Thread: Dust Collection Install - WIP

I'd be a bit wary of using those chinese remotes on higher powered motors.

The the eBay blurb says its rated at 15A, and the 30A is a max or peak load.
AC 220V 240V 30A Relay Wireless RF Remote Control Switch Transmitter Receiver | eBay

OTOH the spec sheet for the relay says the 30A is for a purely resistive load, but it only recommends using on no more than 2HP motors at 240V and 1HP motors at 120V.
I believe it is is a Form A relay.

Screen Shot 2017-09-04 at 10.36.59 am.png


The spec sheet is also at odds with what it says on the picture of the relay provided in eBay.

Screen Shot 2017-09-04 at 10.23.58 am.jpg

These solid state relays really do not like going above their maximum rating even for a short period.

The 15A continuous rating on the eBay relay probably assumes the motor starts off under no load but DC motors start off at full load so even though they might only draw 7 A continuously it might well go over 30A on start up.

I had one of these 30A SS relays on my Compressor control circuit and at lasted for about a dozen starts before going up in smoke.

That remote I am using is running a one bag dusty. Been in use for a good while now and had lots of start-ups. Time will tell, but I could use it as a controller for a larger relay. Electrical stuff is not a problem for me to work on.

Hooroo.

Originally Posted by heybluey

Yeah it's not really the solution I wanted but I'm assuming I'll void the warranty going down that route? Is there a solution where I won't void the warranty?


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If you're remotely competent at wiring (and confident otherwise get a sparky) its a ten minute job to move the switch to another location. Just use all new wiring and keep the stock wiring somewhere safe in the event of a warranty issue then restore back to factory wiring. There isn't any stickers on the unit or seals that are void if removed/opened.

Also on a side note warranty issues shouldn't be rejected unless they can be directly proven to you modifying the DC, eg if the motor dies they need to prove that the re-wiring directly caused the issue, which if done properly shouldn't be an issue

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Hi everybody. Sorry for the lack of reply over the past few days.

I will look at another solution to the switching next time I have my electrician around to do some work. At the time he was reticent to do anything because of the warranty implications. Although I appreciate I am currently not getting the no-volt start protection with my current work-around I can live with that for now.

I would like to take this opportunity to thank everybody that has contributed to this discussion and offered advice to my dusty install over the past few months, it has been very useful and I wouldn't have been able to get it all in place without your comments and suggestions.

I have now tested my ducting and all seems to be working well including all the blast gates. I have connected my first machine (drill press)

I was pretty impressed with the performance, thanks BobL for making the bell-mouth hood, no dust present when I did some sanding using the drill press. I need to put a grate of some kind on the hood to catch small pieces of wood before they get sucked up. Next I'll be connecting up the belt and disk sander and mitre saw (I don't have the big machines yet but the ducting is in place ready to go).

I have also started lining my dusty shed, I've done the walls, just got to do the doors and ceiling. I also still have to seal some more gaps. However, a crude test yesterday with the door closed showed 75db, with the door open 87db (I'll do some more detailed testing later with measurements, etc). I used the db meter app on iPhone.

Another remaining job is to modify the inlet to the dusty, I've just got the 150mm pipe sitting over the inlet at the moment, I was planning on making an MDF disk with a bell mouth hood to attach to my ducting, is that the best approach?

Thanks again.


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Heybluey, where did you acquire the 160mm ID smooth pipe from?

Nothing I've ever seen fits nicely over 6" PVC.....

It came from Total Rubber here in Adelaide but I think the main warehouse is in Melbourne. It is Ductaflex 160mm id. I had to buy 10m at around $30/m. Not cheap but I wanted something that would slide easily over the pipe.


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Advanced Duct systems and Ezi-Duct do 160mm ID Flexi. I bought mine from Advanced.

So I've recently made some improvements to my mitre saw bench and now approaching the dust extraction. I have been recently looking at Chris Parks thread on the Bosch Glide Saw here for inspiration. I am thinking of going down the same line, however, I'm a bit confused how he split the 150 mm into three 100 mm pipes and where they went into the hood? Can anybody explain? Do they simply all go into the box at the top or do they extend all the way to the bottom where the dust is sucked up?

Originally Posted by heybluey

So I've recently made some improvements to my mitre saw bench and now approaching the dust extraction. I have been recently looking at Chris Parks thread on the Bosch Glide Saw here for inspiration. I am thinking of going down the same line, however, I'm a bit confused how he split the 150 mm into three 100 mm pipes and where they went into the hood? Can anybody explain? Do they simply all go into the box at the top or do they extend all the way to the bottom where the dust is sucked up?

Chris talked about using 3 x 100 mm ducts but in the end I think he went for a single 150?

Originally Posted by heybluey

So I've recently made some improvements to my mitre saw bench and now approaching the dust extraction. I have been recently looking at Chris Parks thread on the Bosch Glide Saw here for inspiration. I am thinking of going down the same line, however, I'm a bit confused how he split the 150 mm into three 100 mm pipes and where they went into the hood? Can anybody explain? Do they simply all go into the box at the top or do they extend all the way to the bottom where the dust is sucked up?

I've gone the three to one route similar to Chris' design, in terms of where the ducting terminates I have two 100mm on each side of the blade (as close as i can get to fence/blade without touching) and a hood directly above the blade where the original dust bag was. When sawing most of the dust is collected but a small does settle behind the mitre saw which i generally clean up after I'm done.

In terms of how I split the three into 150, I made a larger hood above the three 100mm ducts that has a 150mm in the centre which funnels the dust upwards. Attached is a basic drawing of what I've done
MItre Bench Dust.png

Originally Posted by tonzeyd

In terms of how I split the three into 150, I made a larger hood above the three 100mm ducts that has a 150mm in the centre which funnels the dust upwards. Attached is a basic drawing of what I've done

FWIW, connecting 3 x 100 mm into 1 x 150 mm using a simple box like arrangement is not the most efficient connection method.

The preferred method is supposedly something like the following with 30º 100mm ducts meeting into the 150 mm taper.
This is the one I now use on my BS
3-way-adapter.jpg

It is possible to make a 45º version from A 45º Y junction by adding on a piece of 100 mm ducting into the side of it and then using a 150 -> 100 mm reducer into the straight through section.
This one os now used on my Belt sander.
Modified-Y.jpg
Or as Chris Parks indicated in his post by splitting 2 , 45º Y's in half and retaining the side with the 100 mm inlets and gluing the two halves together, and again using a 150 -> 100 mm reducer.

Slightly more efficient again is supposed to be using 2 x (100 mm) 45º Y's , one following another, and then a reducer for the remaining 150 mm but this consumes a lot of space.

I would have tested all these out when I did a whole bunch of tests earlier this year but I didn't want to dismantle my ducting to get at these bits.

Agreed, but my roof height unfortunately dictated what I could do, so i tried to minimise the impact of this by giving it the shortest run in my shed. Plus whats the fun in getting it right first time?

Thanks Bob and Tony. I'm thinking of implementing something similar Tony just got to work it around the cabinetry that is already there. I'll work something up and send a photo through.