Thread: Waldo's Router Table

Waldo,

I'm thinking 2hp dust extractor pulling through a 100 diameter hole vs one teensy weensy fan?

Don't do it!

The Dustie will pull enough air down over the router so you won't have to worry.

Cheers,

P

Waldo,

PC fans run at 12V powdered by the PC's power supply. However 240V version are available such as this from Dick Smith

http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/Y8500

However it produces 85cfm volume. Given the dusty id what 600 - 1200 cfm, I thinking there may be a problem here (if I am understanding you right)

Cheers,
Glenn

Originally Posted by bitingmidge

The Dustie will pull enough air down over the router so you won't have to worry.

Cheers,

P

G'day Bittingmidge,

Hadn't thought of that - thanks.

Thanks for the link Glenn_M, looks like I won't need it though.

I'll make this a WIP, but it'll be a while before there's anything to see, so a bit of patience will be needed.

I had this problem.

For the extraction to work efficiently, the box around the router has to be sealed. The only opening once the access door is closed, should be the router bit hole. The fan attached to the arbour is small but draws a lot of air and is crucial to machine function. My experience is that the induction vents at the top of the router (bottom when inverted) will clog. Not all of the dust is extracted and the router itself pulls in dust.

I haven't gotten around to doing it myself but I think a good solution would be a big piece of accordion pipe attached and sealed to the top of the router. The outside edge of the other end should then be sealed to a hole in the bottom of the box.

The machine ventilation then stays seperate from the dust box. You can still reach up and through to set the router height.

Hope this helps.

Damien

The 2001 edition of FWW Tools and Shops has the answer!

A small trick with the fence, and a hole in the table bringing all the dust down into the box, and a small metal deflector over the router to fix the dust in it syndrome... Waldo, check your PM's.

cheers,

P

G'day,

Next question.

What's the general measurement of the lip that supports the router table insert?

The size of the table insert minus the minimum hole you need to drop the router through.
That makes it a big as possible.

I worked mine out with a bit of scrap... just roughed it a bit small by eye & tried it & then enlarged it til it would fit over the router & then used that as a template to draw the 'cut out' on the real thing.

BTW. Did you see Stu's Router Table?

And this one from White Mountain?

G'day,

Thanks Cliff.

G'day,

Here's the progress of my router table so far in Ketch-up.

There's a bit to go yet as I have to include the:

• 2 x Incra Scale Track Gold tacks into the table top (t/top will be an Engineered Router Top care of Professional Woodworking Supplies)

• the router lift assembly. (based on Bob38's)

• and the fence

• table back with 4" hose access

and a few other bits

G'day,

Getting a bit closer now to starting the r/table.

A question though. I was just intending to butt-join the whole thing and glue and screw, now I'm wondering if I should run dadoes in the areas I've circled?

The benefit is easier and faster contstruction, but is there a downside to this?

Can't see why not, as you say it will be easier and faster, probably also be more rigid as well

G'day Dj,

My thoughts as well.

G'day guys, I've been checking out the link that Cliff posted with regards to Stu's router table that he built with the step by step photos. (great link)
Now I was just wondering as I'm in the process of making my own router table at the moment.... what are "zero clearance spacers" and how do they work?
Probably sounds stupid to some of you but I figured I'd better ask as they seem important and if you don't ask questions, you don't learn anything.
Bugger me I've been asking a lot of questions lately. thought this would be a nice easy project
Cheers
Max