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Thread: Triton TRA001 is self lowering
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9th June 2017, 02:36 PM #1
Triton TRA001 is self lowering
<fun story="">(fun story)
I thought my old faithful TRA001 was buggered last night. It ran out of winding power. Went to change a bit and .... no lift.
As always, smack bang in the middle of a critical commish and a busy week ahead.
Annnnyyyyyway - it was nice and clean on the outside, so at 8pm it was pulled from the table and disassembled.
What a mess inside!!!!
The undertable has a 100mm DC attached to it and its always on. Box is clean, but the insides of the router were clagged. A mystery.
Fully disassembled it was blasted completely clean with compressed air. Non-mysteriously the gears now worked (why plastic??????!!!!). SO I bunged it back in the under the plate and gave it a test. Magic blue smoke stayed inside and it screamed for work.
Lifter now works smooth as silk.
</fun>(/fun story)
What I noticed, however, is the vibration of it being on is such that it self-lowers slowly. If I leave the winder in to measure/observe, its about 1/8th of a turn every 10 to 15 seconds of being on. Clearly the harmonic is enough to razzle the gearing into action.
As its undertable, reaching and locking the black lock handle after each minute adjustment is a royal PITA.
Does anyone have any advice on how to stop this harmonic lowering, and/or a hint on how to keep it in place?
BTW, this behaviour I saw when it was new, but obviously stopped as the gearing became clagged.
OAM, I'm going to buy a lifter and router from PWS too Yay! Router & Lift Package
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9th June 2017 02:36 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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9th June 2017, 02:58 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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Reach under the table and lock the handle. It does more than stopping the the router from self lowering. It tightens up the connection between the motor body and the posts. With a router bit installed in the router and the locking clamp unclamped, you can probably rock the bit back n forwards a HUGE distance (mine is about 0.8mm on my MOF001, my TRA001 is awaiting resuscitation). The rocking is from the play between the posts and motor body.
I make minor changes under the table. Unclamp -> minor change -> clamp. Easier to make accurate adjustments with eyes level to the table surface. Since I have already bent at the hips or knees to make the adjustment, it isn't difficult to reach under the table.
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9th June 2017, 03:10 PM #3
Like you I have a 4" hose connected to the undertable box, but also have a 2 1/2" connected direct to the router dust port, certainly seems to make a big difference.
I also always lock the black handle, not worth taking a risk that it drops part way through a job.
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9th June 2017, 03:25 PM #4
BigShed, I like that racing header Clever the use of that secondary pipe too.
Kuffy, I think I would have to be the same. My poor knees. (Yesterday after a 12 hours day they were screaming!)
I didnt know about the lock holding the post and whatnot in place. I just give mine a test wiggle and its pretty non-wiggly. Have to say Ive not noticed it to be a problem, but now its pointed out to me it will probably be rather obvious.
Oh well, off the modify the cabinet. I'll put on a hinged door with magnetic latch. I'll also add a side pipe like BigShed at the back (currently at the front, which is in the way). This will be a good short afternoon job
Pics to follow.
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9th June 2017, 04:35 PM #5Woodworking mechanic
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Here's my TRA001
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njmALtC0N3o
Mine has been like this since new. I even bought new collet asemblies in case they were the problem. It improved it a little but still there so I always lock the plunger lever.
My dust set-up is similar to Big Shed's with an 125mm extractor hose in the housing and a 35mm on the router dust outlet
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9th June 2017, 04:54 PM #6
When I fitted my TRA 001 the black locking lever is facing me, so open cabinet (which is there for dust pick-up) do the adjustment/change cutter then readjust.
When I want to set a height I always wind down passed where I need to me then wind up to the position necessary then lock it. Its a fundamental and routine way of setting machinery. My very old but very capable Thicky with very heavy in/out tables gets the same treatment. There is backlash in nearly any thing that is threaded you are merely stopping the backlashJust do it!
Kind regards Rod
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9th June 2017, 04:55 PM #7
(quote)Here's my TRA001
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njmALtC0N3o
(/quote)
Yeah! Thats exactly it!
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9th June 2017, 05:51 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
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That's what the lock is for, the way mine is mounted is also with the lock lever towards the front(pre drilled kreg plate) and I just reach in without bending and grab it without getting down to see it. I recall a post a while ago that mentioned a fix with I think an o-ring to stop the backlash that occurs slightly with the lock used and when you release it the bit drops slightly and it was claimed it fixed the problem may be worth a search.
Regards Rod.Rod Gilbert.
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9th June 2017, 06:04 PM #9
Do you put dry lube, lithium or PFTE on the gears when its opened up?
Even though my DC is pretty good for clearing the cruft, the inside was pretty packed.
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