Thread: Ducting Layout

Based on what you posted it seems OK but a picture would really help even if it is a paper based sketch you photograph.
For under floor ducting make sure you put all the ducting curves/bends completely under the floor so that it comes out straight. That means the bend does not take up space above the floor and you can terminate unused vents easily flush at floor level and turn above floor ducting either way if you have to.

Under floor is good IF you can guarantee that the machines will never move and as a rule most find that nearly impossible. If you do it make sure that you install clearout fittings at each end of the duct under the floor and that you have access to those clearouts. With a Max it is highly unlikely you will ever need them but you never know.

Thanks Bob and Chris.

ducting.jpgBob, I've attached (I hope!) a draft plan of the workshop showing the ducting I have in mind and provisional locations of some of the major tools.

I take your point Chris about changes, but since there'll be a central overhead main, I can't be worse off than not having sub-floor at all. There'll be a clean out at each end of each subfloor length.

Looks OK to me.

If you are not worried about external looks you don't have to go subfloor on the LHS of the shed, you could go external low wall on that side but you will have to run a loop under the door way. RHS is not so easy with the wider door plus it will encroach on your timber storage space.

Thanks Bob. The shed will have masonry walls, so I think under the slab is the logical way, rather than trying to punch 160mm holes through a brick wall. As I see it, the excavator can run two trenches in the shed base (to allow pipe curve up through the concrete), and I just need to lay two lengths before the concreter does the reinforcing.

Mark

Originally Posted by markkr

Thanks Bob. The shed will have masonry walls, so I think under the slab is the logical way, rather than trying to punch 160mm holes through a brick wall. As I see it, the excavator can run two trenches in the shed base (to allow pipe curve up through the concrete), and I just need to lay two lengths before the concreter does the reinforcing.
Mark

Just thinking about machine position, based on your layout seems to me you have spread everything out, Is it possible to position all machines all on the one side of the shed? closest to the CV, I know there is a certain amount of operational space required for each machine but it would use less pipe/fittings.


Pete

A fair point Pete, and thanks for raising it. My reasoning is as follows:

The saw slider is 2800mm, so ~6m of 'wall length' is needed. It can run past the eastern door at full extent, since I won't need access while cutting.

Planer/thicknesser tables are 1m each, with 500mm extensions when needed, so another 3m needed there. Given width of saw, counting table and outrigger, is ~3.2m and I need room to get stuff in and out the south door, it seems logical to have P/T against the opposite wall.

That leaves currently router table (home-made 800mm wide), drill press (home-made table 600mm wide) and bandsaw. At the moment, just about everything is on castors, but I'm tired of having to move one tool to get to another in my one-car garage, and one of the joys of the new setup will be no moving tools around! I want enough space between tools for longer workpieces.

I've done turning at school and during my boat building course, and though not doing any now, want to keep open the option of a lathe down the track.

So, as per Bill Pentz's recommendation, the 200mm overhead will run down the centre of the shed, with the ability to put a branch essentially anywhere, and probably doubling up some of the above to one branch.

As for the sub-floor, I think the above 'wall lengths' add up to access needed both sides. At this stage, the cost will just be a second length of 150mm pipe and a number of wyes, and the time for cutting and assembling it.

I think that's worth it for the extra flexibility later.

Mark

Mark,

Not sure you still plan on having a sub floor line but if you are why not keep the trench open with some grate or removable cover. Should allow more flexibility.

Just an idea.

G

Gareth, thanks for contributing to the discussion. It all helps clarify my thoughts, which of course is the point of the exercise.

As I see it, having the trench open gives rise to two possible situations, bearing in mind the trench needs to be ~400mm deep, to allow the 3 to 1 diameter turn for 90⁰. Either the trench is unlined, in which case waterproofing fails, or it is lined. I assume the latter would cost a fair bit for the significantly more complex reinforcing and boxing, as well as a fiddly pour.

With three planned wyes each side, ~2-3m apart, I'd only need at most little over 1m of flexy to any given tool, so hopefully reasonably minimal static pressure or flow losses. I assume that my current plan is the equivalent of a bathroom floor slab, just with a number of toilet-outflow equivalent through fittings.

We're meeting the builder on Tuesday for the final discussion (and signing contract) before build starts. This is question #3 on my list of 13 things to get sorted!

Mark

The builder will prolly want to do the shed first so he can use it!

"Mate, when is that machinery going to be here? I really need your thicky"

He can't have it Brett.

I'll be needing it to build the kitchen cabinets and the vanities.

And there's no structural timber in the build.