Thread: A clang and then the dust extractor died.

If only you had kept the 1HP as a backup. It's going great by the way.
The impellor looks like mild steel so it should bend back ok. Might be better to remove the impellor from the shaft before you start panel beating.
The case may need to be welded. Hard to tell from the photo.

Ouch. Makes me think I should put my pre-separator back inline.

I wish had some some good news for you. I had a very similar incident with my Jet DC-1200C only it was a piece of metal (ahem, an arbor flange washer) that caused the damage. You will not be able to repair that impeller (safely) and finding a new impeller as a part may not be easy.

The forces at work on the impeller and shaft are surprisingly high. Do not attempt to repair it. Seriously, do not do it unless you know exactly what you are doing. I don't so I didn't.

I tried the dealer, other similar vendors and finally Jet. They were able to get the original parts.

The problem (for me) was that the design had changed in the four years I owned it. Jet had gone from a 3/4" motor shaft to a 1" shaft. Jet had to special order the parts for me from Taiwan.

Given that you only bought this recently you might find it easier than I did.

If this is a 12" outer diameter impeller with a 1" shaft you will be able to order the part from Jet and it will be ex-stock.

The impeller housing can be repaired with epoxy (after a little judicious panel beating) to hold it together. The housing will be fine with this sort of repair.

To remove the impeller, you will need a puller of some kind. A steering wheel puller will probably work okay but I had a gear puller so it was a simple job. Don't waste your time trying to save money. A four inch gear puller costs around $35 from Super-Cheap. A steering wheel puller much less but having one of these tools will pay for itself the first time you use it.

The impeller looks like mild steel.

Bend it back to shape and it'll be fine. Mild steel is not particularly notch sensitive (in fact it is regarded as notch insensitive) so it's not going to fall apart, especially with the sort of speed an air impeller runs at (around 3,500 rpm).

Just make sure the rivets that hold it to the plate haven't loosened up - some hefty walloping with a hammer will tighten them up if they have.

Thanks for the feedback. I'm not sure if I'll have time to fix it till after christmas.

My plan will be to remove all the hosing and front panel for a closer look. Esp. for other damage.

I'll remove the affected blade and see if I can bash it back into shape to match the others. Using a metal vise, vise grips, and a hammer.

The case I'll need to bent a little to get it to pop back into place. I was thinking of using epoxy of the cloth tape used to seal air ducting work on the inside.

Should be fixable. Just a hassle.

Of course I'll have to be careful of the balance. I won't be changing the mass. hmmm.

All else fails I'll call carbatec with thier excellent customer service and ask for replacement parts.

Originally Posted by BozInOz

Thanks for the feedback. I'm not sure if I'll have time to fix it till after christmas.

My plan will be to remove all the hosing and front panel for a closer look. Esp. for other damage.

I'll remove the affected blade and see if I can bash it back into shape to match the others. Using a metal vise, vise grips, and a hammer.

The case I'll need to bent a little to get it to pop back into place. I was thinking of using epoxy of the cloth tape used to seal air ducting work on the inside.

Should be fixable. Just a hassle.

Of course I'll have to be careful of the balance. I won't be changing the mass. hmmm.

All else fails I'll call carbatec with thier excellent customer service and ask for replacement parts.

No balance issue to worry about as the rotating mass has not changed. When you bend it back bend the whole thing at once, don't grab the end of the vane with a pair of vice grips for instance all you will do is deform what is now one bend only. A bit of heat would not go amiss either, not red hot but bloody hot all the same just verging on red. Seriously, it is not a cast item but sheet steel and you can't really do any life threatening damage to it.

I can tell you now that parts from Carbatec for this item would be special order.

In my case there is a mass difference as I took metal out because a metal object went in. It is not much out of balance but enough that it would eventually frag the bearings if not replaced.

My carbatec 2hp dusty has an intake screen on it so nothing bigger than about 30mm diameter can get into the impellor. Clogs up with shavings from the thicknesser sometimes though.

I got a closer look today. The impeller was simply held in with a single bolt, so was removed easily. There are two blades affected. The steel is painted and about 5mm thick. I tried to bend it by hand without a budge. Unfortunately the blade is studded on so I won't be able to remove it. (I thought it was simply bolted). A bit of heat may be helpful.







The case is split at the top. It'll be tricky to fit it without taking the whole thing about apart. The top section is flattened. I'll bash that back and then try to pop it back in place. I'll seal the inside with silicone or epoxy.

Have you got an oxy torch? Maybe some heat might enable you to bend it back into place.

Originally Posted by Mini

No balance issue to worry about as the rotating mass has not changed.

It's not just the mass that is important, the distribution of the mass is just as important. If the vanes are not realigned as accurately as possible the impeller will not be balance and the thing could shake itself to bits.

If you find it difficult to bend them back into a decent shape I would take the most bent vane off as well as the opposite one (just grind or drill the rivets out). Then I would beat the bent vane back to shape and having it off the impeller base will make it much easier to to this. Having the opposite vane off the base will make it easier to compare the bent one to a correctly shaped vane. Then rivet them back on - it doesn't matter if the rivets differ in mass from those used on other vanes as long as the opposite sides are the same mass and mass placement.

Originally Posted by BobL

It's not just the mass that is important, the distribution of the mass is just as important. If the vanes are not realigned as accurately as possible the impeller will not be balance and the thing could shake itself to bits.

I agree. See those little round divets in the base of the impeller in photo 1. Those are for balancing.

I took delivery of my new impeller from Gregory Machinery on Saturday. Total cost was $55. I also bought a new housing because mine was a lot worse than this one. Cost, $55.

It's not worth screwing around with for that sort of money. It might end up costing you a whole lot more.

Measure the shaft and order a new one. If it is a 3/4" shaft the Jet part number is "AB411059 to suit a DC-1200A". The 1" shaft is just AB411059. The 1" shaft part is a stock item. The 3/4" part would have to be ordered unless Jet ordered a few when they ordered mine. Yeah, the parts numbering is naff!

I'm all for repairing things but this is one thing I wouldn't mess with.

i fired off an email to carbatec this morning asking for a price on the replacement parts. lets see if the carbatec lives up to it's famous service.

I'm pretty sure they don't because I asked them the same question a couple of months ago. I wouldn't hold it against them if they don't because I also asked Hare and Forbes and a couple of other vendors if they could supply me with compatible parts. They all said the same thing: No.