in my thumb.

    Do others out there have the same problem with Triton routers and if so how have you resolved it?

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  3. #2
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    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
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    Perhaps the collet has surface rust on the inside? Maybe the easiest solution is to buy two new collets (regardless of rust or not).
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  4. #3
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    Default

    How old are they? There are two type of collet in use, the later type can jam if you don't follow do these:

    Ensure the collet is "clicked" into the collet nut before you go anywhere near the machine. It should be able to rotate freely in the nut but definitely should NOT pull out easily.

    Never bottom out the bit in the chuck. Push the bit down until it does bottom out, then pull it back out 2 maybe 3mm. Then tighten.

    When you want to remove the bit, first you loosen the collet nut with the spanner. Then continue loosening by hand until it mysteriously tightens up again. Then get the spanner back on and loosen it AGAIN.

    The way these work is that the tapered sides of the collet are forced into the chuck by tightening the nut, when you release the collet nut it allows the nut to spin but the collet is still jammed in the chuck. Keep turning as the nut runs up the thread until it is prevented from moving any more because the collet is locked into both the chuck and the nut. As you turn the nut with the spanner again it pulls the collet out of the tapers in the chuck; but only if it was properly "clicked" into the nut in the first place.

    Now I apologise if the above is teaching you to suck eggs. Unfortunately I've seen it too many times to automatically assume you are putting it together properly

    The earlier type of collet never had this problem but they weren't as good at holding and sometimes weren't as concentric as you'd like.

    Lastly, Chinese crud bits, rusty bits and 12mm European bits instead of 1/2" (12.7mm) will also jam up, irrespective of whatever you do.

  5. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Perhaps the collet has surface rust on the inside? Maybe the easiest solution is to buy two new collets (regardless of rust or not).
    About 18 months - no rust

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    Ensure the collet is "clicked" into the collet nut before you go anywhere near the machine. It should be able to rotate freely in the nut but definitely should NOT pull out easily.

    Never bottom out the bit in the chuck. Push the bit down until it does bottom out, then pull it back out 2 maybe 3mm. Then tighten.

    Lastly, Chinese crud bits, rusty bits and 12mm European bits instead of 1/2" (12.7mm) will also jam up, irrespective of whatever you do.
    Thanks for the detailed reply.

    You have me thinking I am not installing the bit correctly now.... I think I usually put the collet into the router, place the collet Nut on and turn once, place the bit in (think I usually bottom it out) and then tighten. Reading your post it would seem you push the collet into the top of the bolt and then put it on the router, insert the bit and tighten.

    Have I read this correctly?

    I am using top of the range Freud bits. Hopefully I can fix the one I damaged.

  7. #6
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    Default

    Yep; that'll explain it. If you look at the collet there is a circumferential groove; this fits into a clip inside the collet nut. You have to push the collet into the nut quite firmly until it goes "click"; try putting the collet on a workbench then placing the nut over it, and push down.

    When it's fitted properly it should be quite hard to remove, but able to spin freely within the nut.

    Now you can pop it back into the chuck; slip in your bit and tighten.

    When you've finished, loosen the nut with the spanner and spin the nut by hand until it locks up again, then again with the spanner. This then pulls the collet out of the chuck and you then just pull the bit out by hand.

    Can't fault your choice of bits; Freud, CMT and Trend are the best in the world.

  8. #7
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    As a result of a tip on here quite some time ago, I placed a small rubber "O" ring in the bottom of the collet of my TR12 to prevent the bit from hitting the bottom of the collet.
    Tom

    "It's good enough" is low aim

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    Yep; that'll explain it.

    Can't fault your choice of bits; Freud, CMT and Trend are the best in the world.
    Dont I feel like a dick.

    Will give that that a go on the weekend.

    i am gutted I damaged a bit as a result of improper use and stupidity. (The thumb will heal)

    Love the Freud bits. The quality of my cuts and the resulting work has been measurably better since I made the switch. Got a kit while on a recent business trip in the USA. Oz prices are just horrible.

    thanks for your help

  10. #9
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    Don't feel bad, it happens to the best of us.

    (Well, apart from me obviously! )

    Glad we could identify the problem before another Freud got hurt. If you have a good tool sharpener in the area he may be able to rehab the damaged cutter to a different size?

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    Yep; that'll explain it. If you look at the collet there is a circumferential groove; this fits into a clip inside the collet nut. You have to push the collet into the nut quite firmly until it goes "click"; try putting the collet on a workbench then placing the nut over it, and push down.
    .
    Just had a look at my Tritons. One is setup correctly but the other is definitely wrong. I tried to insert the collet as you suggested above however I could not get the collet to fit by pushing in down and into the collet nut. Even gave it a few wacks with a rubber mallet. Turned the nut over and tried to push the collet up from the bottom; small hit with a mallet and a piece of wood and it clicked straight into place.

    Will test over over the weekend to see if it fixes my problem however I am quite confident it is now all sorted.

  12. #11
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    I am a big fan of the rubber O ring in the collet. It can be awkward to try to lift the bit and tighten it while not allowing the bit to bottom out. As you tighten the collet you are actually forcing the bit deeper into the collet with the tightening action. If the bit is in contact with the bottom it it becomes a pressure fit which as others have found can be difficult to undo. The O ring keeps the bit off the bottom, allows for some compression but still allows for easy removal when the time comes to change bits.

    Try it, an easy fix.

  13. #12
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    Default

    Just a few new observations.

    Have just bought the Hitachi M12 VE not as a replacement for the old reliable, bullet proof Hitachi TR12 but as an addition to the armoury with the additional advantage of variable speed.

    Have had to modify my homebuilt router table for the new variable speed M12 VE. This one is made in Malaysia while the old one was Japan. They appear to have tried to address the stuck router bit problem which has been around since I don't know when. The new one has a totally different collet arrangement - external thread, captured split collet for clenching the bit and the bottom has a cone shape. With the external part of the collet removed the centre bottoms out art 33.3mm while the edge is at 30.5mm. The old TR12 with the collet complete and internal thread, bottoms out at 26mm and is flat bottomed. I have still dropped an O ring in the bottom as old habits die hard and I figure it can't do any harm.

    My only real gripes so far have been - My home made lift works on lifting at the handles using a wood vice in reverse - the old one had the handles at exactly the same height - the new one had one handle 2.7mm lower than the other. The new one has a flat section on the base as opposed to a circle on the old one - not sure if this will be an advantage to me. Not at all fussed on the ON/OFF switch on the new one - it is a slider as opposed to a rocker switch on the old one - the feel of it does not appear to be as positive or as robust. These last 2 bits I was aware of when I bought it and figured I could live with it as I am a big fan of Hitachi routers. It would of course be nice if they, [the company], could give some ballpark figure for the variable speed dial - 1=approx X revs, 6= approx Y revs - the manual [in 7 languages] like most modern manuals falls into the category of needing to improve to be classed as inadequate. I don't have a problem but anyone who is new or has never used a router before could find it a bit of a challenge.

    Anyone with an M12VE - I would be more than happy to hear your views - positive/negative, any problems.

    Regards,
    Bob

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