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Thread: Tuning in a router
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28th November 2018, 04:17 PM #1GOLD MEMBER
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Tuning in a router
Team, I have recently revived a previously forgotten home made router table, and since added a new fence and finger joint sled. Although the sled works great and the cheap Chinese import 4 head spiral up cut 1/4" bit works a treat, I have noticed that the router but is ever so slightly off kilter in terms of being perfectly perpendicular to the table in possibly both directions.
i have thought about getting a 12" stainless steel rod and adjusting with various forms to get perfect.
does anyone know or recommend a solution to getting the router bit perpendicular?
i will first clamp the table to a dead flat surface, then go over the current mount flat with another router to ensure its flat, but to ensure accuracy, is there anything else I can do?
heres the recess for the router, now it's out only by a fraction, but a fraction is all it takes to have something not fit right.
IMG_5067.jpg
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28th November 2018, 06:01 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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The only suggestion I can make is to shim the mounting point/s using masking tape. If you were using a plate there are screw adjusters available that fit in the corners.
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29th November 2018, 12:19 AM #3
As per above i would also shim let us know how you go making the adjustment
Regards LouJust Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time
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29th November 2018, 03:50 AM #4GOLD MEMBER
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29th November 2018, 07:14 AM #5GOLD MEMBER
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How about using a slow setting filler like plastibond or epoxy etc in small dollops on each corner ( with a bond breaker) and then adjust the baseplate fixings for tension until you get the spindle square in both axis using a square on a long bit in the spindle?
You need to do your shim adjustments in an X and Y axis as in parallel and perpendicular to your fence
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29th November 2018, 10:26 AM #6
Assuming both faces of the table are parallel with each other you could make a large auxiliary base for the router which would cover the entire recess and just skim the mounting surface with a straight cutter until you have taken a cut over the entire face and that would ensure the mounting face is parallel with the top and bottom.
Dallas
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29th November 2018, 11:40 AM #7
You've already "sort of" answered that in your original post.
Bend coat-hanger wire or similar into a U-shape and fit it in the collet (with the router mounted in-table).
It's simplest if the wire is long enough so that you can actually turn it (by the collet, not the wire!) into positions above each of the mounting screws, as accurately as you can.
Measure table to wire in each position, noting the measurements on bits of marking tape placed appropriately.
The shims needed at each position will be "that spots measured height" minus "the height of the lowest measurement."
- Andy Mc
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30th November 2018, 02:17 AM #8GOLD MEMBER
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30th November 2018, 02:22 AM #9GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks for all the tips, I will first try adjusting by the long bit/square method, then if that doesn't work, I might do as Treecycle suggests and either make or buy a base plate then router a recess for that to fit into the board from the topside, that way it ill be flush and flat.
I was hoping not to have to go that far or spend any extra $
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30th November 2018, 07:39 AM #10Senior Member
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Would a depth gauge be accurate enough to do it? Good excuse to get one if you don't already have one.
https://www.carbatec.com.au/machiner...th-gauge-200mm
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4th December 2018, 05:21 PM #11GOLD MEMBER
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Well, I'm going to re-route the recess, to ensure that's dead flat, then stick a 1/4 inch drill bit in the collet and use either a custom turned block or use a series of set squares against the drill bit to ensure accuracy.
i have also bought a piece of 10mm acrylic 300 x 450 (so I can get 2) to make a table insert. So if my square off doesn't work I will go the second route and make an insert. Which will definitely be square.
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