Thread: Triton TRA001 is self lowering

Reach under the table and lock the handle. It does more than stopping the the router from self lowering. It tightens up the connection between the motor body and the posts. With a router bit installed in the router and the locking clamp unclamped, you can probably rock the bit back n forwards a HUGE distance (mine is about 0.8mm on my MOF001, my TRA001 is awaiting resuscitation). The rocking is from the play between the posts and motor body.

I make minor changes under the table. Unclamp -> minor change -> clamp. Easier to make accurate adjustments with eyes level to the table surface. Since I have already bent at the hips or knees to make the adjustment, it isn't difficult to reach under the table.

Like you I have a 4" hose connected to the undertable box, but also have a 2 1/2" connected direct to the router dust port, certainly seems to make a big difference.

I also always lock the black handle, not worth taking a risk that it drops part way through a job.

BigShed, I like that racing header Clever the use of that secondary pipe too.

Kuffy, I think I would have to be the same. My poor knees. (Yesterday after a 12 hours day they were screaming!)

I didnt know about the lock holding the post and whatnot in place. I just give mine a test wiggle and its pretty non-wiggly. Have to say Ive not noticed it to be a problem, but now its pointed out to me it will probably be rather obvious.

Oh well, off the modify the cabinet. I'll put on a hinged door with magnetic latch. I'll also add a side pipe like BigShed at the back (currently at the front, which is in the way). This will be a good short afternoon job

Pics to follow.

Here's my TRA001

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njmALtC0N3o

Mine has been like this since new. I even bought new collet asemblies in case they were the problem. It improved it a little but still there so I always lock the plunger lever.

My dust set-up is similar to Big Shed's with an 125mm extractor hose in the housing and a 35mm on the router dust outlet

When I fitted my TRA 001 the black locking lever is facing me, so open cabinet (which is there for dust pick-up) do the adjustment/change cutter then readjust.

When I want to set a height I always wind down passed where I need to me then wind up to the position necessary then lock it. Its a fundamental and routine way of setting machinery. My very old but very capable Thicky with very heavy in/out tables gets the same treatment. There is backlash in nearly any thing that is threaded you are merely stopping the backlash

(quote)Here's my TRA001

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njmALtC0N3o
(/quote)

Yeah! Thats exactly it!

That's what the lock is for, the way mine is mounted is also with the lock lever towards the front(pre drilled kreg plate) and I just reach in without bending and grab it without getting down to see it. I recall a post a while ago that mentioned a fix with I think an o-ring to stop the backlash that occurs slightly with the lock used and when you release it the bit drops slightly and it was claimed it fixed the problem may be worth a search.
Regards Rod.

Do you put dry lube, lithium or PFTE on the gears when its opened up?

Even though my DC is pretty good for clearing the cruft, the inside was pretty packed.