Thread: Tuning in a router

The only suggestion I can make is to shim the mounting point/s using masking tape. If you were using a plate there are screw adjusters available that fit in the corners.

As per above i would also shim let us know how you go making the adjustment

Regards Lou

Originally Posted by aldav

The only suggestion I can make is to shim the mounting point/s using masking tape. If you were using a plate there are screw adjusters available that fit in the corners.

I know how to shim, its calculating which corner/s to shim. can anyone advise on that part?

How about using a slow setting filler like plastibond or epoxy etc in small dollops on each corner ( with a bond breaker) and then adjust the baseplate fixings for tension until you get the spindle square in both axis using a square on a long bit in the spindle?
You need to do your shim adjustments in an X and Y axis as in parallel and perpendicular to your fence

Assuming both faces of the table are parallel with each other you could make a large auxiliary base for the router which would cover the entire recess and just skim the mounting surface with a straight cutter until you have taken a cut over the entire face and that would ensure the mounting face is parallel with the top and bottom.

Originally Posted by Fumbler

I know how to shim, its calculating which corner/s to shim. can anyone advise on that part?

You've already "sort of" answered that in your original post.

Bend coat-hanger wire or similar into a U-shape and fit it in the collet (with the router mounted in-table).

It's simplest if the wire is long enough so that you can actually turn it (by the collet, not the wire!) into positions above each of the mounting screws, as accurately as you can.

Measure table to wire in each position, noting the measurements on bits of marking tape placed appropriately.

The shims needed at each position will be "that spots measured height" minus "the height of the lowest measurement."

Originally Posted by Beardy

the spindle square in both axis using a square on a long bit in the spindle?

This was what i had thought of by getting a 12" rod of 1/4" stainless and using a square, but thought there might have been an easier way. thanks

Thanks for all the tips, I will first try adjusting by the long bit/square method, then if that doesn't work, I might do as Treecycle suggests and either make or buy a base plate then router a recess for that to fit into the board from the topside, that way it ill be flush and flat.

I was hoping not to have to go that far or spend any extra $

Would a depth gauge be accurate enough to do it? Good excuse to get one if you don't already have one.

https://www.carbatec.com.au/machiner...th-gauge-200mm

Well, I'm going to re-route the recess, to ensure that's dead flat, then stick a 1/4 inch drill bit in the collet and use either a custom turned block or use a series of set squares against the drill bit to ensure accuracy.

i have also bought a piece of 10mm acrylic 300 x 450 (so I can get 2) to make a table insert. So if my square off doesn't work I will go the second route and make an insert. Which will definitely be square.