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5th January 2011, 03:01 AM #1
4" PVC pipe mismatch with commercial blast gates and flex hose
Hi,
I decided to take the plunge and purchase 4" PVC pipe and a variety of elbows (45s, 30s, 15s - no 90s, Ys)
However I have run into a snag. The 4" blast gates and flex host do not fit the 4" PVC. I also cannot get a tight fit onto the 4" connector on the dusty itself. The dust collector is a jet JET DC1200.
I imagine I could heat the PVC to mold it to fit tightly onto the blast gates and the dust collector itself. Is this what others have done? My concern is that because the fittings seem to have a ID that is less than 4" I am losing precious airspace.
If I wanted to make my own blast gates out of 4" PVC, melamine and hardboard, how would I attach the flex hose, which will not slip over the top of the PVC. See here
I purchased the PVC from bunnings - I know its dearer, but I could not get 6 metre lengths into my station wagon and I don't have a tow bar or roof rack And it worked out to be only a few dollars more expensive. The PVC looks pretty thick stuff, do others have success getting the flex hose to fit onto the PVC direct, or do you use the commercial blast gates and heat the PVC to reduce its ID around the blast gate, so that you can use the hose clamps to clamp the flex to the other side of the blast gate.
I have searched on the forums and not found anything useful, but I find the search a little frustating to use as well, so who knows.
Side note: I know that 6" would have been better, but 4" is all I can afford and I don't have much to run.
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5th January 2011 03:01 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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5th January 2011, 05:19 AM #2GOLD MEMBER
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Are you sure you got 100mm and not 90mm? - my local Bunnies mixes the two up all the time. Also 100mm is less than 4" by roughly 3mm(1/8").
I though 100mm nominal pipe was just a bit bigger than 4" fittings anyway, and you had to wrap the fitting with dust tape to get it to fit - then again it may be the other way round, you put the pipe inside the fitting & use tape to build it up.
From this you may gather that I have looked at rigid pipe but have only bought a variety of flexible tube to go with the box of assorted fittings I am collecting
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5th January 2011, 07:31 AM #3
Re: 4" PVC pipe mismatch with commercial blast gates and flex hose
Originally Posted by bsrlee
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5th January 2011, 09:04 AM #4
Check out this thread for some options https://www.woodworkforums.com/f11/co...-solved-28127/
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5th January 2011, 09:26 AM #5
After finding this link earlier last year, I visited my local Tradelink store armed with the required codes and was informed that they are no longer available. after investigation I was told that it was something to do with changes in Qld plumbing requirements.
I may try another store soon and see what response I get.Russell (aka Mulgabill)
"It is as it is"
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5th January 2011, 10:15 AM #6Senior Member
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100mm pvc is a 'close enough' fit to a blast gate. The fittings (elbows, joiners, etc) are too big. To connect a blast gate to rigid pipe I held the two parts together and drilled a small hole through the pipe into the lip of the gate. I then put a small self taping screw to hold them whilst I ran a bead of latex gap sealer around the join. Once dry it was a perfect air tight fit.
To get a perfect flush fit between gate and pipe, you can't use the cheap plastic gates and pvc pipe. That becomes more the realm of metal ducting and gates. Ergo instead of $5/fitting you are then paying about $80/fitting... for the minimal resistance imposed by using pvc coupled to the cheaper plastic gates vs little/no resistance of a specialised metal system at around a months salary its not too hard a decision! lol
As for the flex hose, that fits quite nicely inside the larger diameter of the elbows/joiners. Just jam it in about 30mm or so the wrap the join with duct tape. So basically all you ned at the end of a pipe run is either an elbow or a straight joiner and your flex hose will fit right in.
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5th January 2011, 10:40 AM #7
Re: 4" PVC pipe mismatch with commercial blast gates and flex hose
Originally Posted by socratous
Thanks heaps
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5th January 2011, 10:56 AM #8.
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I do a similar thing except I just use gaffer tape instead of the sealer. One of the reasons for this is it makes it easier to dismantle and clean the blast gate slots.
To make things even easier I have removed the stops from some of the blast gate doors so that I can remove them completely so that I can slide a thin strip of ally into the slots to clean them in situ.
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5th January 2011, 11:02 AM #9GOLD MEMBER
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5th January 2011, 01:07 PM #10GOLD MEMBER
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I have used 100mm PVC in a similar way to Socratus and BobL.
I have a about a 6 metre run of 100mm PVC with 45 degree outlet elbows down the side of my garage and then use a short length of flexible hose to bandsaw, thicknesser, etc. by putting an end cap over the elbows not in use and shifting the hose where needed.Tom
"It's good enough" is low aim
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5th January 2011, 04:43 PM #11
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6th January 2011, 07:47 AM #12SENIOR MEMBER
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Take you fittings down to Tradelink and check, they have a black gas pipe that is a snug fit. I can't remember the part number but it was expensive.
Ross
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13th January 2011, 02:10 AM #13
Hi Pell, I have heated up my 100DWV (sewer pipe) using the hot air gun, from memory its 115mm OD and the fittings are right on 120mm OD which are good for me as this goes nicely into 120mm blast gates, but not what u want
I have expanded and contracted it, say 50mm in length to suit whatever I was doing
I'll take some pics tomorrow if I remember for further explanation, don't hit me if i forget tho
I have also taken a slice out the side of a short piece to make a reducer, from memory cut ~6mm and it will go inside and if u put it over the outside u have a gap of about 12mm which u can fill will a slice or silastic or not
Pete
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13th January 2011, 11:41 PM #14
pics of reducing expanding 100DWV
Here's a few pics of some fittings I made to suit 100mm hose.
I heat the pipe with a hot air gun and I either expand or contract the pipe by pushing it over or into a form, the forms are made from the same pipe.
Some suitable turned wood to suit would be better as the forms themselves can deform with the heat. The heating takes a minute or two, I rotate the pipe while heating to a uniform heat until the pipe is flexible but not too floppy, I use welding gloves to protect my hands then I push the soft pipe either over or into the form, I then cool with cold water, the reducing process is probably the trickiest because the pipe can tend to pucker espcially if too hot.
Heat increasing form with a reinforcing piece inside.... heat reducing form, note the lead in on the top edge
Attachment 158655Attachment 158656
A 100mm hose tail and a joiner, (I expanded both ends) note the heat bubbles from just a little too much heat
Attachment 158657Attachment 158658
I have also split a short piece and pushed it inside another short piece to form a hose tail
Attachment 158659Attachment 158660
And a peach/beetroot/??? tin fits nicely inside 100mm hose, add some foam rubber to make it to 120mm, also a vac hose to 120mm if push comes to shove
Attachment 158662Attachment 158661
This 32mm size pipe I reduced down to suit the drop saw, heat up and shoved it into the outlet and a short piece of copper to suit the vac hose
Attachment 158663
I hope this helps
Pete
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14th January 2011, 12:01 AM #15Senior Member
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Adapters
Hello
I have been following this thread.
Bob I also have bought around 20 adapters, they are common in WA as earthen ware pipes were very common and still exist in older areas. If anyone needs some I can check with the local Tradelink and order some and send them on if that is of any help.
Cheers Gerry
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