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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
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    Brisbane, Qld
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    Default Cutting 150mm PVC

    Hi folks,

    Hoping to start assembling some 150mm ducting on the weekend - anyone have any tips on good ways to make cuts in 150mm stormwater pipe?

    Cheers,

    Danny

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
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    Sunbury, Vic
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    84
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    2,718

    Default

    I have never cut 150mm but have cut 90 and 100mm with a hacksaw and then run a file round the inside and outside of the pipe to remove the rough edges
    Tom

    "It's good enough" is low aim

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    gippsland
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    815

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    I knocked up an over sized mitre box(just the square cut) and clean up with a deburring tool

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Caroline Springs, VIC
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    1,645

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    for the shorter lengths less than 3600, i just cut them on the panel saw. set the blade to be fairly low (20mm high or so), set a length stop, and then feed the pipe into the blade enough so it cuts all the way through the wall of the pipe. roll it so it cuts the full circumference. make sure when you are rolling, you are feeding into the saw in the correct direction. if you climb cut it it will spin out of your hands, BANG! and you will probably have a smelly deposit left in your pants.

    for longer lengths, i just mark a line all the way around the pipe and cut it with one of those cheap $10 handsaws with the hardened teeth.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
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    Brisbane, Qld
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    Default

    Thanks folks. My main saw is a bandsaw which definitely won't work, so I think a quick and nasty mitre box and a handsaw (or maybe the cordless reciprocating if blade length/vibration isn't a problem) will be what I end up with.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Pambula
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    58
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    12,779

    Default

    mark a line all the way around the pipe and cut it with one of those cheap $10 handsaws with the hardened teeth
    That's how I do it. I wrap a bit of paper tightly around the pipe so that the overlapping edges are aligned and line it up with the mark, then draw a line around using the edge of the paper as a guide.

    Cutting on a power saw can be done but things can go wrong with a bang. DAMHIK.
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Willunga, Australia
    Posts
    735

    Default

    In order of preference

    1. Drop saw going slow and careful
    2. Hacksaw
    3. Rolling across a low blade on the table saw with the blade set about 1/2" up
    4. Panel saw


    I suggest you don't use a reciprocating saw unless you want to end up with a pile of PVC randomly shaped pieces.

    I have used all of the above with success. The drop saw using a multi purpose or cross cut blade gives a nice smooth square edge and is by far my preferred method. I have never bothered with a mitre box when cutting by hand.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,794

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rtyuiop View Post
    Thanks folks. My main saw is a bandsaw which definitely won't work, - - - - - .
    Thats what I use.

    If you want to fit PVC properly to PVC fittings the pipe should be cut as square as possible.
    If the pieces are too long I roughly cut a cm or so over length with either a high TPI point handsaw or hacksaw and then I use the bandsaw to cut it square.
    Shorter pieces up to 1m long I deal with myself - longer than that you will need a hand.
    A bandsaw leaves a very clean cut compared to most other saws.

    For pieces shorter than the bed of my mini lathe I have a 4 and 6" expanding jaw chuck and tailstock support that can hold PVC.
    I use this to taper turn the outer edges of short pieces to give a better fit t
    I also use this to part short pieces like joiners for 45º elbows
    The jaws will also hold these joiners so the inner edges can be rounded over for minimal resistance.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

    Default

    In order of preference these are what I use

    SCMS
    Bandsaw
    Handsaw

    Using a bandsaw is a bit tricky as it can roll and pull into the blade and one bent blade can be the result so slow and steady is the answer.
    CHRIS

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    inverloch
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    472

    Default

    I used both a hand saw and a jig saw with metal cutting blade. Both worked well.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Albury
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    Quote Originally Posted by silentC View Post
    That's how I do it. I wrap a bit of paper tightly around the pipe so that the overlapping edges are aligned and line it up with the mark, then draw a line around using the edge of the paper as a guide.
    I've always used a sharp hard point crosscut saw, works great. A stainless steel 'curly girl' scouring pad cleans up the edges a treat, fast too!

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Tip: Smear a small amount of vaseline onto the joints - it makes it a lot easier to take apart if you ever have to - and you know it will happen sooner or later:

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Brisbane, Qld
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    942

    Default

    Just to feed back my own results in case it's useful for anyone else - my preference is mitre saw followed by hand saw. Only two annoyance with the mitre saw - my 12" SCMS still needs at least two separate cuts to get through 150mm pipe, and more importantly... It makes one hell of a mess!

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Saskatoon, SK, Canada.
    Posts
    1,439

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    Quote Originally Posted by rtyuiop View Post
    ......... and more importantly... It makes one hell of a mess!
    Is there an irony in that we need dust collection to make a dust collection system?

    Pete

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Townsville, Tropical North Qld.
    Age
    76
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    Default

    Hey Danny,
    I made up a jig for the band saw to cut my 150mm pvc. Just a piece of ply set to run in the mitre track with a piece of 2" wide scrap on top set at right angle to the blade with a 90 degree V notch for the pvc to sit in. 2 second cuts, all you need to do is make sure you hold the pvc firmly in the jig so it doesn't roll during the cut.
    Hope this helps,
    Cheers, Ian
    "The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot.. it can't be done.
    If you deal with the lowest bidder it is well to add something for the risk you run.
    And if you do that, you will have enough to pay for something better"

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