Thread: A clang and then the dust extractor died.

Mark,

How is your impeller attached the shaft?

The CT 2042 has a slot in the shaft and a simple bolt. Is yours smooth and requires a pulley push?



~20mm

Looks much the same as yours. Are you sure that is 20mm and not 19.05 mm (aka 3/4 of one inch)? That seems an odd number unless it was made by the only real metric manufacturer in China/Taiwan! Also check the inside diameter of the impeller.

Originally Posted by markharrison

Looks much the same as yours. Are you sure that is 20mm and not 19.05 mm (aka 3/4 of one inch)? That seems an odd number unless it was made by the only real metric manufacturer in China/Taiwan! Also check the inside diameter of the impeller.

My DC-3 from H&F died almost at the same time, the motor (2hp) is crapped out.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f200/s...2/#post1243357

Having taken the whole thing apart, the shaft on my motor is also 20mm. H&F has no motors until late January and at $250 for a new motor and $319 for a whole new unit it hardly seems worth it to replace the motor Plenty of new 2hp motors around from $145, but they all have 24mm shafts, an even "odder" size.

Originally Posted by BozInOz

The case is split at the top. It'll be tricky to fit it without taking the whole thing about apart. The top section is flattened. I'll bash that back and then try to pop it back in place. I'll seal the inside with silicone or epoxy.

I wouldn't bother with the silicone inside. It'd all end up being "sand-blasted" away eventually anyway.

Just pop that bulge back into shape and perhaps use a heavy g-clamp to pull the gap closed, if needed. A couple of spot welds (perhaps a bead) and call it done.

Then remount the impeller and check for clearance... maybe a few judicious whacks with a good hammer will be required for "fine tweaking."

I've just had another thought and I wish I had it three months ago (Doh!). The hub of the impeller may be swappable. The hub is only held on by those four studs and some paint. I'd bet they are the same pattern as mine.

Cut around where the paint attaches around the joins of the two studs so you don't mess this up and remove two opposite studs. Measure and calculate the centres between the studs and the hole inner diameter. I will do the same.

Originally Posted by BozInOz

The case is split at the top. It'll be tricky to fit it without taking the whole thing about apart. The top section is flattened. I'll bash that back and then try to pop it back in place. I'll seal the inside with silicone or epoxy.

I would try using that ribbon that you knead together to repair fuel tanks.

Just measured the shaft on my motor is 20mm.

The good news; Carbatec has replacement impellors and housing readily available (well they did 2 months ago when I was looking at using them to build a cyclone).

The bad news; the afformentioned parts for the CT2042 are about 60% more than the same parts for the FM300!!! I think the impellor was around the $85ish mark and the housing came in at $170 from memory. Hence why I just bought the entire unit instead of the parts.

With the case removed I was able 'subtly' repair it. The top section had a series of spot welds which I split and then drilled out the bottom. This allowed the section to be moved. I then used a f clamp and a hammer to bash it back into place. Actually worked rather well. Now I just have to repair the weld and seal the join.

(Not being a metal worker, pardon any ignorance). I don't have welding gear but was getting some soldering gear for another project. Can I pop-rivet where the spot welds were and then solder the joint inside and out. I would remove the paint with flux/heat.

Look forward to your advice.

No, end of story. Pop rivets that are in hardware stores are alloy and will fatigue and solder is basically flexible and will if allowed to move break. They are welded for a reason, it is cheap and it does not break. Imagine if you will the result of getting the vane damaged in the same manner and the vane was held on by pop rivets and solder. BTW you can get steel pop rivets but they are not generally available, a specialist fasteners supplier such as Coventry fasteners would help here.

Carbatec are in negotiations with Taiwan to order a replacement impeller.

However, after reviewing the photos, they advised me to try to bash it back to shape...

I've been to Newcastle High Tensile Bolt Company ome Page and picked up some steel head steal rod rivets... will attempt a rivet, solder and repaint next week.

Unfortunately Boz...most of the advice being offered is of beam. From pic 2 in post 24 above the two halves appear to be joined by a Standing Seam.JPG
if you have sprung this back into alignment just crimp with a metalworking vise if you have one or failing that a hammer and flat ended punch against something substantial such as a piece of heavy metal held vertically in a vice.

I assume you drilled the spot welds from the area adjacent to your thumb... if so, grind the area clean and find a mate with a Mig or welding shop and get them to re-tack.

The pic of the impeller looks like it is dished....if so make a spacer for the underside and then bolt the complete assembly to a bench. Use some threaded rod will be easiest.

Cut a section of 50x50 hardwood on a bandsaw if you have one or even a hacksaw to match the radius as closely as possible. Using a metal working 'G' Clamp, clamp the blocks, one on each side of the bent vane as close to the original bend as possible and straighten using the leverage of the clamp...moving the blocks downwards as you come close to 90 deg. You may have to reposition the blocks several times to keep the vane flat because you will most likely not have enough room to flatten with a hammer.

Cheers

John M

Dusty got it's first test today with some jointing/thickness planning.

The fix is in the end rather primitive, but it works. I attempted solder and blind rivets, but didn't have much success. In the end I used epoxy and glued it back together. (Similar to the auto industry fuel tank patch which someone suggested earlier. A new paint job to neaten things up. With the case fixed I similar bashed the impeller back into shape, using a hammer and an eyeball. I don't have a photo but I was able to get a reasonable angle, just slightly straigher than the others.

Carbatec are still looking for a replacement part.

Glad to hear that your dusty is back in operation.