Thread: Triton router in table and dust collection set-up

Originally Posted by Lappa

Not sure whether this should be in the Cleansweep thread, Triton forum or Dust forum but anyways.

It doesn't matter but I would think about adding a cross linked post somewhere in the Dust forum - even if its in one of your existing threads.

When mounting your Triton in a table with the cavity/space below connected to the extraction system, is anyone removing all the plastic dust shroud to make it easier to extract the dust? If not, are you leaving the plastic shroud hose hole open or are you connecting a hose to it to go to the extraction connection?

I removed mine as I found I got slightly more chip pull through to underside of the table

Also, how are you connecting your fence extraction.

I'm using 100 mm extraction above and below the table
You've probably seen my setup in this thread Ducting update.
The above table collection is excellent. The below section also extracts well but could use some more air inlet holes.
The issues above the table is when needing to operate without a fence.
I'm fortunate to have a 1200 CFM ventilator at ceiling height immediately above the TS and router table which makes short work of escaped fine dust.

Does anyone extract from the cavity below and not use a door? I find myself often with
the need to have access to the router and I am wondering whether having a door is going to be a pain.
There must be many, many different set-ups and I'm interested in all set-ups

My temporary under table setup is in the same thread above.
Its like that until I get the urge to make a proper cabinet for it.
I reckon a tapered bottom will also assist chip removal.

Iv'e used setup with a cabinet door and they were OK - just make sure the cabinet and door are big enough to be able to get at the controls and allow plenty of air inlets.

Originally Posted by BobL

Iv'e used setup with a cabinet door and they were OK - just make sure the cabinet and door are big enough to be able to get at the controls and allow plenty of air inlets.

Hi Bob,

Is there a formula to calculate the ideal area of the air inlet vs the hose diameter?

Originally Posted by cava

Hi Bob,

Is there a formula to calculate the ideal area of the air inlet vs the hose diameter?

Not really because it depends on the airflow pathway, and if if there is anything in the way of air flowing between the air inlet and the hose.

Simplest case scenario is nothing between the inlet and the hose, then just having an inlet that is bigger than the duct diameter is all that is required.

If there is stuff in the way of the air flow, e.g. grunions, guards and blades then something even large than this is required something like double the art of the ducting should be OK.

**** WARNING TECHNiCAL NERDY STUFF ******

Venting a cabinet to clear maximum fine sawdust can get quite technical.

The shapes of duct hoods/connections used to remove dust from a cabinet into ducting are discussed in this thread
Improving machine cabinet dust ports
The most efficient shape is the Bell Mouth Hood (BMH) and its also the smallest area with the best efficiency

What I have not described before is the profile of the air inlet to the cabinet.
If the cross section of the inlet is double or more the are of the ducting the profile doesn't matter that much.
However if you only have limited space then a "double BMH" is the most efficient.
This is shown on the "inlet" in the diagram.

Ideally the inlet should be on the opposite wall of the cabinet to the outlet so the double BMH location in the picture below suits an outlet on the opposite side as shown.
However on a TS and router cabinet, if possible it's better to have the outlet at the bottom because thats where the big chips will fall.
Corners will be dead spaces so sometimes it pays to put small holes in the cabinet corners - shown as "A" in the diagram.

If you have even less space then partial BMHs are still worth doing.
These are also discussed in the above thread

Screen Shot 2017-02-14 at 4.24.52 PM.png

Some folks rely on gaps in the sides of cabinets where trunion controls are located on on gaps between the cabinet and table top.
Generally these don't help as much as their area suggestions so I recommend not counting these in any inlet are size calculations.