World's Cheapes Router Insert

**bitingmidge** · 5th June 2004, 02:16 PM

(Not counting the cost of the router!

)

Upgrading my router table is one of those never ending high priority jobs...when I first built it I had no dust collection, and no money. (Only the former has changed, but I have spent a lot of the latter in the interim!) I am a bit of a gadgeteer, so like most of us, had to work with what I had, and was concerned that bolting the router to the underside of the table would restrict the depth of cut severely.

I had scrounged all the timber and the laminated MDF top, but couldn't afford (or find) any material for an insert so decided to build a flange so support the router base flush with the table top.

I did have to buy the bolts and wing nuts to match the routers thread, but everything else was free.

It has worked so well that I am thinking of using the same system in my new, revised table. Adjustments are made by using the standard router depth screws and locks, and the router base itself can be fitted exactly flush with the top by adjusting the wingnuts, and the router is held securely using it's standard mounting points. (I am wary of inserts which rely only on gravity...)

A circle is cut in the table top to exactly the size of the router (it's a gentle press-fit - although the arris on the base plate my show differently in the photos).

Bits are changed with the router in place, by plunging it to it's to its full depth.

1) View from below: Flange is 12mm MDF with ply bits shaped to fit router body, and is screwed to standard router fence fixing points. Bolts have wing nuts threaded on them for ease of use, and tap straight into the MDF Table.

2) Top view of Flange. Note countersinking of router mounting bolt holes to capture the machine.

3) Bottom view of Flange. Router cutout is in the background!

I was concerned that dust and general stuff would wreak havoc with the router, so made the following inserts from the ends of postage pack tubes, which fit almost exactly.

4) Top Insert in place: used when the Router is not in use to ensure screws, nails or other nasty debris don't find their way into the router body!

5) Top and Bottom Inserts

6) Bottom insert inplace; A push fit in the underside of the table and leaves about 15mm ventilation space to the router body. Without dust control, this fills up with chips in about 1/100th of a second! (but none of them get into the router)

So there it is boys and girls: Do I use this mounting system as the basis for my next table, or buy a flash insert just to be like everyone else?

If those with tons of routing experience could enlighten me of any traps, I'd appreciate it.

On dust control, I expect to have the router in a closed cupboard, with extraction through it via the new fence ala FWW's ultimate router table, similar to Wayne Davey's setup.

Cheers,

P

**Bob Willson** · 5th June 2004, 03:16 PM

If your system works and is accurate then why change?

Save your money up to buy a new tool.

**SteveI** · 5th June 2004, 04:36 PM

bitingmidge

It's not clear to me how the router sits on the flange - I have a Makita and the "top" of my base is not flat (ie when the router is sitting in the hand-held position)

So it strikes me the flange would not be parallel to the base when screwed in tight and so would push the router off vertical... or is the Ryobi flat on top so the flange sits parallel?

**bitingmidge** · 5th June 2004, 04:44 PM

Steve,
The circular bit on the "flange" in picture 2, is a "reverse pattern" which fits the base as though it was moulded to it, and brings all into line. It is also the bit which locates the router securely.

I was originally going to mould that bit in Builder's Bog, but couldn't scrounge any, so shaped it by hand. It is not a very big job, and doesn't need any sophisticated tools, but the more tools the merrier I reckon!

Bob,

I probably will do the same again, but I haven't seen anyone else do it this way, which makes me suspect there is a big trap waiting to bite me!!

I have just gone and bought TWO more of those dastardly GMC $39.00 things....now I have to build a verticle table as well, (may as well make a morticer while I'm at it!) I was at Bunnies with my beloved, who suggested we buy one for our son-in-law, then blow me down if she didn't say...."why don't you get another one as a spare....it's less than the cost of parking in the city!"

cheers,

P

**Bob Willson** · 5th June 2004, 06:57 PM

Err .. She's not looking for a spare hubby too is she?

**Wayne Davy** · 5th June 2004, 09:29 PM

BitingMidge

That is just brilliant!!! I think the reason you have not seen it before is that no one has thought of mounting the router that way. Well done.

**outback** · 6th June 2004, 01:00 PM

bloody brilliant, simple idea carried out with simplicity, ya can't go wrong.
My only point of disagreement is your statement-

(I am wary of inserts which rely only on gravity...)

I can't remember the last time gravity went on the blink.

sorry couldn't resist.

**SteveI** · 6th June 2004, 01:40 PM

Outback

I agree with bitingmidge about gravity - in this case

One bit of kickback and the router would be ready to come out of the housing and join you.... or perhap "dis-join" you at 15,000rpm

**Bob Willson** · 7th June 2004, 04:06 PM

Originally Posted by bitingmidge

On dust control, I expect to have the router in a closed cupboard, with extraction through it via the new fence ala FWW's ultimate router table, similar to Wayne Davey's setup.

One problem with an enclosed cupboard is the difficulty of making adjustments from beneath the table. I did this on mine and whenever I need to change the depth of the cutter or something I have to make sure that I mark the table so that I can reposition the fence to exactly the same position as before.

You may also want to have a look at American Woodwork March 2003 which as a great design for a table plus many extras to make for it.

**tony2096** · 8th June 2004, 01:22 AM

Midge - thanks for the ideas (am contemplating my own router table so am intrigued).

Some questions...
1. Can you explain this a bit more: "Bolts have wing nuts threaded on them for ease of use, and tap straight into the MDF Table."? I can't see them appearing through the top of the router table so do the bolts that attach the flange to the bench just screew into the MDF? Does this remain secure with frequent unscrewing?

2. Do you have to unscrew the router much? You say you can change bits from above...how easy/awkward is this?

3. How fiddly is getting the plunge depth to the setting you desire? I have a very basic Ryobi router with no special depth screws - you just have to push the plunge mechanism and lock it in place and see if you've got it right, then repeat until you get bored.

**bitingmidge** · 8th June 2004, 08:26 AM

Tony,

1) The table top is actually 2 pieces of 12mm melamine faced MDF, laminated together (That's how it was when I found it at the tip

) I drilled and tapped straight into the MDF (25mm deep) using one of the bolts with a couple of grooves filed in it as a tap. I dribbled a bit of varnish down the holes (because it was handy) to give them a bit of a seal, soaped the threads of the bolts, and have done nothing since. I thought that they'd do for a bit, then I might have to use threaded inserts, but they are fine.

It has probably been removed a hundred times in it's life, with no noticable change in the threads. I can and do turn the table top upside down, so there is no load taken on the bolts until the top is secure....(Don't forget to bolt the router to the flange first or it will fall through the hole!)

2) There is enough room to raise the router to it's maximum "plunge" and get to the collett....just. Just is good enough though.

3) Depth setting is not at all fiddly, the router has a depth screw setting, so I just adjust the screw and lock it off. I have seen a couple of home made lift devices on the web that use car jacks that you could probably use to make life simpler. If you don't do anything it won't get easier!

Cheers,

P

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Fantastic Idea!!!

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