Thread: Dust Collection Install - WIP

Thanks Tony, I was thinking along the same lines of testing the noise before going down the route of some sort of baffle. I think I will build the enclosure with a plain vented outlet and see how noisy it all is. I will put the vent on the end where it is in a bit of no-mans land between the three houses so maybe, like you, it won't be such an issue.

Just to follow on from that, I built mine on a a base cross braced 50mm thick treated pine sleepers, a treated pine frame was built onto the heavy pine floor, frame has a ton of pine bracing, idea was to stop drumming and low frequency resonances in the enclose, something to be mindful of. I clad it in heavy fibre cement sheeting, glued and screwed everywhere, the outer cladding extends down over the base edges. I sealed all joins with silicon as it was being assembled. Roof is also Fibre cement, not a drop of water has entered over the years and in some very nasty storms that we get up here.

The idea was to line the inside between all that pine frame bracing, however when tested with my 3 HP DC - the noise was:

Normal background noise was around 41 dB.

DC cabinet door open Noise @ 1m 87 dB. (Complete front of the enclose is one BIG door)

DC Door closed Noise @ 1m 62 dB.

Fence line @ 3m from DC cabinet 58 dB. (opposite side to the exhaust ports)

DC exhaust side of cabinet @ 5m is 60 dB, the fence line on that side of the cabinet is a further 11m away and the DC almost inaudible there.

Some of this noise with the cabinet closed is from the Intake port in the closed Woodwork shed. At 1m from the 6" intake port I read 87 dB, the total pipe length from the DC is 1.8m. Port intake wind noise travels out over the top of the roller door and is also transferred through the metal roller door. The DC is quite enough to use at night - I don't have a baffle just a big hole and a small length of square frame clad in fibre cement to keep the rain out. I'm about to move that exit port to the top edge of the cabinet and vent it above the shed roof line.

I's been up for a few years now and it still looks like new, it's painted same colour as the shed, looks really neat and just blends in against the shed.

Thanks for that, can I ask what thickness fibre cement sheeting you used? I was thinking of using fibre cement sheeting myself.

This is a link to my dB readings in a cheap Bunnings tin shed with no sound deadening.

Installing my Dusty - WIP

Originally Posted by heybluey

Thanks for that, can I ask what thickness fibre cement sheeting you used? I was thinking of using fibre cement sheeting myself.

Away at the moment and not able to measure - just standard wall cladding sheets - anyhow here is a photo taken before the lower exhaust port was installed, gives an idea of the construction.

I have an enclosure, well the start of an enclosure. Even with the rain today managed to get the enclosure up and running. Still have to get the doors made, flashings etc.


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FYI A few extra bits of info on my enclosure.

1: I found no Low frequency noise / vibration transfer from the DC to the metal shed from a solid 150mm PVC connection passing through the shed wall.

2: As noted before, there are some very low frequency resonances generated by a DC and these can vibrate or drone in a metal shed if the cabinet walls touch the shed.

There may be some extra resonances generated in that narrow pathway you have, however with a solid heavy cabinet it should be fine. I have around 3M clearance between my 9m x 6m shed and the house, there are no resonances apparent in that long path way, you can't hear the DC in the house, not even in the room closest to the DC, about 2.5m from the front of the DC.

3: The 3HP DC is on those typical castors that come with these things, it doesn't move in operation. The base of my cabinet sits on six 1m lengths of 100mm square steel tube, I drove them into the ground with a sledge hammer. The base (sleepers) are strapped down to these tubes and that obviously went some way towards isolating the cabinet and DC from low frequency hum. I went this way because I had no solid ground to mount the cabinet on, and being clay, I found from experience that this type of simple footing does NOT move with clay contraction / expansion. Best of luck with the install.

Looks Good HB,

Originally Posted by MandJ

1: I found no Low frequency noise / vibration transfer from the DC to the metal shed from a solid 150mm PVC connection passing through the shed wall.

If this worries HueyB, then just make the hole a bit bigger and stuff it with high density foam.

2: As noted before, there are some very low frequency resonances generated by a DC and these can vibrate or drone in a metal shed if the cabinet walls touch the shed.

Thats what I found as well.

3: The 3HP DC is on those typical castors that come with these things, it doesn't move in operation. The base of my cabinet sits on six 1m lengths of 100mm square steel tube, I drove them into the ground with a sledge hammer. The base (sleepers) are strapped down to these tubes and that obviously went some way towards isolating the cabinet and DC from low frequency hum. I went this way because I had no solid ground to mount the cabinet on, and being clay, I found from experience that this type of simple footing does NOT move with clay contraction / expansion. Best of luck with the install.

Sounds like a nice solid base.
My enclosure has no floor and slightly slopes away from the shed wall so rain doesn't get in under the walls.The DC itself sits directly on top of the brick paving. The enclosure stud walls sit on top of the 35 mm side of 70 x 35 mm galv patio tube which sit on the brick paving. With 32 mm melamine lining its pretty heavy and the enclosure us bolted to the outer shed wall.

Just to add to what BobL mentioned about through the wall 150 mm connections. I forgot to mention that the 150 mm connection through the cabinet is not touching the cabinet housing, I have rubber boot around the pipe and that isolates it from the cabinet - it's still a hard connection to the DC inlet though, and surprisingly, the DC intake connection does not have the same vibrating resonances as the cabinet, so noise transfer is not a problem "in my case" - but as BobL said, if there is a problem after isolating the ducting from the shed wall, you could also try isolating the through Cabinet connection. The only reason I'm bringing this up is that you have a very short run of pipe between the DC and the shed and in that narrow confined space you "might" need a bit extra isolation. Hopefully it won't be an issue at all.

Thanks for replying and providing your experiences. I plan on leaving a gap between the existing shed and the enclosure but I will probably be using a couple of L brackets to secure the enclosure to the shed. I also plan to use a couple more brackets to attach the enclosure to the concrete retaining wall on the opposite side of the enclosure. Obviously the flashing will also be attached between the shed and the enclosure. It may not be clear in the photos but the framed wall against the fence is clad in cement sheeting.
I'm hoping my attachment plan will minimise any vibrations being transferred to the shed.
Can I ask where you got the rubber boot you put around your pipe through the shed wall?


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Got it from plumbing section in Bunnings, one size fits all, you cut out the marked ring that matches your pipe.

Here is picture in the thread I started in 2013 for the workshop build, was still learning at that stage but got the cabinet right except for a big exhaust vent that added after the photos were taken. It's the red thing in the 1st post - has a timber frame around it to hold it in place. Makes it easy for me to remove the DC from the cabinet when needed.

Beginner attempt at DC - thanks to forum members

So I picked up quite a few large packing crates on the weekend that came with quite a large bit of packing foam. So I spent the weekend breaking down the packing boxes for various projects and I'm thinking of using the packing foam as insulation in the dusty enclosure, what do you think?

IMG_6385.jpgIMG_6386.jpg

Unless its high density it will need about half a meter's thickness to make much of a difference.

You have enough there to make a test cell to see if it does anything.

With the recent rain we've been getting in Perth I've just realised this looking at your photos that the neighbors shed doesn't look like there are any gutters on their roof which means under heavy rain you've effectively got a nice valley happening between the two sheds for water to pool.

Might be a good idea to install a soak well or install some kind of drainage solution on the side where water will flow from the cabinet roof